I just noticed you did that too. I also made a shroud on the inside to act like poor mans ducting to force air only to the radiator and oil cooler. Will try and get pics. I am not sure what angle is on the APR but I think it's the same. Least aggressive angle so far.

 

Made some adjustments! Front grip is now INSANE. Much better than before. I put it on with no other changes other than lowering it, and the car had massive oversteer. Like terrasmak I had to increase the rear wing angle to try and balance it out.

It's also built like a tank. Survived two offs, with only a broken/ lost bolt that holds the main support onto the splitter itself. This is under heavy braking.

 

I don't remember what coilover you have but, if you have an adjustable body, slightly extend it to reduce up travel. If you have non adjustable body like mine, install a thicker bump stop , I just put some in mine , they engage 3/4 inch before the car bottoms out , the add 100lb of spring rate when they engage. You may also benefit from stiffer springs too. I have yet to test, but I went from a 700lb to 736lb front spring.

 

I'm still just on off the shelf Koni yellows and swift spec r springs. 280-450 lbs progressive.

 

Dam, you really need stiffer springs. I don't know if you can add a larger bump stop with those shocks, maybe TrueChoice Koni can help. Send them in, revalve and get springs. I would really say 11k or up to about 650lb front and rear , those shocks from what i understand cant handle much more spring (even with the revalve)

 

I am also on Konis yellows, I have a set of NISMO(NISSAN) T2 springs laying around. My understanding is they are around 600lbs, I work right next to Konis and was going to get them revalved this winter, you think not worth it?

 

690lb f/r for the t2 springs. You can try, cant think of the name on here, but they could never get them to not blow when valved properly for higher spring rates.