DIY 350Z Track, Rotor and Pad Install, and System Bleed.
03-22-2012, 06:42 PM
#62
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useful even though I'm not changing my pads and rotors yet, I will be installing some SS lines so the bleeding the brakes part will def come in handy!
Although it was never answer, but I dont believe its necessary to bleed brakes with just changing pads and rotors.. unless your upgrading fluid
Although it was never answer, but I dont believe its necessary to bleed brakes with just changing pads and rotors.. unless your upgrading fluid
04-03-2012, 07:38 PM
#63
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Just did my rears. For the 19mm bolts holding the calipers on I used a wratcheting closed wrench and a 5 pound cast iron dumbell. My hammer wasn't heavy enough. I found a piece of rubber foam to wrap around the wrench so I could put pressure on the other end of the wrench with my hand.
The ratcheting wrench was a good fit, makes the most of the limited space.
On my Motive Power Bleeder, I used the universal adpater. Held the pressure at 10 PSI. I would pump it up to 15 when I started each one, it would go down to 10 slowly and stay put. I didnt want to monkey around with the fitment of the adapter and was making progress so I just left it.
I ended up bleeding the entire system. I put 2 qts of brake fluid in the power bleeder to start. I figure the extra time it would take was worth it.
Motive sells sport drink style bottles with about 12" of hose and a thin braided steel lanyard for hanging off the suspension. Very handy.
The ratcheting wrench was a good fit, makes the most of the limited space.
On my Motive Power Bleeder, I used the universal adpater. Held the pressure at 10 PSI. I would pump it up to 15 when I started each one, it would go down to 10 slowly and stay put. I didnt want to monkey around with the fitment of the adapter and was making progress so I just left it.
I ended up bleeding the entire system. I put 2 qts of brake fluid in the power bleeder to start. I figure the extra time it would take was worth it.
Motive sells sport drink style bottles with about 12" of hose and a thin braided steel lanyard for hanging off the suspension. Very handy.
Couldn't fit a breaker bar. Tried hammering the ratchet and even extending the ratchet with the jack handle and hitting that with the hammer.
I put the tires back on and decided I would pay someone. I was dousing the bolt with penetrant in between.
Searched and read a couple 350z and G35 diy so I decided to give it one more try. Once again the ratchet with jack handle extension did not work. Here is what did:
1.) Penetrating oil again. Closed end wrench. Whacked the closed end wrench hard with the jack handle
The jack handle seems is heavier than the hammer I was using.
Summary:
Penetrant. Closed end wrench. Big Jack Handle or BFH.
02-25-2013, 08:02 PM
#64
Here's a copy-and-past from the FSM .pdf. The CORRECT bleeding order is explained below:
Bleeding Brake System AFS000U0
CAUTION: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
Bleeding Brake System AFS000U0
CAUTION: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear right bleed valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleed valve to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque. Refer to BR-25, "Components" ,BR-31, "Component" ,BR-
38, "Components" ,BR-44, "Components" .
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front
left, rear left, and front right tires, in that order.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/
11-20-2014, 06:12 PM
#65
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Great write ups and new to the site. But after a full caliper, rotor, and pad change out here are some hints.
lower bot on rear caliper use jack to lift suspension and it will get you a better angle for impact.
to get rotors off easily go to you tube
Still trying to get rid of sponginess after 2nd bleeding attempt
Good luck.
lower bot on rear caliper use jack to lift suspension and it will get you a better angle for impact.
to get rotors off easily go to you tube
Still trying to get rid of sponginess after 2nd bleeding attempt
Good luck.
02-12-2022, 05:39 AM
#66
Remove rotor. Put on new rotor, and insert new pads into caliper. Placer caliper
Gf
Parts:
Stoptech 2pc AeroRotors
Ferodo DS2500 Pads
Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid
Tools:
22mm Wrench
19 mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
11mm Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
Hammer or Rubber Mallet
Water Pump Pliers or C Clamp
WD-40
Brake Parts Cleaner
Floor Jack
4 Jack Stands
Lots of Rags
Helpful but not needed:
Motive Power Bleeder
Plastic Tubing
Arrowhead Bottle (or something comparable to catch break fluid)
Mechanics Gloves
I am not really going to get into the obvious. So, I will make it quick.
Jack up your car with floor jack, then place jack stands in proper areas.
Then loosen Lug Nuts and remove wheels
I started with my front brakes.
With a 12mm wrench remove the nut that holds on the bracket that keeps your brake line in place.
This will come in handy when you remove your caliper. This will give you the needed slack in
your brake line to handle your caliper without risking damaging the brake line.
With Needle Nose Pliers remove pins and shims that hold pads in place.
With a 22mm Wrench Take off the 2 bolts that hold on the calper. You may need to spay some
WD-40 in order to take off the bolts. Take caliper off and remove pads.
Use C Clamp or Water Pump Pliers to push pistons back into rotor. This will create the room you will
need to insert new pads.Remove rotor. Put on new rotor, and insert new pads into caliper. Placer caliper back on to rotor.
Insert caliper bolts and tighten as tight as you can with your hand. Then insert pins and shims to
hold pads in place. With 22mm wrench tighten caliper bolts
This is what it should look like when you are done.
Parts:
Stoptech 2pc AeroRotors
Ferodo DS2500 Pads
Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid
Tools:
22mm Wrench
19 mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
11mm Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
Hammer or Rubber Mallet
Water Pump Pliers or C Clamp
WD-40
Brake Parts Cleaner
Floor Jack
4 Jack Stands
Lots of Rags
Helpful but not needed:
Motive Power Bleeder
Plastic Tubing
Arrowhead Bottle (or something comparable to catch break fluid)
Mechanics Gloves
I am not really going to get into the obvious. So, I will make it quick.
Jack up your car with floor jack, then place jack stands in proper areas.
Then loosen Lug Nuts and remove wheels
I started with my front brakes.
With a 12mm wrench remove the nut that holds on the bracket that keeps your brake line in place.
This will come in handy when you remove your caliper. This will give you the needed slack in
your brake line to handle your caliper without risking damaging the brake line.
With Needle Nose Pliers remove pins and shims that hold pads in place.
With a 22mm Wrench Take off the 2 bolts that hold on the calper. You may need to spay some
WD-40 in order to take off the bolts. Take caliper off and remove pads.
Use C Clamp or Water Pump Pliers to push pistons back into rotor. This will create the room you will
need to insert new pads.Remove rotor. Put on new rotor, and insert new pads into caliper. Placer caliper back on to rotor.
Insert caliper bolts and tighten as tight as you can with your hand. Then insert pins and shims to
hold pads in place. With 22mm wrench tighten caliper bolts
This is what it should look like when you are done.
- Follow the Torque Spec on Brembos these are aluminum if you tighten them too tight you will be either buying new or machining them and retapping. This is from experience..
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