whats your corrected front camber after alignment with cusco or 350evo?
#1
whats your corrected front camber after alignment with cusco or 350evo?
- what was your front camber numbers before and after alignment?
- what front control arm did you use?
- are cusco's tweakable to achieve some more positive adjustment?
I'm trying to get camber to -1.2 or more positive.
sorry for constantly flooding the forum with questions with alignment questions. I've done my searches and cannot find straight the answers. I promise to stop bringing up "camber" stuff after this thread . After a week of eye twitching, lack of funds\sleep, just signed back up for school, managing suspension budget I'm trying to once and for all decide on a a-arm. then go from there.
my corrected front right is
-2.2 (camber)
9.6 (caster)
.04 (toe)
6.3 (SAI)
4.1 (included angle)
my corrected front left is
-1.8 (camber)
9.0 (caster)
.05 (toe)
5.6 (included angle)
TIA for any information
- what front control arm did you use?
- are cusco's tweakable to achieve some more positive adjustment?
I'm trying to get camber to -1.2 or more positive.
sorry for constantly flooding the forum with questions with alignment questions. I've done my searches and cannot find straight the answers. I promise to stop bringing up "camber" stuff after this thread . After a week of eye twitching, lack of funds\sleep, just signed back up for school, managing suspension budget I'm trying to once and for all decide on a a-arm. then go from there.
my corrected front right is
-2.2 (camber)
9.6 (caster)
.04 (toe)
6.3 (SAI)
4.1 (included angle)
my corrected front left is
-1.8 (camber)
9.0 (caster)
.05 (toe)
5.6 (included angle)
TIA for any information
#4
It will depend on your ride height.
What springs/ shocks are you currently running.
We designed our ball joint and slider plate package to allow the most + camber setting without the arm hitting on the chassis under compression.
BJ@350EVO.com
What springs/ shocks are you currently running.
We designed our ball joint and slider plate package to allow the most + camber setting without the arm hitting on the chassis under compression.
BJ@350EVO.com
#5
i know you didnt ask about the kinetix arms but my current front camber with eibach lowering springs is -.7L & -.8R when i 1st showed up for my alignment i was -1.7L & -1.2R, but this was just after i installed the arms myself so they could have really been anywhere as theres no way to be sure where you are when installing them.....
-justin
-justin
#6
dwnshift,
-tein flex coil overs
- dropped front is lowered 1 1/8"
- 245/35/20 tires
I know over all your control arms will have more postive adjustability over cuscos, but will it get mine into the stock range?
do you offer financing on those with $400 down? Or a used set laying around, or any other option to get a more affordable set from you? I've been looking on every forum for someone selling a set of 350evo's
By the way, GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE! I called last week and was impressed with how much information I got without pulling teeth, and with no attitude at all.
-tein flex coil overs
- dropped front is lowered 1 1/8"
- 245/35/20 tires
I know over all your control arms will have more postive adjustability over cuscos, but will it get mine into the stock range?
do you offer financing on those with $400 down? Or a used set laying around, or any other option to get a more affordable set from you? I've been looking on every forum for someone selling a set of 350evo's
By the way, GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE! I called last week and was impressed with how much information I got without pulling teeth, and with no attitude at all.
#7
i'm trying to decide between the cusco's and 350evo's as well. obviously, the price difference is my issue. while the kinetix look to be a major PITA to adjust, the cusco's look just as easy as the 350evo's. the kinetix i think you had to cut the inner fender (black) plastic. do you have to the do the same for the cusco's (given they are both tubular, i'm wondering if the same issue would appear for both)?
i'm not looking to drop the car (much, if any), but i need more *NEGATIVE* camber in the front so as to get better tire wear on the race track. right now i have to really ease my turn-in to avoid chewing up the outside edges, and i'm still getting outside 1/3 rubber temps 15-20 degrees hotter than middle or inside. i'd like to get at least -1.5, if not -2 at stock ride height.
comments?
ahm
i'm not looking to drop the car (much, if any), but i need more *NEGATIVE* camber in the front so as to get better tire wear on the race track. right now i have to really ease my turn-in to avoid chewing up the outside edges, and i'm still getting outside 1/3 rubber temps 15-20 degrees hotter than middle or inside. i'd like to get at least -1.5, if not -2 at stock ride height.
comments?
ahm
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#8
you do not have to cut anything to install the kinetix arms. the last time i adjusted the front kinetix arms i left the wheel on & did it! i jacked up the side i was adjusting, with the suspension unloaded there is enough room to access the area fro adjustment above the tire. i loosened the jam nut, loosened the main nut on the spindle, made a few turns & retightened everything down. yes it is easier with the wheel off but all in all its not that bad!
-justin
-justin
#9
Has the car been corner weighted? Side to side differences in camber are normal on this platform, but normally it's in the .4 degree range or less.
It's been posted before that the Cusco arms are only designed to be able to remove .5 degree's of negitive camber. That the arms will dial in negitive camber for car's that are sitting at oem ride height and only offer a tiny range of correction for lowered cars. Though, removing .5 from your current specs would mean -1.7/-1.3, though I'd be inclined to make the camber a even vs maintaining a .6 difference.
I'll argue that the 350EVO arms will give you more adjustment range and have the added plus of sperical bushings vs the Cusco's rubber (said to be poly) bushings.
It's been posted before that the Cusco arms are only designed to be able to remove .5 degree's of negitive camber. That the arms will dial in negitive camber for car's that are sitting at oem ride height and only offer a tiny range of correction for lowered cars. Though, removing .5 from your current specs would mean -1.7/-1.3, though I'd be inclined to make the camber a even vs maintaining a .6 difference.
I'll argue that the 350EVO arms will give you more adjustment range and have the added plus of sperical bushings vs the Cusco's rubber (said to be poly) bushings.
#10
The Cusco arms come with these adjustments:
+4mm (+.5)
-4mm (-.5)
-8mm (-1)
-12mm (-1.5)
I modified mine to have +8mm (+1degree) I am lowered with Eibachs, but have not had an alignment as of yet..
It IS possible to get more adjustment from these arms.. Cuscos are the way to go for those on a budget and some skill in the garage...
+4mm (+.5)
-4mm (-.5)
-8mm (-1)
-12mm (-1.5)
I modified mine to have +8mm (+1degree) I am lowered with Eibachs, but have not had an alignment as of yet..
It IS possible to get more adjustment from these arms.. Cuscos are the way to go for those on a budget and some skill in the garage...
#11
Originally Posted by toykilla
The Cusco arms come with these adjustments:
+4mm (+.5)
-4mm (-.5)
-8mm (-1)
-12mm (-1.5)
I modified mine to have +8mm (+1degree) I am lowered with Eibachs, but have not had an alignment as of yet..
It IS possible to get more adjustment from these arms.. Cuscos are the way to go for those on a budget and some skill in the garage...
+4mm (+.5)
-4mm (-.5)
-8mm (-1)
-12mm (-1.5)
I modified mine to have +8mm (+1degree) I am lowered with Eibachs, but have not had an alignment as of yet..
It IS possible to get more adjustment from these arms.. Cuscos are the way to go for those on a budget and some skill in the garage...
how did you modify yours?
#12
toykilla - did you take out the dremel and elongate some stuff and shave away the round part? I only thought of it by looking at pictures of the cusco's, but didn't know if anyone tried it yet. show pix if you can please
#13
The problem with positive camber is the cars inner fender limits the amount you can camber out the ball joint. As the ball joint gets adjusted outwards (reducing negative camber ) it comes closer to the cars sheetmetal inside the fender.
It has nothing to do with the arm itself, only the amount of clearance the arm has past the ball joints centerline.
Our arms have great clearance past the ball joint, which is why we selected the type of ball joint we use. The 350evo arms also loook to have good clearance beyond the ball joint.
Trimming the plastic is only a means of trying to gain more clearance, which would be necessary of any arm.
If you look at the cusco arms, it is very clear they have much more material beyond the ball joint, and simply would not allow as much positive camber adjustment.
It has nothing to do with the arm itself, only the amount of clearance the arm has past the ball joints centerline.
Our arms have great clearance past the ball joint, which is why we selected the type of ball joint we use. The 350evo arms also loook to have good clearance beyond the ball joint.
Trimming the plastic is only a means of trying to gain more clearance, which would be necessary of any arm.
If you look at the cusco arms, it is very clear they have much more material beyond the ball joint, and simply would not allow as much positive camber adjustment.
#14
Originally Posted by OvaYahead
toykilla - did you take out the dremel and elongate some stuff and shave away the round part? I only thought of it by looking at pictures of the cusco's, but didn't know if anyone tried it yet. show pix if you can please
#15
maybe this is a stupid question. since the oem upper arms aren't adjustable, what is the factory camber setting (at factory ride height)? I mean, if they're set at -1, and the cusco/kinetix/350evo only go -1.5, that doesn't seem to be all that helpful (for me). I assume that's not the case, but i realized i didn't know the answer which would seem fairly germane in this discussion.
ahm
ahm
#16
the limitation on postive camber with those aftermarket arms depends on how low your car is. the only reason you would need the adjustable units at factory ride height is if you auto-x & want the adjustability or have uneven right to left camber settings & want to get them more even. at factory ride height you can get a heck of alot more positive camber reading as opposed to being lowered........
-justin
-justin
#17
#18
Originally Posted by amolaver
maybe this is a stupid question. since the oem upper arms aren't adjustable, what is the factory camber setting (at factory ride height)? I mean, if they're set at -1, and the cusco/kinetix/350evo only go -1.5, that doesn't seem to be all that helpful (for me). I assume that's not the case, but I realized i didn't know the answer which would seem fairly germane in this discussion.
ahm
ahm
#19
Originally Posted by toykilla
The Cusco arms give you an EXTRA -1.5 degrees. So this is 1.5 degrees measured from stock.. (or +.5 positive) (or +1.0 positive if modded)
ahm
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