Hello,

My goal is to smooth out my Z a bit on the track, and a bit more comfortable driving to and from the track. A goal of smoothness and stability. It is great on the track, but I have to work hard. Its hard to get in gear and be smooth, and the diff locks hard.

I've had my Z for a few years now. It is an 03 Base Manual. Over the last couple of years. I've upgraded the Z quite a bit, but not in power at all. It is all drivetrain and suspension. Listed below is what I have. Basically, I think most of my issues are with the Clutch, Flywheel, and LSD.

I have done the following:
Drivetrain:
ACT heavy duty clutch
Lightweight flywheel
Kaaz 1.5way LSD - set to 100% lock

Suspension:
Megan Racing Camber and Toe Kits (Nearly all the bars replaced)
Bucket Delete
Fortune Auto 510 Coilovers(Awesome on the track, cheap and super stable - Not so much driving to the track - bouncy)

Also,
Sparco Evo 3 seats with harnesses

This is what I am thinking, help me check my math
It's probably about time to change the clutch and flywheel. I think I am going back to a stock flywheel, but an aftermarket clutch. Set the LSD to a less aggressive lock rate. Will the stock flywheel be a disadvantage at all on the track? What do you think?

Thanks in advance!

 

Swap out dampers for Clubsports , set diff lock to 80% and keep your flywheel.

 

Will set it to 80% lock after this next track day (got one saturday at Summit Point). What do you think about a less aggressive clutch? It's an ACT, can't remember which one. Any suggestions there? As for the dampers, the Fortune Autos are good for now, but I might eventually upgrade.

 

Did you opt for the swift spring upgrade on the Fortunes? I've rode shotgun on many track cars equipped with their coilovers,including both their EVOs and didn't find the harsh.

I ask because I was very close to calling them up and having a set made

 

Yes, I got everything, so yes I got the swift springs. I should clarify, they are amazing on the track! Driving to the track at low speeds - 15-20mph, hitting a bump is when it gets bouncy. I have a rather agreesive spring rate, that's why it's bouncy. Hah. On the track, it sticks. I used to drift made the car amazingly stable. Here let me show you something.
This - The last half is great
and yet this

 

How much suspension travel do you have ?

 

Front vs the rear, different spring rates and damper settings so different suspension travel. Rear is bouncy, front is stiff. Car is only dropped an inch. Not entirely sure to be honest on the suspension travel. Here is the rear end with wheel in view, if you'd like to review it.

 

spring rate and damper setting have nothing to do with travel. I wouldn't doubt it if you don't have your coilovers set properly. You need to check how much up travel you have front and rear before your hit the bump stops.

 

What's the best way to figure that out? With a ruler and sit on the car? I had everything setup by Fortune Auto, as far as the dampeners. They didn't set the ride height admittedly.

terrasmak, I really appreciate your bringing this up. Thanks man.

 

Remove springs , set travel with shock body, install springs and set ride height with spring preload

 

A lot of your issues are how you're handling the steering wheel. Keep your shoulders and elbows down. Relax your arms and shoulders. Steer with your fingers, not the palms. You appear to be bracing yourself in the seat with your elbows. Put in a roll bar with a full racing harness.

Watch this classic video and see how the driver's shoulders are down and the elbows are almost never higher then the centerline of the steering wheel:

http://jalopnik.com/climb-dance-rema...****-507620409

 

Yes, that was a problem for multiple reasons. Admittedly, I have a problem with relaxing. I've been working on that recently with some success. I now have Sparco Evo 3s and racing harnesses. Going racing this weekend.

I'll take a look at that video.

Update:
Just watched that video, amazing video, and wow that actually helped a lot. I see what you mean. That gave me an idea. Thanks.
Btw, I am going to start on some SCCA rally soon.

 

betamotorsports, just did another HPDE this past weekend. I followed your advice. I feel it made a huge difference. I installed the original steering wheel, moved my seat further up, and followed your instructions. Still some issues with the aggression of the LSD (need to dial it down), and issues with being accurate on my downshifts. I decided to stay in 3rd and 4th gear on the track, focus on being smooth. I improved my times by 5 seconds.

I had Sparco seats and harnesses installed. I feel a lot more stable, and since they sat fairly low I could move my seat up. I was too tall with my helmet on, so I had to lean back and set the seat far back, a great deal. You might be able to tell in my older videos posted, you were commenting on.

I just uploaded my video. Driving more with my fingers than my palms.

 

Glad my suggestions helped.

 

Terra, can you comment some more on this. Adjusting preload and shock travel in the rear has always been a bit black magic-ish to me as the shocks/springs are separate from each other.

Here's my main question; when you remove the spring and move the wheel and shock up and down its range, is the shock supposed to sit at exactly the middle of its travel range at your normal ride height or is it supposed to sit at for example 2/3 of its travel range still available for compression (@ ride height) , 1/3 of its travel range available for droop (@ ride height) ?

Cheers,
Mario