I wish you guys luck this year...due to a decision to spend some time and money on making my Volvo wagon a well running car and not selling my G35 it looks like I will have to wait and re-evaluate my interest in the series next year.

I'll continue to check in and see how everyone is doing and what changes develop...have fun and be safe!

 

Semi-cheater engine? I'm not sure if it matters much - or am missing something (n00b alert) - since we have HP limitations balanced with weight requirements.

 

Semi-cheater is my way of saying national level winners will have "special" engines..and that are "legal"...i.e. spend a bunch of money to get the last HP out of an engine...and good for them...but that cost more money than the fresh from the junkyard engine I run today.

Note: I can spend more money if I want to go faster for sure...but I don't plan to, the driver is still the primary impediment today.

 

I'd love some Ohlins and a OSG Diff on my G35 6MT sedan. mmm

 

OSG diff is awesome.

 

I have been informed a Spec Z rules update will be issued within 5-10 days....

And my "Bitchin'/feedback" that was based on all of you guys input was reviewed...and some items agreed too.

As stated before, the "Appendix A stuff stays the same...but other stuff does change or is clarified...

Details to follow...

 

Thanks for the update

 

Well done. Though I'm a little worried about what I'll (need?) to change/add now that my car is 100% compliant - mixed wheels and all. I will have a month until the next event at least to re-prep!

 

Thanks for the update. Good to hear

 

News flash: All Blue cars must run a 200 lb weight penalty...

Just kidding...


BFG R1 "Control manual" tire usage guide.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/asset...ne_2.26.07.pdf

 

Well , this BFG document sez you SHOULD heat Cycle the tires...the Jackson Motorsports guy told me that this wasn't required....

Heat Cycling
Heat cycling can benefit the BFGoodrich g-Force R1 by helping it perform more consistently
over periods of constant extended use. In addition, on-track heat cycling adds texture to the
smooth surface of your new R compound tires. The process is painless. Simply run a few laps
to get the tire up to operating temperature (160°F-220°F) and pressure, then allow the
tires to sit off the car for 24 hours. That’s it.

 

Can u advise if the wheel sizes have changed at all?
I hate to ask but was planning on buying them very soon...
Tks

 

MY BEST GUESS is that the wheel sizes will NOT CHANGE

So this is NOT official in any way...as no NASA official to date has suggested or implied that this would change...or any of the Appendix "A" requirements

So max 18x9 fronts and max 18x10 rears most likely continue IMHO .

However I am optimistic that the wheel weights and spacer rules will be modified...but this is not a done-deal for sure...it may just be wishful thinking on my part...

 

Does anyone have real race data from the bfg tire? I ran 38psi hot in the front and the car is under steering. Rear press is lower - about 34 hot (which is under rec range), but the rear felt planted. Turn-in understeer, and I have a good baseline w the car from last Friday on worn Hohos and nothing else changed besides the tires. They were sticker tho and the track was chilly. Still about 3s off pace from last week.

Did qual and race while continuing to toy with tire pressure. I'm an admitted tire snob; that said, these R1 tires are crap. The 2010 production date may be a factor.?.?

Diff update: inside tire now spins upon corner exit. I'll try to adjust the suspension to compensate, but it wasn't like this earlier today or last week.

John - great to chat yesterday. Thanks for the pep talk . :-)

 

I'd try them at 29 cold. My friend played around with them two weeks ago and they seem to like lower pressure. His are 2011 build dates though. You have the old compound.

 

I have seen several discussions on the BFG that say due to their asymetric design they react opposite of other tires to pressure changes. ( supposedly this design "produces" a negative camber while cornering so better for production type cars that can't adjust camber). To increase grip, they lower the pressure which would explain the understeer your experiencing based on your pressures. Just finished my suspension and brakes today so I haven't tried them yet personally. This link has the BFG info near the bottom. My experience is limited so lmk what you think

http://www.porschenet.com/bfgtires.html

 

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/asset...ne_2.26.07.pdf

This also has a understeer/oversteer tuning guide...

Vehicle Weight
(with driver)
Recommended Hot Pressure Probable Cold Pressure



1800-2200 lbs 34-36 + 27-32
2300-2600 lbs 35-37 + 28-33
2700-3000 lbs 36-42 + 28-33
over 3100 lbs 37-43 + 29-34

 

Someone's got jokes!

side note...I won me two HoHos this weekend in TTB.

Broke lap record, but another guy also broke it by slightly more than me

My buddy ran BFG's this weekend for the first time in ST-2 in his Z06. He was also having pressure issues. He said the tires came and went three times throughout the 40 minute race.

 

Congrats...

BTW: I have 2x brand stinkin new "sticker" Hoosier R6 in 275-40-17 FS ....somebody buy them...

 

$50 bucks?