Triangle Z Club's 2005 HPDE Schedule (starting Feb)
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Originally posted by Stack
It's probably not going to matter... we're capping the yellow and green groups at 40, and they'll all be full by the end of the month. Depends on your comfort level really. If you'd be more comfortable, we can leave you in green group. Just let me know.
-Stacy
It's probably not going to matter... we're capping the yellow and green groups at 40, and they'll all be full by the end of the month. Depends on your comfort level really. If you'd be more comfortable, we can leave you in green group. Just let me know.
-Stacy
its not really a comfort issue. its more of being crowded . i ran into this last time and had to worry about who was in front or behind me more than my race lines....but if all the groups are gonna be about the same is a mute point and it'll be fine.
it just got my attention cause when mark sent me the link to my auto events had green at 28 and yellow at 47 people.
but if that evens out no big deal this is my 3rd event and second at VIR with no previous problems before. i was planning on moving up a rockingham anyway
what do you think?
Andy... might not hurt to have an extra set of pads on hand, just in case, but I'd bet your current pads will be OK with the fluid change. The temps will be low, and there's lots of time on full course for them to cool off if you do use them hard.
-Stacy
-Stacy
Originally posted by mc350z
its not really a comfort issue. its more of being crowded . i ran into this last time and had to worry about who was in front or behind me more than my race lines....but if all the groups are gonna be about the same is a mute point and it'll be fine.
it just got my attention cause when mark sent me the link to my auto events had green at 28 and yellow at 47 people.
what do you think?
its not really a comfort issue. its more of being crowded . i ran into this last time and had to worry about who was in front or behind me more than my race lines....but if all the groups are gonna be about the same is a mute point and it'll be fine.
it just got my attention cause when mark sent me the link to my auto events had green at 28 and yellow at 47 people.
what do you think?
I say lets go ahead with yellow for now, we can always move you if needed during the event.
-Stacy
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Stack-sounds good!
andycapp-
let me chime in on the brake pads discussion. i can tell you from experience! at my last event i had new (nismo) fronts but my rears were old hadnt been changed since i had the car about 11K miles. but i figured rears would be ok.......wrong!!! i ended up doing the last lap in my first session on my backing plates. this tore my rotors all to hell (not to mention the nimso fronts chewed tehm up aswell) and on top of that i didnt know how i was getting home. i was so lucky a guy there had an extra set of OEM rears. that saved my day.
i even had some brake fade despite using ATE dot 4 fluid.you might not have this with the brembos. ive got a touring with the rays track wheels i came up on a M3 and as we went in to a turn i didnt slow that well. got a little sketchy! so yeah i would suggest extra pads unless . you might not have to install them before the meet but at least have a back up
my instructor said that because i hadnt been doing this that long my style was a little heavy on the brakes and with more seat time i would be able to balance it out better and not be as hard on them . so is depends on your style and brake condition
i learned not being prepared with brakes can ruin your day. thats one reason im switching to the C6 . that last event made me parinoid with the Z
with the C6 ive got the Z51 drilled rotors and big brakes. its only running Dot 3 though
as far as covering the car up. i just tape my headlamps up with painters tape. you might want to do that
ive got a clear bra on both cars so i feel a little better.
andycapp-
let me chime in on the brake pads discussion. i can tell you from experience! at my last event i had new (nismo) fronts but my rears were old hadnt been changed since i had the car about 11K miles. but i figured rears would be ok.......wrong!!! i ended up doing the last lap in my first session on my backing plates. this tore my rotors all to hell (not to mention the nimso fronts chewed tehm up aswell) and on top of that i didnt know how i was getting home. i was so lucky a guy there had an extra set of OEM rears. that saved my day.
i even had some brake fade despite using ATE dot 4 fluid.you might not have this with the brembos. ive got a touring with the rays track wheels i came up on a M3 and as we went in to a turn i didnt slow that well. got a little sketchy! so yeah i would suggest extra pads unless . you might not have to install them before the meet but at least have a back up
my instructor said that because i hadnt been doing this that long my style was a little heavy on the brakes and with more seat time i would be able to balance it out better and not be as hard on them . so is depends on your style and brake condition
i learned not being prepared with brakes can ruin your day. thats one reason im switching to the C6 . that last event made me parinoid with the Z
with the C6 ive got the Z51 drilled rotors and big brakes. its only running Dot 3 though
as far as covering the car up. i just tape my headlamps up with painters tape. you might want to do that
ive got a clear bra on both cars so i feel a little better.
Last edited by **; Jan 18, 2005 at 08:19 PM.
Just a Note on the two brakes (and I speak from experience). The amount of fade and ware between the Brembo's and Nismos are night and day. We have had a Track and a touring model come out on the same weekend. Both with Super Blue and new pads. By the end of the weekend (on VIR South, which is really hard on brakes) the Brembo's looked hardly worn, while the nismo's were shot, and could not be saved. The Nismo brakes are good for street use, but are way too small and heated for real track use. We have had more than one brake engineer wonder why Nissan used the Altima brakes on the non-brembo 350Z's. They are rated for a car under 3100 lbs. Now Eric upgraded his on the touring, and they were awsome. But I don't remember what brand they were.
The good news is you can change all four wheel pads in under 10 minutes for either sets. We did it between sessions for the touring.
You can always bring a extra set with you. We will have plenty of tools, people, and experience there to help.
As far as the green/yellow group. You will find that yellow flows a lot better. The makes of cars also won't make as big of a difference as well. There are a lot less trains and more generious passing signals as well because people have their eye's up and are actually checking their mirrors.
The good news is you can change all four wheel pads in under 10 minutes for either sets. We did it between sessions for the touring.
You can always bring a extra set with you. We will have plenty of tools, people, and experience there to help.
As far as the green/yellow group. You will find that yellow flows a lot better. The makes of cars also won't make as big of a difference as well. There are a lot less trains and more generious passing signals as well because people have their eye's up and are actually checking their mirrors.
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sounds good hope to meet you there
are you getting OEM replacment pads or something like hawks or nismoi? ive heard the hawks are good. the nismos like marty said are fair but they really scar your rotors but after some normal driving they smooth back out
are you getting OEM replacment pads or something like hawks or nismoi? ive heard the hawks are good. the nismos like marty said are fair but they really scar your rotors but after some normal driving they smooth back out
Looking forward to it was well, mc350z. I'll be taking a hard look at your C6....
I'm not sure which pads I'll pick up yet. It looks like the Nismo are definitely the most expensive ($270) compared to the Hawk HPS ($170) and the OEM ($150) (from here). I tend to feel like the Nismo pads are overpriced based mainly on the fact that their other performance parts tend to be more costly than 'comparable' after-market counterparts. I think the Hawks are the 'dustless' ones that I've read about which would be nice on the street, but I'm guessing they will perform a little more poorly. You can't have everything.
Unless I hear a compelling reason after reading the forums or otherwise a little more I'll probably end up with the OEM ones as backups. I'm not a huge fan of sticking with OE parts, but for this it would be nice to have something that I know will work. Hopefully I won't need 'em anyway, but you never know!
I'm not sure which pads I'll pick up yet. It looks like the Nismo are definitely the most expensive ($270) compared to the Hawk HPS ($170) and the OEM ($150) (from here). I tend to feel like the Nismo pads are overpriced based mainly on the fact that their other performance parts tend to be more costly than 'comparable' after-market counterparts. I think the Hawks are the 'dustless' ones that I've read about which would be nice on the street, but I'm guessing they will perform a little more poorly. You can't have everything.
Unless I hear a compelling reason after reading the forums or otherwise a little more I'll probably end up with the OEM ones as backups. I'm not a huge fan of sticking with OE parts, but for this it would be nice to have something that I know will work. Hopefully I won't need 'em anyway, but you never know!
You need to get a high temp track pad. Try carbotech's xp8. Unfortunately with non-brembos you are hosed. There are not many pads availabe and they can't withstand heat. Your oem setup probably won't even last on VIR full. Don't even think of trying it on south course without lines, fluid and pads. I eventually got a 14" front kit and still had not resolved pad issues before I sold my car.
Guys... I realize I don't have much experience with 350Zs, or 300hp cars for that matter... but I do have track experience with a heavy car and stock brakes. I started all this in a 1990 non-turbo Z32 automatic.... if there's another car harder on brakes, let me know.
For a first time track event, in february when temperatures are bound to be downright cold, and VIR full course with long straights to help cool the brakes, Andy really shouldn't be too scared about his brakes.... IF he follows some key advice.'
A #1: Buy some very high quality brake fluid like Motul 600 (clicky clicky ) I'm sure there are many places to buy it, this was the 1st place I found.
A #2: Buy a decent pad, but you don't have to break the bank doing it. Stay away from race compunds for your first few events - you shouldn't need them. They take too long to get up to temperature... I've said it before, better (IMO) to have two sets of pads at $100 each than one set at $270 (or whatever the going rate for Z33 pads is).
A #3: Listen to your instructor. Someone earlier mentioned the tendency to over-use the brakes you first time on track. This is very true. When we all started, we tended to ride the brakes a little coming up to a turn... its natural. The trick is to get over it quickly. You'll be taught to do your braking in the shortest amount of track possible, that means brake hard and quick, without jabbing the brakes to cause lock-up or ABS. If you ride the brakes at all, they will over heat the fluid, then you'll experience brake fade. If you don't ride the brakes, you won't. Plain and simple.
I'll reiterate the fluid advice... a high quality fluid with a high boiling point (Motul 600 = 600 degree boiling point) means the fluid can 'absorb' a lot of the heat generated by braking. Its ok if they heat up, just not OK if the STAY heated up. The longer you brake, the longer they heat will linger.
Oh yeah, my experience... For my first two track events at Carolina Motorsports Park and VIR South Course respectively, I used stock calipers, stock rotors, stock brake lines, with Axxis Metal Master street pads and Motul 600 fluid. Not only did I not have any brake fade or loss, I actually got compliments on the braking ability of the car from my instructors.... this in a car that was 300+ pounds heavier than a 350z, and an automatic (i.e. no engine braking help). Ask anyone, and they'll tell you those two tracks are the hardest on brakes on the east coast. If that car can handle it, I don't see any reason why a 350Z can't.
For a first time track event, in february when temperatures are bound to be downright cold, and VIR full course with long straights to help cool the brakes, Andy really shouldn't be too scared about his brakes.... IF he follows some key advice.'
A #1: Buy some very high quality brake fluid like Motul 600 (clicky clicky ) I'm sure there are many places to buy it, this was the 1st place I found.
A #2: Buy a decent pad, but you don't have to break the bank doing it. Stay away from race compunds for your first few events - you shouldn't need them. They take too long to get up to temperature... I've said it before, better (IMO) to have two sets of pads at $100 each than one set at $270 (or whatever the going rate for Z33 pads is).
A #3: Listen to your instructor. Someone earlier mentioned the tendency to over-use the brakes you first time on track. This is very true. When we all started, we tended to ride the brakes a little coming up to a turn... its natural. The trick is to get over it quickly. You'll be taught to do your braking in the shortest amount of track possible, that means brake hard and quick, without jabbing the brakes to cause lock-up or ABS. If you ride the brakes at all, they will over heat the fluid, then you'll experience brake fade. If you don't ride the brakes, you won't. Plain and simple.
I'll reiterate the fluid advice... a high quality fluid with a high boiling point (Motul 600 = 600 degree boiling point) means the fluid can 'absorb' a lot of the heat generated by braking. Its ok if they heat up, just not OK if the STAY heated up. The longer you brake, the longer they heat will linger.
Oh yeah, my experience... For my first two track events at Carolina Motorsports Park and VIR South Course respectively, I used stock calipers, stock rotors, stock brake lines, with Axxis Metal Master street pads and Motul 600 fluid. Not only did I not have any brake fade or loss, I actually got compliments on the braking ability of the car from my instructors.... this in a car that was 300+ pounds heavier than a 350z, and an automatic (i.e. no engine braking help). Ask anyone, and they'll tell you those two tracks are the hardest on brakes on the east coast. If that car can handle it, I don't see any reason why a 350Z can't.
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Originally posted by mcclaskz
You need to get a high temp track pad. Try carbotech's xp8. Unfortunately with non-brembos you are hosed. There are not many pads availabe and they can't withstand heat. Your oem setup probably won't even last on VIR full. Don't even think of trying it on south course without lines, fluid and pads. I eventually got a 14" front kit and still had not resolved pad issues before I sold my car.
You need to get a high temp track pad. Try carbotech's xp8. Unfortunately with non-brembos you are hosed. There are not many pads availabe and they can't withstand heat. Your oem setup probably won't even last on VIR full. Don't even think of trying it on south course without lines, fluid and pads. I eventually got a 14" front kit and still had not resolved pad issues before I sold my car.
yeah your right!
south course was my first event ever last year and although i didnt have any noticable performance problems with the non brembo set up when i got home i realized i melted all 4 of my centercaps out of my rays track wheels and my rotors turned a ugly burnt color.
hopefully i wont have any problems with the vettes Z51 package. but not being so relient on riding the brakes into turns is the #1 thing im aiming to work on next month
Last edited by **; Jan 19, 2005 at 06:34 PM.
I can second the Carbotechs, and can highly recomend the Hawk HP+, they are not pure race pads, but seem to hold up better than standard Nismo and HPS pads. They are have backing material to help keep the heat out if the Caliper.
I upgraded to the Brembo's before my final track event last year. I also used Ate Super Blue fluid, stainless lines, and HP+ pads. What a world of difference over the base brakes. I would cook 1 set of front pads and 2 sets of rears each weekend with the old brakes. with the new ones, i can brake as hard as i want all day, and never have to worry about it. i think i used about 1/12th of the pads in that last weekend. don't waste your money on the nismo pads. definately look to the Hawk or Carbotech. otherwise, make sure you have good fluid and a good bleed, and get ready for a fun weekend.
sean
sean
the track is so hard on the base brakes rear pads mainly because of the pad size. i don't know if you have compared the rear pads to the fronts, but they are less than half the size. also, the rotors are much smaller in the rear. less surface area, more heat, more wear. a situation that would never be realized by a normally driven street car (such as the altima, which is where the brakes came from). it makes me mad that nissan put such crappy brakes on the car, but honestly, those few cars that ever hit a track will be the only one's that ever experience a problem.
anyway, i can't wait to see the C6 out there. you should come back to to green with me (j/k). it's my 3rd event too. there is a 911 GT3 and a Maserati Cambiocorsa (sp?) in green right now. i'm sure you will be just fine in yellow.
sean
anyway, i can't wait to see the C6 out there. you should come back to to green with me (j/k). it's my 3rd event too. there is a 911 GT3 and a Maserati Cambiocorsa (sp?) in green right now. i'm sure you will be just fine in yellow.
sean
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Originally posted by bigdaddy
the track is so hard on the base brakes rear pads mainly because of the pad size. i don't know if you have compared the rear pads to the fronts, but they are less than half the size. also, the rotors are much smaller in the rear. less surface area, more heat, more wear. a situation that would never be realized by a normally driven street car (such as the altima, which is where the brakes came from). it makes me mad that nissan put such crappy brakes on the car, but honestly, those few cars that ever hit a track will be the only one's that ever experience a problem.
anyway, i can't wait to see the C6 out there. you should come back to to green with me (j/k). it's my 3rd event too. there is a 911 GT3 and a Maserati Cambiocorsa (sp?) in green right now. i'm sure you will be just fine in yellow.
sean
the track is so hard on the base brakes rear pads mainly because of the pad size. i don't know if you have compared the rear pads to the fronts, but they are less than half the size. also, the rotors are much smaller in the rear. less surface area, more heat, more wear. a situation that would never be realized by a normally driven street car (such as the altima, which is where the brakes came from). it makes me mad that nissan put such crappy brakes on the car, but honestly, those few cars that ever hit a track will be the only one's that ever experience a problem.
anyway, i can't wait to see the C6 out there. you should come back to to green with me (j/k). it's my 3rd event too. there is a 911 GT3 and a Maserati Cambiocorsa (sp?) in green right now. i'm sure you will be just fine in yellow.
sean



