Anybody have any stock OEM Z-car side mirrors for sale? I need some..any color works

 

Dumb question #27:

Any suggestions on how to "slow the throttle response" on my car?

I.e. is there any changes that can be made to the accelerator assembly/electronics to slow the action of the throttle? Less throttle opening at the beginning, progressively greater throttle opening later?

I know the driver needs more right-foot-tuning, but are there any tricks that will help while I learn this particulars cars characteristics?

BTW: I have seen electronic gizmos the do just the oppistie, they give modern drive-by-wire system QUICKER response early in the pedal travel. I have seen this advertised for late model BMWs.

 

IMO I'd give yourself a little time to tune the driver rather than chasing modifications.

I changed brake pads early this year and at first kept snatching brakes in the early sessions on the new pads. After a few track days I adapted and wouldn't go back.

I also ran about 4 rain days this year. By the end I didn't use the traction control to control throttle response. Rain days sure help to learn throttle control.

 

I agree with ya, just asking

 

We can retune the TB opening angle/rates to make it lazier if you. But I think it would better to just get used to it.

 

Ok Ok, I hate it when you guys are right

So I will try Road Atlanta in a couple of weeks, that will be my 3rd weekend in the car. If I still can't get power down out of the corners there, I will bring it in for a custom "Laze-tune"...something more progressive if possible.

However, I am not an Animal like and J...I can't handle that much power coming on with the slightest touch of the throttle..especially in mid-turn. I just want to get into the throttle early in the track-out phase of the corner...but just getting all kinds of snap-oversteer.

Sharif...did you guys change the throttle response any?

 

As part of our tuning process, we do change it slightly. But it only helps maintain full opening at WOT, without interference . The tip in response at part throttle is not touched.

After our convo at ZNats, have you checked into the alignment settings, or play in bushings/suspension arms? That car has always been fairly neutral, with a hint of rotational oversteer on corner entry but it was fast.

 

also, you can monitor TPS and see how the throttle is reacting and where it is coming on in the turn. You may have to change the technique used for the new car.

 

I weighed the car @ Roebling during a HPDE event and found the corner balance was off, and had it aligned and found some minor problems.
Gonna get it corner balanced with driver in car before RA if possible...but these are minor issues, not the root cause.

I have also inspect the front and rear suspension for bushing issues...found nothing.

I swapped rear shocks left to right..no change and shocks had no leaks or damage.

I also tested the 'break-away" of the Carbonetics LSD, and found no problems (equal break away forward and reverse and side-to-side was within normal specs per the factory tech support hot line)

So besides changing my line from a "momentum Line" to a "power line"...I will mount a fresh new set of Ho-ho R6s for Road Atlanta...and lower rear tire pressure 2 lbs. I ran 36 hot all around at CMP, so for RA I may be 36lbs hot front, 34 lbs hot rear...and then work from there.
Note: I had been running very old Ho-hos to date...all the goody is long-gone from them from a speed perspective

BTW: I had the shocks set to a fairly soft setting @ CMP since it is so dayum bumpy...I will dial in 1 or 2 click more firm for RA...again 2 clicks "firmer: in the front compared to the rear.

I Son was kidding me and suggested that I drive barefooted with only nomex socks until I get a better fell for the car...not a bad idea

Note to self;;;fix the driver and don't worry about the car

 

Have you toyed much with tire pressures for the R6s? I was running about the same as you hot for awhile, and a local Corvette (C4) guy suggested I lower them to about 28-29 hot, and my lap times improved. Let me know your take.

 

Yes, had the same advice from a fellow Z-car racer...and will try it at the next event

Question: did that change the handling of the car? If so how?

 

It only did when I got the rears 4-5psi lower than the front, which balanced out the track out oversteer. I used to run 275/40/17 R5s, and I'd run them for 7-8 events before flipping them. The R6s, at least at these pressures, do not last nearly as long. I may start to run V710s, as I ran nearly-identical lap times with them compared to R6s.