im planning on replacing the oem brake fluid with motul this weekend and just want to be clear. i should drain out all of the old fluid from the res and refill it with the new fluid prior to starting the bleeding procedure correct?

whats the best method for removing the old fluid from the reservoir?

after filling the reservoir with new fluid can i just get a friend to pump the brakes a few trimes and then leave the bleeder screw open until i see new fluid in the tube or do you have to open it for a second at a time until you see it.

thanks in advance

 

It may sound funny, but I've used a Shop Vac to suck out the old brake fluid and it works fine. Open the cap and stick the nozzle in there. btw - do NOT get any fluid on the paint, it will leave a mark.

As for your other question about bleeding, you will be able to bleed each caliper at each wheel by opening the nipple, having a buddy press the brake pedal till it slowly bottoms out, and then closing it again (the nipple) and having your bud pump the brakes back up till pressure is felt again. It may take 5-10 'bleed cycles' before you get the old fluid out and new starts showing --- 5-10 for each tire -- so make sure this is a person who doesn't have a whining trait.

Make sure you have all air out of the lines. Keep the reservoir full up top, and make sure your buddy does NOT let off the pedal till you have the nipple closed each time, it can suck air back in the line if not closed.

Others on here may have better methods, I defer to the group's wisdom.

 

There is much more effecient methods, but it involves a compressor and a vaccula which is available from Matco, MAC, Snap-On. There is also one-way bleeders which can be installed. With those you remove the factory bleeders, install the one-ways, hook-up hose inserted in semi-filled bottle of clean brake fluid, crack the one-way as you do normally and pump the brakes yourself without the fear of air being pulled back in. And the best part...no whining buddy needed.

 

Bleeding should be fairly simple. Never let air in the master cylinder, rule of thumb if the level drops to min level, fill it to max and then start pumping and repeat.

Here is the excerpt from the service manual.

Edition: August 2004
Revision: December 2004
Publication No. SM5E-1Z33U1

Bleeding Brake System AFS000U0
CAUTION:
While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear right bleed valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleed valve to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque. Refer to BR-25, "Components" ,BR-31, "Component" ,BR-38, "Components" ,BR-44, "Components" .
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front left, rear left, and front right tires, in that order.

 

Make sure you bleed them in the right order too:
1.Passanger Rear
2.Driver Rear
3.Passanger Front
4.Driver front

Some things that will help the job go faster is:
- Have a cordless drill to take off the lug nuts
- A container on hand that you can dump the brake fluid into
- Leave the hood open and the brake cover off so you can see and fill the fluid easy.

Some other things to look at while you are doing it:
-Take a look at your brake pads (see if they need replaced)
-Inspect you susension linkages for fatigue, you bushings for breakages, and that all the nuts and bolts holding it together are tight.

 

Follow Mood Dude's write up and just make sure that there is no air in the brake lines...When I bleed my brakes, i keep refilling to make sure that the new brake fluid is coming through

 

MoodDude, in the 2003 service manual is says the bleed order is LR, FR, RR, FL. I would guess that as long as you are just replacing fluid, and not trying to get air bubbles out, order might not matter.

 

Are you sure about that? The master cylinder is in the front driver's side, so the correct order should be furthest to closest.

 

this is the correct order if there is no fluid left in the system (do to a hose blowing,or caliper leaking) it is done that way to center the metering valve.the best way to do it if it is not empty is,r/r,l/r,r/f,l/f.if the metering valve is not centered the brake light will remain on and you will have just about no pedal.do not let the master cylinder run empty.