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Oil Cooler - DIY or OTS?

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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Default Oil Cooler - DIY or OTS?

I've been thinking about getting an oil cooler. Just want to see which route might be a better option for me. Budget is around $200.

I know Mishimoto and CX Racing both have oil cooler kit for around that price (CX is actually cheaper than that), but I've seen ppl that built their own oil cooler kit for around the same price or a tad more.

So what are the pros and cons of going with a "lesser" brand OTS kit versus a DIY kit?

Found some used Setrab coolers on eBay for like $75

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:20 AM
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if you buy a used one make sure you flush it really really really good
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:35 AM
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Hey Andy,

I would go with RPW kits. They're fairly cheap, but I think you'd have to fabricate your own mounting.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c.../OilCoolerKits
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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So what are the pros and cons of going with a "lesser" brand OTS kit versus a DIY kit?
Efficiency of the cooler and the oil pressure drop. If you buy a used Setrab make sure you get the adapter fittings and, as mentioned above, flush it out with a solvent first, then hot almost boiling water, and then more solvent. Blow it out with air after the flushing is done.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Voboy
Hey Andy,

I would go with RPW kits. They're fairly cheap, but I think you'd have to fabricate your own mounting.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c.../OilCoolerKits
Tim,

Is that what you have? I saw your oil cooler when we met @HP dyno, but forgot to ask what kit it is.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by betamotorsports
Efficiency of the cooler and the oil pressure drop. If you buy a used Setrab make sure you get the adapter fittings and, as mentioned above, flush it out with a solvent first, then hot almost boiling water, and then more solvent. Blow it out with air after the flushing is done.
Thanks! I'll definitely do that if I decide to go that route.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cyc5181
Tim,

Is that what you have? I saw your oil cooler when we met @HP dyno, but forgot to ask what kit it is.
I have the Mishimoto, and it's OK. I got it before I saw RPW's kit. The Mishimoto doesn't have a thermostat, the lines are assembled with fittings and they're pretty long for our cars (at least when mounting on the passenger side near the bumper). I didn't want to mess with them, so I ran them long. I still had to come with my own way to mount them. It works, but not sure how well, because I haven't logged temperatures (Haven't gotten around to installing the temp gauge and not ideal to bring a laptop to the track to monitor with Cipher). I removed the oil-to-water cooler/heater and haven't gotten into limp mode with 20-25 minute sessions with a 7600RPM redline FWIW. No leaks on the lines or core.

I just like RPW's kit because you can assemble the lines yourself and shorten as necessary and the option with thermostat sandwich plate is cheaper that any kits I've seen.

Last edited by Voboy; Oct 17, 2012 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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I followed this DIY for the parts for my oil cooler setup. I don't recall exactly what I spent. And i came up with my own mounting solution.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...r-install.html

Last edited by WTFMike; Oct 17, 2012 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 01:38 PM
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I'm running a B&M cooler, ordered a sandwich plate and built my own lines. Cost around $225
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:26 PM
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http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5265
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by WTFMike
I followed this DIY for the parts for my oil cooler setup. I don't recall exactly what I spent. And i came up with my own mounting solution.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...r-install.html
Yup yup, read that one and another one for like 3-4 times now. Both were great write ups and that's what really got me thinking of building my own.

I do have a question tho, does it matter whether the inlet/outlet of the cooler be on the top or bottom? I've seen both ways. is there any particular reason to do it one way or another?
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
I'm running a B&M cooler, ordered a sandwich plate and built my own lines. Cost around $225
Yeah, figure that's about the price. the cooler runs around 70-90, the Mocal sandwich is another 80 or so, with lines, fittings, and other misc. that should total up to around $200-230 range.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cyc5181
I do have a question tho, does it matter whether the inlet/outlet of the cooler be on the top or bottom? I've seen both ways. is there any particular reason to do it one way or another?
Up is the preferred way to mount the cooler I believe. Mounted with the hoses down the cooler will drain when the car is off which will cause the dipstick to read incorrectly.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 07:34 AM
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Mount the cooler with the fittings up or at least the outlet fitting up. That will help remove any air that might get trapped in the cooler
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 09:02 AM
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you guys are awesome! thanks!
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