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Eibach Springs

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Old 04-02-2005, 10:47 PM
  #21  
n1cK!
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Originally Posted by n1cK!
caster is toe. and yes, the traction arms/toe arms do adjust toe. this is from the kinetix site.
see, i told you slaponte that i needed to go back to that website sometimes! caster is NOT toe. i'm an idiot! oh well, if anyone's interested, jus' go to this thread or this one to see what we're talkin' about. i would like to correct myself.
Old 04-03-2005, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by slaponte
You only need the rear camber arms. Some people think the traction arms fix toe, this is incorrect. For toe fixing you need larger cam bolts.

I have 26K miles on Eibachs and stock shocks, no problems. To get alignment into spec I needed : Front Upper A Arms (used Kinetix), rear camber arms (also Kinetix). Toe in the back is maxed out to the limit, got the toe cam bolts just to have adjustment space but not "required".
some of these statements are getting very confusing. if you add large cam bolts to the factory traction/trailing arms to adjust toe this would be the same as putting adjustable traction arms on. the motion of the rear spindle/hub assembly would move in the same direction in/out with the cam bolt or adjustable arm.........unless of course your putting a cam bolt in a different location. all i know is my toe specs are pretty legit(not on the edge of spec, well within) in the rear & the only after market suspension pieces i have other than the eibachs are the kinetix camber & traction arms.......

-justin
Old 04-03-2005, 10:57 PM
  #23  
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I got Eibach'd 6,000 miles ago. I waited a few weeks to let the springs settle in. During this time I noticed the negative camber in the rears and started to hear the front tires (toe) when I went 25-35 mph. My fronts also started to wear in the inside. Whether lowering the car had anything to do with the toe is debatable.

When I finally got a chance to get my alignment, the shop got it all close to spec. No more tire sound, no more un-even wear and tear. I did not need any aftermarket parts.

IMO, I think it comes down to who is doing the alignment. If you have a dealership do it, they will recommed everything and the kitchen sink. If you take it to an alignment shop or a Z shop, you will get better work/service. That's been my experience. My advice is to just get an alignment after the Eibachs. Look at the printout and if your off a few degrees from spec, don't sweat the aftermarket parts. If you're still way off then do what you gotta do to get your Z right.

PM your email address to me and I will send you the before and after the Eibachs...

Good luck!
Old 04-04-2005, 07:51 AM
  #24  
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Guys, there are things that might be opinions and others are facts.

Fact : there is NO CAMBER ADJUSTMENT in the front of your 350Z OEM suspension.

So, if you drop the car, DEPENDING on the size of the drop, you MIGHT remain within camber spec or not. If you are NOT, there is no way to fix it unless you get adjustment (kit/arms). Or, you live with camber out of spec.

Fact: obviously, there is toe adjustment on the front, this has never been discussed.

Fact : there is a LIMITED amount of camber and toe adjustment available on the rear.

Again, depending on the inches you drop, it might or might not be enough to get you back to spec. To many, it is NOT. We all know what adjustbale camber arms due, I don't think there is any argument there.

Fact : Nissan designed an adjustable TOE CAM in the rear.

So, if you can't get enough toe adjustment in the rear, the logical solution would be to get a bigger cam with more adjustment range.

Fact? I won't call it that since I don't know 100%, but I am 99% sure that the "traction" arms were NOT designed to adjust toe, given that the OEM arms are not adjustable to begin with. They are there as a support link for the suspension. It happens that if you change them, and make them adjustable, due to the angle that they sit on, they will affect your toe. But again, this is a side effect among others.

Most people come here and ask : do I HAVE to buy both set of arms or just one. The answer (IMHO) is IF ANYTHING, you would have to buy the camber arms and toe cams. This should be all you need to solve a camber/toe issue on back. If you don't have a camber/toe issue, then don't spend the $$$, go get another mod.

Myz8 : The cam bolt does not go on the end of the traction arm that I know off, but I will check that. The arms come in an angle inwards, so when you adjust them you get an angled motion. The cam bolts produce a "side to side" motion, thus pointing the front of the tire in and out (Toe).
Old 04-04-2005, 08:47 AM
  #25  
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the only cam bolt in the rear spidle area is located on the camber arm, im curious where the cam bolts for the toe need to be installed, or how any alignment shop adjusts rear toe? my specs are pretty darn good with the kinetix rear arms, though i realize everyones case is different.....

rnl323, i have to disagree with your statement. you said "My advice is to just get an alignment after the Eibachs. Look at the printout and if your off a few degrees from spec, don't sweat the aftermarket parts." a few degrees of toe or camber could kill your tires in a week! within 1/2* of camber spec or .02 toe i would say should be your limit if you want your tires to last a little while! but to each his own, you have to feel comfortable with your car & its alignment specs regardless of what anyone else thinks. i just wanted to give what i have learned about alignments & how much being out of spec can excessively wear your tires......

-justin
Old 04-04-2005, 09:05 AM
  #26  
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The location of the cam bolt can be seen on this pict :

Old 04-04-2005, 03:37 PM
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yeah, thats where the traction arm bolts to. so it using the same arm for adjustment. so my adjustable kinetix arms are adjusting toe just as(surely better than)the bolt shown in the pic above........
when i installed my arms i had to try to get the alignment in the rear as close to "ok" as posssible in order to drive my car to the alignment shop. both arms adjustment effect the other so its a matter of countering back & forth untill you get the desired results. heres a few shots i had from when i installed my kinetix rear arms. yuo can see how they adjust as well as the location of each side of the arm.....

-justin
Attached Thumbnails Eibach Springs-photo383.jpg   Eibach Springs-photo384.jpg   Eibach Springs-photo385.jpg  

Last edited by myz8a4re; 04-04-2005 at 03:40 PM.
Old 04-04-2005, 05:17 PM
  #28  
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are those the same bolt holes?
Old 04-04-2005, 06:39 PM
  #29  
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same bolt holes? do you mean the pics i posted, are they same bolt holes as shown in the illustration posted by slaponte? if so, yes, they are the identidcal bolt locations. in the illustration it shows aftermarket adjustable camber arms & one cambolt used on the chassis side of the traction arm to adjust toe, and it is called a "toe cambolt"......

-justin
Old 04-04-2005, 10:19 PM
  #30  
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Myz8, no, they are NOT the same bolts.

That bolt in red in the illustration holds the arm in the form of a cup where the rear coil spring is resting on to the inside frame. Lets identify the links :

- Traction rod is what Nissan calls in their book the radious arm. It runs from the spindle towards the front of the car in an inwards angle. This is why when you replace it and adjust it it turns toe in or out a fraction. But when the angles match, it will start pulling the spindle as a whole forward. I believe the function of this arm, which is not adjustable in any way (OEM) is to absorb the pull that happens when you hit lets say a pot hole. If you don't have this arm, the other two joints will receive an angled back force that would damage them over time. Anyway thats just my thinking.

- Then there is the "camber arm" which Nissan calls their Front Lower Link. This attaches to the spindle and runs inward towards the center of the car. It has a cam bolt in the inside attachment, but this cam does not give you enough camber adjust. This is why you put an adjustable arm, to get more camber adjust than the OEM cam provides. In the illustration, this is the red arm.

- Then there is what Nissan calls the Rear Lower Link, which is the wide piece that runs from the spindle to the frame and holds the spring on it. On the inside attachment of this arm is the cam bolt to adjust TOE. Because the arm hooks up to the rear of the spindle, turning the cam moves the arm in and out and thus adjust TOE in and out.

This is all based on the instructions and illustrations on the shop manual. Unfortunately I can't post that picture here. The traction arm is not seen on the illustration I posted. What you see is the camber arm in red and the inside attachment point of the rear lower link, which is again that wide piece that holds the spring on it.

Last edited by slaponte; 04-04-2005 at 10:26 PM.
Old 04-04-2005, 10:33 PM
  #31  
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Talking

Here it is! The very best picture in the universe of this. You will see this is NOT where the traction arm attaches. A great write up as well.

Chad's Write Up
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