Very cool.
Thanks guys...

 

This is my 5th event-finally going solo-getting my check ride in the
warm-up session-was supposed to last time but my brakes failed by
lunchtime and i did not have any spare pads so i went home early.

definately absorb as much info from your instructor as you can-get to
know the line of the track, and be sure to hit all of your apexes and
you should be fine-especially if you have prior track experience.

I got a head start by going 6 events as a co-pilot with my friend prior
to driving myself, i was able to get a better feel of whats going on and
watching his mistakes and learning what not to do-he has been going
there since Chin started and i am almost as fast as him now with lap times
with similiarly prepared vehicles.

 

Do any of you guys running a square setup (275/40) all around run into VDC/TCS problems? I haven't pushed my car hard yet so I'm not sure how the car reacts with the system off. If the VDC is off do I have to worry about the VDC computer still reading the tires and turning the SLIP light on?

I am getting some NISMO LMGT4s 18x9.5 all around and want to run a square setup with the tires but all the posts in the wheels/tires forum about VDC problems scares me.

 

No, if the VDC is off you wont have any issues.

I never had any problems even with it on, but I ended up disabling it by unplugging the sensor in the center console. No more pushing buttons for me.

 

Even with VDC turned off, the brake-force-distribution is still working..and this will cook your brakes...usually one of the fronts...this happens when pushed HARD with the car in BIG SLIP angles...the inside brake will actuate in an attempt to straighten the car out....this is safer.... but slower .....and a sure brake cooker!

So do a "Yaw-rectomy" for track days..i.e., completely disconnect the yaw sensor for track days...this will kill the BFD and VDC completely and the car will be much happier,,so will the driver

 

Thanks for the responses guys! I know one of the drivers that races in the Speed GT World Challenge and he is going to sell me his practice tires for $75/each. He runs Toyo R888 275/35R18s on the front of his GTO. Said there is about 3/32 of tread left on most of them. Should be good track day tires to start out with.

 

Where is the yaw sensor located?

 

the Yaw sensor is located under the console, just behind the shifter.

Note 1: The airbag sensor is also under the console, but it is behind the E_brake lever...DO NOT "F" with that!!!!!!!!!

I recommend that you disconnect the battery, remove the console, then just unplug the wiring harness from the Yaw sensor..but leave the sensor itself mounted in the car....that way you can plug it in as needed (rain/snow/etc)

reconnect the battery when complete. I recommmend doing this ANYTIME you are messing with the electronics....prevents many problems.

I had all kinds of problems getting the connector to release. Maybe just me being spastic, but once I figured out how to get it to release...no problems. In fact I can mow just lift up the rear of the console, and reach my hand up under and plug or un-plug the the sensor in 5 min now...I don't even bolt my console down

Note 2: I did modify the yaw sensor connect retainer clips to allow quick removal. They kinda broke off when I forced the plug out

I gotta tell you, I was ready to sell my Grand Touring until I did this. This mod changed the car into a GREAT track car from just an "ok" track car. I am now running Time Trials and putting down some decent times for a old guy (55 yrs old) tracking his DD ...this is a big change from wanting to sell it

Search around the forum and you will find some detailed "how-to" for this.....

 

I don't have VDC, just TCS (Enthusiast model). Will this work for mine?

 

My total "GUESS" is NO....I don't think you would have a Yaw sensor if you don't have VDC.

We need more Folks to give input on this subject.....Anybody????

 

took your advice today and unplugged my yaw sensor, seems to be a big
difference-definately could tell when it was being intrusive even with the VDC
button off, after work today i unplugged it and removed my hfc's and installed test pipes-car feels like a different animal . only thing that surprised me was coming out of a corner real fast and having to make a hard/quick stop the front tires broke loose and slid about 5 feet-i thought
unplugging this did not defeat the ABS?

 

ABS should still work...mine does

I might feel much different, especially when turning and braking at the same time..

Question: Are only your Slip and VDC light are on now right? Not you ABS or Brake lights?

 

yeah, just those two lights are on, check engine light came on after test
pipes and now tpm light is on because i just put my track wheels on
-looks like a frickin christmas tree on my dash now! i have an auto-x event
tommorow morning to go to.

 

I am not completely sure if they are street legal. I am 99% positive they are but better safe then sorry. Also an additional question - Has anyone ever used them are they good for autoX and road course??? What about drag??

 

They have to be DOT approved to be street legal and that should be on the tire.

 

Those Hoosiers are street legal. I don't recommend it, but it's legal. R3S03s are an OLD tire (look at the 4-digit production date) - are they unused? I'd be surprised if they are not as hard as a rock. Anyway, they are NOT for autox, the "R" stands for Road. They have the same tire with an "A" designation, for autox. They are not a drag tire either.

 

The Hoosier DOT-R tires have a lighter carcass then most other DOT-R tires. They are a "street" tire in name only. I've raced on Hoosiers for at least 10 years and would NOT run them on the street. As said above, the R3S03 has been out of production since 2003 so your tires are about 5 years old. Even if the were stored properly (in sealed bags filled with Argon) they are no better then a good set of max performance street tires.

 

That and they have a single "rain grove". If there is any moisture on the surface, you may go for a ride.

The R6 is the latest verion of the tire.

 

Looking for some quick help related to the topic covered in this thread. I am sure my answer is in here somewhere but with all the wheel sizes and offsets bouncing around I'm a bit dizzy.

I've got a track event this Saturday that I wasn't planning to take the Z (06 Touring - no suspension/brake mods) and I want to pick a set of track wheels/tires. Since Edgeracing is in Miami (I'm in West Palm Beach) I plan to order from them TODAY so I can get the wheels in time.

My preference is to stay with a 17" wheel setup for all the normal reasons mentioned previously. I need help with the following.

I'm looking at 17x9 wheels to run a 275/40. I used to run that tire/wheel width all the time with my Trans Am but have noted here the preference to run 10" wheels with that tire size. Do you have a pervasive reason why I shouldn't run 275s on the 9" wheel?

Second, with my unmodified suspension what are you thoughts on wheel offset (this is where I get real confused)? My two favorite wheels are 22 and 27.

I am not fundamentally opposed to running a narrower tire to make things fit but currently edgeracing is out of stock on the 255 Toyo RA1s.

Thanks for your help.

 

You can run 275 on a 9" wide wheel, I've done it before and plenty of other people do.

I just wanted to get the most out of the tires contact patch.


Both of those offset's will fit fine. So that's your choice, but I would pick the 22.