rotor weight
#1
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rotor weight
Does anyone know(weighted) the weight of his front rotors?
Stock Brembo rotor lbs?
Stock Cheapass rotor lbs?
2 piece rotor 13" lbs? (stoptech, rotora, wilwood, etc...)
2 piece rotor 14" lbs? (stoptech, rotora, wilwood, etc...)
Just curious, and haven't found anything precise searching the forum
Stock Brembo rotor lbs?
Stock Cheapass rotor lbs?
2 piece rotor 13" lbs? (stoptech, rotora, wilwood, etc...)
2 piece rotor 14" lbs? (stoptech, rotora, wilwood, etc...)
Just curious, and haven't found anything precise searching the forum
Last edited by Nano; 07-13-2005 at 12:00 PM.
#2
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The Brembo is about 22-23 lbs - aftermarket should be the same - if not then you just lost some braking capacity
2-piece rotors can save about 2-3 lbs a corner in most cases. Again - lighter IS better but that iron mass serves a pretty important function. They cost a fortune too. The BBK saves weight over a typical cast iron sliding caliper set up because of the switch to an aluminum caliper - not so much the rotor. The 2 piecers cost quite a bit as well and require hardware too. Even the replacement rings are up there. ($200 ea or so) And even if a 14" rotor is lighter the fact that it is bigger diameter costs you acceleration.
I think the most effective kits stay w/a 1 piece rotor and use a good al. caliper of fixed design. Unless you got spare coin or are PRETTY SERIOUS track guy or just GOTTA HAVE THE BLING....
Whatever you do please don't further the idiocy that is drilled rotors - they are not helping and are hurting - they can crack much more easily and shred your pads .....
2-piece rotors can save about 2-3 lbs a corner in most cases. Again - lighter IS better but that iron mass serves a pretty important function. They cost a fortune too. The BBK saves weight over a typical cast iron sliding caliper set up because of the switch to an aluminum caliper - not so much the rotor. The 2 piecers cost quite a bit as well and require hardware too. Even the replacement rings are up there. ($200 ea or so) And even if a 14" rotor is lighter the fact that it is bigger diameter costs you acceleration.
I think the most effective kits stay w/a 1 piece rotor and use a good al. caliper of fixed design. Unless you got spare coin or are PRETTY SERIOUS track guy or just GOTTA HAVE THE BLING....
Whatever you do please don't further the idiocy that is drilled rotors - they are not helping and are hurting - they can crack much more easily and shred your pads .....
#3
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Brembo Front Rotor- 20 lbs
Brembo Front Caliper- 9 lbs
Stoptech 14" AeroRotor- 18 lbs
Stoptech 14" Caliper- 8 lbs
These are based off of my actual measurements
and before you ask-
Brembo Rear Rotor- 17 lbs
Brembo Rear Caliper- 6 lbs
Stoptech 14" AeroRotor- 18 lbs
Stoptech Rear Caliper- 6 lbs
Brembo Front Caliper- 9 lbs
Stoptech 14" AeroRotor- 18 lbs
Stoptech 14" Caliper- 8 lbs
These are based off of my actual measurements
and before you ask-
Brembo Rear Rotor- 17 lbs
Brembo Rear Caliper- 6 lbs
Stoptech 14" AeroRotor- 18 lbs
Stoptech Rear Caliper- 6 lbs
#4
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drsifu,
so you went from the brembos to the stoptech kit?
any comments on how they feel compared to the brembos?
I've been debating selling my brembos for stoptechs, but am thinking of maybe just getting some aerorotors (already have stoptech brake lines and motul 600 fluid)
so you went from the brembos to the stoptech kit?
any comments on how they feel compared to the brembos?
I've been debating selling my brembos for stoptechs, but am thinking of maybe just getting some aerorotors (already have stoptech brake lines and motul 600 fluid)
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feel is very subjective.
if you have the brembos, stick with them. if you track your car, it may be a different story, otherwise it's a waste of money.
i upgraded my brakes because I show my car. Need that extra advantage.
if you have the brembos, stick with them. if you track your car, it may be a different story, otherwise it's a waste of money.
i upgraded my brakes because I show my car. Need that extra advantage.
#6
the burninator
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ok cool, thanks
It's become apparent to me lately that aftermarket kits aren't that much better than the brembos - only marginably better anyway. Read several articles where the AP racing or stoptech brakes barely do anything better than the brembos.
It looks like if I get stoptech aerorotors in the stock brembo sizes I'll save about 10 or so lbs total off the wheels.
It's become apparent to me lately that aftermarket kits aren't that much better than the brembos - only marginably better anyway. Read several articles where the AP racing or stoptech brakes barely do anything better than the brembos.
It looks like if I get stoptech aerorotors in the stock brembo sizes I'll save about 10 or so lbs total off the wheels.
#7
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Originally Posted by sentry65
drsifu,
so you went from the brembos to the stoptech kit?
any comments on how they feel compared to the brembos?
I've been debating selling my brembos for stoptechs, but am thinking of maybe just getting some aerorotors (already have stoptech brake lines and motul 600 fluid)
so you went from the brembos to the stoptech kit?
any comments on how they feel compared to the brembos?
I've been debating selling my brembos for stoptechs, but am thinking of maybe just getting some aerorotors (already have stoptech brake lines and motul 600 fluid)
For drilled rotors cracking. I have NEVER heard of a quality drilled rotors cracking on street pads... should NEVER happen. Track pads are another issue, I wouldn't track a drilled rotor.
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#8
the burninator
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I track my car, but haven't been lately cause of the summer and my car is running too lean now
hmm I didn't know that about changing the Motul 600 every 2-3 months, but that'd maybe explain why last track event my clutch fluid boiled (i have crawford headers which was probably the main cause)
hmm I didn't know that about changing the Motul 600 every 2-3 months, but that'd maybe explain why last track event my clutch fluid boiled (i have crawford headers which was probably the main cause)
#9
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The stock Track Model Brembos will hold up great on the street, autoX, and even some track duty if good race pads are used. IF you run out of heat capacity, an aftermarket kit with bigger rotors will help quite a bit. We've had many customers pull off the Brembos and switch to our system with great success. A lot of guys with Track models just switch out the fronts to ours...the rear Brembo's have enough heat capacity...the front is where the problem arises.
For example, Unitech Racing was running out of brakes on the stock Brembos at Laguna Seca (even with our 2-piece AeroRotors...which were a huge improvement). The rotor was simply too small to deal with the amount of heat they were putting into them. Since switching to our full BBK a few weeks ago, they are getting multiple races out of one set of pads because the heat buildup is so much less! In fact, they even won the race this weekend with our brakes:http://www.grandamerican.com/News/Article.asp?ID=4664
For example, Unitech Racing was running out of brakes on the stock Brembos at Laguna Seca (even with our 2-piece AeroRotors...which were a huge improvement). The rotor was simply too small to deal with the amount of heat they were putting into them. Since switching to our full BBK a few weeks ago, they are getting multiple races out of one set of pads because the heat buildup is so much less! In fact, they even won the race this weekend with our brakes:http://www.grandamerican.com/News/Article.asp?ID=4664
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Originally Posted by Nano
do you track the car? Motul 600 is pretty useless unless you REALLY track the car. It's expensive as hell and needs to be bleeded/changed every 2-3 months otherwise it loses it's properties.
For drilled rotors cracking. I have NEVER heard of a quality drilled rotors cracking on street pads... should NEVER happen. Track pads are another issue, I wouldn't track a drilled rotor.
For drilled rotors cracking. I have NEVER heard of a quality drilled rotors cracking on street pads... should NEVER happen. Track pads are another issue, I wouldn't track a drilled rotor.
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Originally Posted by ke0ki2k
wow...didnt know that about the Motul.
Thats because it is not true. All brake fluids adsorb water, but this notion that motul and other high end fluids do it extremely fast is just wrong. Water can only enter the brake system by way of the microscopic holes that exist in the system. Over the same period of time, the same amount of water will be adsorbed by whatever fluid you have in the car...the fluid you have in the system will not change this effect. More info here: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml
On a non-tracked car, chaning your fluid ever 12-18 months is all you need to do. For cars that see the track, a good bleed to get fresh fluid in the calipers before and after each event is the most maintenence you should need to do and will keep water levels to a minimum as fresh fluid will be added somewhat regularly.
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Originally Posted by ReV2Red
Time to bring it back from the dead.
How much do the two pice aero rotors in stock size weigh?
How much do the two pice aero rotors in stock size weigh?
#17
Yes, I know this thread is very old...
Stop-Tech Drilled / Slotted directional w/Brembo, but not Aero-Rotor's:
I hate slotted and dimples are stupid. I would prefer drilled with curved directional vanes to save weight and cool the rotor. Dimples and slots won't cool the rotor.
I guess i'll have to pay for a 2-peice fronts next time, if I can find them in drilled "only" and NOT made in China.
- Front: 20.5lbs
- Rear: 17.5lbs
I hate slotted and dimples are stupid. I would prefer drilled with curved directional vanes to save weight and cool the rotor. Dimples and slots won't cool the rotor.
I guess i'll have to pay for a 2-peice fronts next time, if I can find them in drilled "only" and NOT made in China.
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