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Better braking

Old Jun 17, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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Default Better braking

What are my options to improve my breaking without spending thousands on a big break kit. I have a budget of around $750 but am willing to stretch it a bit. A $4000 kit just isn't feasable right now.
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Old Jun 17, 2005 | 10:19 PM
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A set of high quality pads would improve braking for about $350. Project MU, Hawk, Axxis etc. Add braided brake lines and you should be @ about $550.

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JET
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:12 AM
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Thanks, any more suggestions, what about new rotors?
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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There is a nice "Stage 2" kit from Stoptech over at Performance Nissan -

http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=3424



Goes for $649, and has new Rotors, Hawk Pads, SS lines and Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 11:45 AM
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Anyone know what size those rotors are in that upgrade kit?
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 12:37 PM
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Rotors won't improve your braking unless you go to a larger size. Larger rotors act as a large heat sink and reduce fade. The brake fluid won't help you either unless of course you are tracking the car. For the street don't bother with brake fluid.

JET
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
Rotors won't improve your braking unless you go to a larger size. Larger rotors act as a large heat sink and reduce fade. The brake fluid won't help you either unless of course you are tracking the car. For the street don't bother with brake fluid.

JET
Yes, replace the brake fluid even if you don't go to the track. The factory stuff is crap and when I bled my brakes there was air in there after 3k miles and never getting on the track. I put Willwood 600 in and the pedal felt way better then stock.
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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by thawk408
Yes, replace the brake fluid even if you don't go to the track. The factory stuff is crap and when I bled my brakes there was air in there after 3k miles and never getting on the track. I put Willwood 600 in and the pedal felt way better then stock.
Removing air will obviously improve the brake system. Air should never be present. But ho do you attest your improvments to the fluid change, and not to removing the air?

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Old Jun 18, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
Removing air will obviously improve the brake system. Air should never be present. But ho do you attest your improvments to the fluid change, and not to removing the air?

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JET
I am not, but it still does not change the fact that the stock fluid is crap. Bleed them with good 600 temp fluid to get out all the air and if you ever want to go to the track then you don't have to worry about your fluid.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
Rotors won't improve your braking unless you go to a larger size. Larger rotors act as a large heat sink and reduce fade. The brake fluid won't help you either unless of course you are tracking the car. For the street don't bother with brake fluid.

JET
These are standard Non-Brembo replacement rotors (for the size)...

They may not improve your braking, but they are not as SOFT as the OEM rotors, and will not be as prone to grooving or wearing down like the OEM's. The OEM rotors can only be turned once (usually) before they are out of spec.

Just a thought.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by thawk408
I am not, but it still does not change the fact that the stock fluid is crap. Bleed them with good 600 temp fluid to get out all the air and if you ever want to go to the track then you don't have to worry about your fluid.
Please explain why the stock fluid is "crap"? It's uncompressible hydraulic fluid just like ALL brake fluids. Unless you have issues with brake fluid boiling (read track) you are wasting your money on brake fluid. Unless of course you are doing an annual change which is a good idea. But improving braking under normal driving conditions? Nope....

JET
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
Please explain why the stock fluid is "crap"? It's uncompressible hydraulic fluid just like ALL brake fluids. Unless you have issues with brake fluid boiling (read track) you are wasting your money on brake fluid. Unless of course you are doing an annual change which is a good idea. But improving braking under normal driving conditions? Nope....

JET
Jet, I honestly don't give a damn what you think. I replaced the stock DOT3 brake fluid (crap) with Wilwood 600+ and my pedal felt noticably firmer. DOT3 fluid sucks....period. Even in normal driving conditions DOT3 will loose its braking abilities faster then DOT4. Here is a link that explains this: http://www.empire1.net/racing/neonra...luid_faq.shtml
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 02:35 PM
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Why the hostility? You have yet to explain your case to me of why the stock fluid is "crap". Make a case or go away.

Any idiot could figure out...... if you remove air from your lines your pedal would be firmer. Air is COMPRESSIBLE. Being that as it may I have yet to hear your argument for changing brake fluid.

Respect (but quickly losing respect with each post you make)
JET
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JETPILOT
Why the hostility? You have yet to explain your case to me of why the stock fluid is "crap". Make a case or go away.

Any idiot could figure out...... if you remove air from your lines your pedal would be firmer. Air is COMPRESSIBLE. Being that as it may I have yet to hear your argument for changing brake fluid.

Respect (but quickly losing respect with each post you make)
JET
No hostility, just don't care. I have provided proof to what I say. READ the link. I do take into account that I did remove air from the lines, but the facts and differences between DOT3 and DOT4 still stand. At the end of the article that I provided you will read how DOT3 fluid loses its braking abilities sooner then DOT4. Here I will even give you alittle bit of what it says: "Conventional DOT3 brake fluids will absorb and average of 2% or more of water in the first year of usage. In that period, the boiling point can drop from 401 degrees to 250 degrees, a reduction of over 150 Fahrenheit degrees.(6) Brake fluid designated a DOT4 possesses an important characteristic, having low moisture activity or improved ability to resist boiling point drop. This boiling point drop becomes essential in assuring safe brake operation."

Last edited by thawk408; Jun 19, 2005 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 04:21 PM
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Let me ask you..... do you see cars brakes failing driving around on local roads due to brake fluid boil off ??

In my opinion this is someone wanting to sell brake fluid. If your driving around town, see no track use, and change the stock fluid once a year you're fine. If when you replace your fluid and want to add DOT 4 synthetic.... all the power to you. It doesn't do a thing to improve braking but will prevent boil off which isn't going to happen if you're not tracking your car (read repeated stops from high speeds not associated with normal driving conditions on the street.) And thats all I have to say about that.

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JET
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 05:00 PM
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The only difference between new dot3 and dot4 fluid is its boiling point. They will both feel exactly the same until their boiling point is reached. I use Super Blue but only because I needed a change not because it makes any difference in pedal feel.

Cheap brake improvements are going to be pads and brake lines.
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Old Jun 19, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by pj550v12
What are my options to improve my breaking without spending thousands on a big break kit. I have a budget of around $750 but am willing to stretch it a bit. A $4000 kit just isn't feasable right now.
what is your main purpose? tracking? or for the look? if not for tracking then you don't need to upgrade your brake.
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 04:58 PM
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I thought Dot 4 actually needed to be changed every 6 months or so because it was MORE likely to absorb water than Dot 3?
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