shanecrosby

iTrader: (3)

I have 17k miles on my Z and have the original Brembo brakes. I finally topped out and hit the governor at 156mph or so. As I slowed down from 156 to 80, I warped my damn rotors! I couldn't believe it. I admit I did slow pretty quickly, but to warp them on one good breaking session???? I'm burned out now... Has anyone else been able to warp their rotors?

StopTech

You most likely did not warp the rotors but created uneven pad depostis by overheating the pads as explained in this article on our website here:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

If the problem has just started, you may be able to fix it by doing a complete bed in cycle as outlined here:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

If your pads are well worn (more than half way) you may want to only so 1 bed in session or look at some new pads since the rotors are proababy still salvageable.

-Erik-

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

+1 ---But fact is, Rotors DO warp, Its the nature of the beast. If above doent do the trick 100% then a little clean up on the lathe will true things up. Keep close tabs on rim torque. And never in situations, like urs, put ur self in a position where u cant slo down without prolonged pressure on the system otherwise ur asking for it.

shanecrosby

iTrader: (3)

Hey StopTech, I have a blue ring all the way around the middle of my front rotors now aside from the vibration under heavy braking. I just noticed today. I read your article regarding re-bedding and I am unable to perform this type of activity here in OC. There is no single road that I can hit 80mph then back down to 10mph more than maybe twice without getting caught. If you were in my situation, would you have the local tire/brake shop resurface the rotors with the lathe? If so, should I get new pads afterwards?

mthreat

iTrader: (16)

60mph down to 10 should work fine.

Fluid1

iTrader: (19)

If your rotors are not substantially ground from wear, and are not actually warped, then a resurfacing should work just fine if it comes to that. I would be very careful about 'testing' the brakes from 60-10mph if you don't think the brakes are working right. If you don't think you can fix the problem, definitely take them to someone who can. Be safe.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

A shop will be able to see warped rotors when milling: the cutting tool will cut, miss, cut, miss. It is difficult to cut rotors if they are misshaped. You have to cut a lot of material away. The result may be less than the minimum recommended thickness.

Best of luck.

shanecrosby

iTrader: (3)

The rotors have 18k miles on them and are smooth to the touch. They definately don't have any indentions, grinds, scrapes or anything. Just some weird blue coloring now. I will see about taking them to a shop.

mthreat - I don't think I could do that either, 60-10mph. that would look kinda funny me going up Harbor blvd hitting 60, then back to 10mph. haha. I could act like I'm going to turn into a driveway! hahah.. I guess I'll go to the shop since I just went to traffic school for speeding. 80 on the fwy-65mph. still got a clean record tho!

MoodDude

There is a article on-line (yet can't find it now) by Carroll Smith about the myth of warping rotors. Stoptech is correct, most likely you have a warped rotor, and their directions for curing the problem is easy.

Kolia

iTrader: (2)

Oh boy…

Here’s a few things to think about before you got waste your money on resurfacing your rotors:

-Steel turns blue when heated.
-On a given setup, the heavier rotor will absorb more heat and thus stay cooler longer (ie not turn blue).
-Surfacing a rotor removes material…

So, if you resurface your rotors but do not change your driving habit (or whatever caused your rotors to turn blue in the first place), the problem will just come back faster.

Also…

-You claim you don’t have anywhere to go to re-bed your pads.
-Surfacing a rotor removes all the pad material from your rotor.
-You’ll still need to perform a bed-in afterward (probably messing up the surface of a now thinner rotor…)

Just do whatever bed in you can manage. 50-10 mph or 60 to 20 mph… As long as you build up heat and shed it in a regular pattern you’ll be fine. After the first few runs, remember to brake really hard. Most people don’t brake hard enough when doing the procedure.

Have you looked at your pads? What brand are they? They might be the source of your problem. If they over heated, they might be vitrified and overly abrasive (pads don’t generate brake torque by grinding. They stick to the rotor instead).

StopTech

If you have one piece rotors, the easier way to solve the problem is to get them resurfaced, but only take off the most minimal cut possible. Just a very light skin cut will do.

If you have the two piece rotors, use the aggressive pad procedure. This takes the cold race pads which are abrasive and it will get rid of the pad deposits.

Rotors are often mis-diagnosed as warped when pad deposition is present. This happens primarily because once the rotors are turned, the problem goes away. The through process is, "I got the rotors turned. The problem is gone, therefore it must have been warped rotors"

The problem usually lies in proper pad selection mated to driving style, much like what Kolia is referring to. Running the same pads and the same driving style will result in the same problem again. One option is to change your driving style. Ok, maybe that's not really an option because no one wants to do that. This leave pad selection. The more aggressive pads will be more difficult to leave pad deposits. The downside with more aggressive pads is the increased amount of dust you will have to put up with.

And for the bed-in, usually industrial areas late at night are good, and carry the bed-in instructions with you just in case you do get pulled over. The primary thing is to keep it safe.

Q45tech

Important to diagnose properly.............how much axial runout...........why they make runout gauges and show how to use them in FSM.

As the hub ages it can get rust, as a new wheel corrodes, this plus rotor corrosion can mean you mount and torque a perfect rotor at a minute angle which when heated self warps to the error.

Why there is a specification also dealers use on the car lathe [won't work with drilled or slotted] to actually mistrue the rotor to correct for hub and wheel bearing errors.

http://www.brakealign.com/pages/products.htm
These come in 0.003 and 0.006" to correct the hub warp and make the rotor edge perfect.

One can spend hours per wheel in getting things right.........few want to pay for oem perfection.

Old School

iTrader: (28)

good advise guys....but one thing has me scratchin my head. How do you have a place to reach 156mph and not a place to slow down from 60mph to 10mph?

Stoptech - just picked up your stage 2 kit...can't wait to install.

shanecrosby

iTrader: (3)

If you read above, I would have to do the 60-10mph run 10 times in a row. This would be appx. a 5 minute chance of getting caught. Whether on streets or the freeway. Hit 156 and slow to 80mph. 25 second window of chance to be caught. There are no streets around to go 60mph and slow to 10mph several times in a row. I'd look drunk and would most likely get caught.. If I tried this on the freeway, I would be slowing to 10mph several times in a row which would also attract attention. Understand? This would increase my chances of getting caught speeding by 12 fold.

THE TECH

iTrader: (154)

Interesting brake info.

StopTech

Find a good stretch of road in an industiral area with no traffic and make a u-turn after each stop. I spend a lot of time in OC myself and can think of at least 5 places where you could do the procedure easily without getting into trouble this way. PM me and I will let you know where my frineds bed in their cars.

-Erik-

spacemn_spiff

iTrader: (3)

I agree with theory , but dont agree with the application and we have been on this road before.

Its not desirable the rotors to be heavy, if that was the case no one would have 2 piece rotors or composite rotors and definitely would not have vanes if mass of the rotor was enough to cool it down or absorb & dissipate the heat. Vanes are not very effective in dissipating heat at very low speeds, other than that they do most of the cooling even when the temperature has not reached the peak or steady state, the mass allows it absorb heat at a certain rate and raise the temperature which is governed by specific heat capacity of a substance.

This should help.

SilverJDMCoupe

iTrader: (2)

I would think a thicker rotor would defend warping longer than a thinner rotor, but with the same material make-up, turn "blue" in the same time frame if under the same exact conditions.

350Zenophile

iTrader: (20)

If rotors and pads are fine, can re-bedding solve a squeaking issue I'm having under light braking?

SilverJDMCoupe

iTrader: (2)

What brakes are you on?