Suspension FAQ and Reviews! (tech info, tuning, and reviews)
Hello all, I won these brand new factory front an rear springs an struts that were taken off a brand new 2005 350Z and replaced with perfomance nissmo units. I cant use them (wish i could there very nice!) due to the fact that I have a 71 510. If anyone out there is looking for a nice new set for a fraction of the cost please feel free to E mail me! I'm open to any offers as well as any trades! I do have pictures so again please E mail me! I hate to see these not being used!
Thanks all!
Ken
jmhaldeman@comcast.net
or ph# 360-909-6773
Thanks all!
Ken
jmhaldeman@comcast.net
or ph# 360-909-6773
Great information. We like JICs for race yet use a Tokico/Eibach for the street.
Warmly,
Michael
VRT

www.ViolentRacing.com
Warmly,
Michael
VRT

www.ViolentRacing.com
Tein Flex w/ EDFC, Hotchkis sway bars, Kinetix A-Arms and Traction/camber arms. My car is lowered by 1" and has an agressive alignment.
Ride: With the Tein turned to soft feels a little stiffer than stock. Yet, the sway bars definitely keep the car level around the turn. When the Tein is turned all the way "hard" it feels like a race car. When I auto-X I have found that setting the front to 4 (0 being the hardest, 16 being the softest) and the rear to 7 or 8 is the best. For the drag strip setting the rear to Zero and front to 2-4 works best.
Kinetix allows for a much more agressive camber than stock, and when you lower your car by more than 3/5", your stock adjust will be out of range.
Easy to adjust - EDFC what else could be easier.
Look - lowering the car looks great, yet my suspension looks like a christmas tree (green coil overs w/ red sway bars).
Cons - more noise than stock, yet I would expect that with the bushings.
Ride: With the Tein turned to soft feels a little stiffer than stock. Yet, the sway bars definitely keep the car level around the turn. When the Tein is turned all the way "hard" it feels like a race car. When I auto-X I have found that setting the front to 4 (0 being the hardest, 16 being the softest) and the rear to 7 or 8 is the best. For the drag strip setting the rear to Zero and front to 2-4 works best.
Kinetix allows for a much more agressive camber than stock, and when you lower your car by more than 3/5", your stock adjust will be out of range.
Easy to adjust - EDFC what else could be easier.
Look - lowering the car looks great, yet my suspension looks like a christmas tree (green coil overs w/ red sway bars).
Cons - more noise than stock, yet I would expect that with the bushings.
I just did my first autocross with this set up and loved it! The sways were st to Med/Med. I had OEM tires, AEM CAI, MD plenum spacer.
The car was much more neutral around cornering and was fairly easy to oversteer. Before, I could go into a corner a little hot and trail brake through it to reduce understeer; Now, when I tried doing the same thing, the rear end would quicky come out (fun, but slow). Understeer was much much less around corners. The car doesn't lean as much, but it's also more sensitive to my inputs - I think I'm able to see the affects of my driving more...some of my bad habits that I could get away with the stock suspension don't work so well now.
I love the set-up and feel like the next then to upgrade is my driving skills...that's the fun part!
The car was much more neutral around cornering and was fairly easy to oversteer. Before, I could go into a corner a little hot and trail brake through it to reduce understeer; Now, when I tried doing the same thing, the rear end would quicky come out (fun, but slow). Understeer was much much less around corners. The car doesn't lean as much, but it's also more sensitive to my inputs - I think I'm able to see the affects of my driving more...some of my bad habits that I could get away with the stock suspension don't work so well now.
I love the set-up and feel like the next then to upgrade is my driving skills...that's the fun part!
Here conversion if needed.
Springs are rated in pounds/inch in the U.S., and Newtons/millimeter elsewhere.
1 pound = 0.45359237 kilogram
1 inch = 25.4 millimeter
0.45359237/25.4 = 0.0178579673228346
The conversion factor is 0.0178579673228346
So, to convert lb/in to kg/mm you multiply by 0.0179 and to convert kg/mm to lb/in you divide by 0.0179
Springs are rated in pounds/inch in the U.S., and Newtons/millimeter elsewhere.
1 pound = 0.45359237 kilogram
1 inch = 25.4 millimeter
0.45359237/25.4 = 0.0178579673228346
The conversion factor is 0.0178579673228346
So, to convert lb/in to kg/mm you multiply by 0.0179 and to convert kg/mm to lb/in you divide by 0.0179
Still no one has said which STRUTS/SHOCKS they are using with the Hotchkis! What would be the correct set to use with the TVS so as not to have too much bounce or be to soft. Like NISMO their system works because they set it up together.
Originally Posted by downforce
Still no one has said which STRUTS/SHOCKS they are using with the Hotchkis! What would be the correct set to use with the TVS so as not to have too much bounce or be to soft. Like NISMO their system works because they set it up together.
Thanks everyone, I hope everyone is still enjoying the information and can find these reviews useful. I havent posted here in a while, so I will hopefully get a chance to add more information and personal reviews on my Zeal V6 coilvers, alignment, camber/toe, sway bars, and general suspension tuning...keep the reviews coming!
Originally Posted by downforce
Thanks,
Are you talking about the koni yellows?
I was thinking about using TVS from Hotchkis but didn't want to screw up the shock/spring combo.
Are you talking about the koni yellows?
I was thinking about using TVS from Hotchkis but didn't want to screw up the shock/spring combo.
For myself, I rather have a true coilover setup.
Originally Posted by downforce
Still no one has said which STRUTS/SHOCKS they are using with the Hotchkis! What would be the correct set to use with the TVS so as not to have too much bounce or be to soft. Like NISMO their system works because they set it up together.
sorry, haven't checked this area in awhile...I'm using OE shocks with the TVS 1 kit. spring/shock combo seems fine (both street and track).
overall I'm still very happy with the set-up...but i'm looking for a set of coilovers to go even lower and if I have enouhg $, to adjust the dampening.
-peter
Swift Sport Mach Springs Review:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/231140-swift-sport-mach-springs-just-installed.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/231140-swift-sport-mach-springs-just-installed.html
Nismo S-Tune
Damper Design: Twin Tube
Damper Adjustment: none
Height Adjustment: none (-20mm fixed)
F Spring Rate: 8.1kg/mm +43% (progressive)
R Spring Rate: 8.9kg/mm +48% (progressive)
Roll Transfer: +5% stiffness to rear
Notes: Includes pillowball upper mounts. All rates tuned specific for Z
source: 350z - tech.com/zwiki/Coilovers
Damper Design: Twin Tube
Damper Adjustment: none
Height Adjustment: none (-20mm fixed)
F Spring Rate: 8.1kg/mm +43% (progressive)
R Spring Rate: 8.9kg/mm +48% (progressive)
Roll Transfer: +5% stiffness to rear
Notes: Includes pillowball upper mounts. All rates tuned specific for Z
source: 350z - tech.com/zwiki/Coilovers
Last edited by downforce; Jan 28, 2007 at 10:38 PM.
You could almost get the Nismo S-Tune spring rates with an adjustable ride height and dampening by mixing two HKS sets.
Front HKS RS
448/448 F+43% R+31%
Rear HKS HIPERMAX II
504/504 F+61% R+47%
Then you would also have somewhere close to a Roll Transfer: +5% stiffness to rear. Then pick up some 350evo sways and cachow baby! All hypothetically speaking of course.
Front HKS RS
448/448 F+43% R+31%
Rear HKS HIPERMAX II
504/504 F+61% R+47%
Then you would also have somewhere close to a Roll Transfer: +5% stiffness to rear. Then pick up some 350evo sways and cachow baby! All hypothetically speaking of course.
Originally Posted by MoodDude
Tein Flex w/ EDFC, Hotchkis sway bars, Kinetix A-Arms and Traction/camber arms. My car is lowered by 1" and has an agressive alignment.
Ride: With the Tein turned to soft feels a little stiffer than stock. Yet, the sway bars definitely keep the car level around the turn. When the Tein is turned all the way "hard" it feels like a race car. When I auto-X I have found that setting the front to 4 (0 being the hardest, 16 being the softest) and the rear to 7 or 8 is the best. For the drag strip setting the rear to Zero and front to 2-4 works best.
Kinetix allows for a much more agressive camber than stock, and when you lower your car by more than 3/5", your stock adjust will be out of range.
Easy to adjust - EDFC what else could be easier.
Look - lowering the car looks great, yet my suspension looks like a christmas tree (green coil overs w/ red sway bars).
Cons - more noise than stock, yet I would expect that with the bushings.
Ride: With the Tein turned to soft feels a little stiffer than stock. Yet, the sway bars definitely keep the car level around the turn. When the Tein is turned all the way "hard" it feels like a race car. When I auto-X I have found that setting the front to 4 (0 being the hardest, 16 being the softest) and the rear to 7 or 8 is the best. For the drag strip setting the rear to Zero and front to 2-4 works best.
Kinetix allows for a much more agressive camber than stock, and when you lower your car by more than 3/5", your stock adjust will be out of range.
Easy to adjust - EDFC what else could be easier.
Look - lowering the car looks great, yet my suspension looks like a christmas tree (green coil overs w/ red sway bars).
Cons - more noise than stock, yet I would expect that with the bushings.
2003 G35 Coupe w/ stock 18" wheels
Previous suspension mods:
Unrevised 350z Springs
Project Kics spacers: 15mm front, 20mm rear
Tires: Nitto 555, oem sizes
I just installed the Nismo front and rear sways yesterday. It took me exactly 2 hours, working under the car on jack stands.
All I can say is OMMFG!!
I can't believe how well the new sways control body roll! I go to work the same route every day, and I've got some Lateral G data (taken by my Apexi RSM w/ G-Sensor). My best (consistently) was .96 Gs on an interstate on ramp I take everyday on the way home. I'll edit this with the new reading if it changes.
There is one sharp turn (30 mph caution sign) that I hit on my way to work. I usually didn't take it over 60ish because the car felt like it was pushing (understeer) going any faster than that. I hit it as 60 this morning and it felt like I was in a go-kart. I'm going to push it harder and see what I can get.
I bought these second-hand from Turbo Toys for less than half of what they cost new. Most people don't go with the Nismos because they are not adjustable, but through my research, most people with experience with these say that they are as stiff as what most people set their adjustable sways to. I don't track the car, so adjustablility was not as important to me. I tend to think that the factory can do a better job engineering these for our cars than an aftermarket mfr can simply because they have all of the vehicles engineering data to work with.
I'll post more later.
Previous suspension mods:
Unrevised 350z Springs
Project Kics spacers: 15mm front, 20mm rear
Tires: Nitto 555, oem sizes
I just installed the Nismo front and rear sways yesterday. It took me exactly 2 hours, working under the car on jack stands.
All I can say is OMMFG!!
There is one sharp turn (30 mph caution sign) that I hit on my way to work. I usually didn't take it over 60ish because the car felt like it was pushing (understeer) going any faster than that. I hit it as 60 this morning and it felt like I was in a go-kart. I'm going to push it harder and see what I can get.
I bought these second-hand from Turbo Toys for less than half of what they cost new. Most people don't go with the Nismos because they are not adjustable, but through my research, most people with experience with these say that they are as stiff as what most people set their adjustable sways to. I don't track the car, so adjustablility was not as important to me. I tend to think that the factory can do a better job engineering these for our cars than an aftermarket mfr can simply because they have all of the vehicles engineering data to work with.
I'll post more later.


