Ok, so in searching for rear brake replacements for my car over the past several days now I've read dozens of product reviews, emailed/PMed several my350z members and dealers about which combination would work best for my car and my driving needs, I've started to wonder......


Is there really any *significant* different between one manufacturer's 1-piece rotor from another? Comparing apples to apples of course (slotted/slotted, XD/XD, etc.)

 

I have to assume so. I am not a metallurgist, but I am certain that a dozen types of steel can be used to cut rotors. There is a infinite number of variables in a piece of steel. Poor quality steel is inexpensive, and most likely makes poor quality rotors.

I recently bought 4 rotors and 4 pads for less than $200. Very pleased with braking and lack of noise and lack or dust. But I think that the key is durability. At 10,000 miles I will take some measurements, and post the results.

 

Iron. Rotors are made of iron (got my fingers wacked for stating they were made of steel once)...


I say: Go for the dba 4000 plain rotors! (But you already knoew that )

 

AS a large 3 shop independent in ATL, we can by rotors for $22 that meet oem dmensions [they will bolt up and fit], these plan rotors RETAIL for $72...........we can buy QUALITY PREMIUM ROTORS for $77 that RETAIL for $150............we usually just mark them up 30% to $100.

Try to find a Centric Premium Rotor.

The metallugy and fit and finish and balance [by grinding perfect] are the keys.

 

I was told by a buddy to stay away from anything made in China and Mexico and look for ones manf. in the U.S. or Japan.

I guess I was just trying to understand what makes one casting better than the other. If different materials are use okay, I can understand that. If they machine the rotors differently after they are cast, okay I can understand that too. Maybe rotors aren't worth a huge write-up, but even in going to *several* different manufacturer’s sites, they don't offer anything other than “standard/premium/race or street/track” (for the most part). I just am trying to understand the value of one manufacturer over another. I want to be sold on the product not just a “well, it’s a better brand.”

So, Kolia…..What’s your opinion on the Stoptech Stage 2 upgrade kit? I know you don’t like slotted rotors, but try and look beyond that. Ha ha

 

The way the iron is pourred and how it's cooled will affect the crystaline structure of the alloy wich in turn drives the mecanical properties (rigidity, strenght, durability...) of the final product.


Too bad the stage 2 upgrade isn't availlable with plain rotors!
Seriously, it's a good package. I'd go with the slotted ones over the drilled.

 

You can always order the individual stage 2 kit parts with blank rotors...any rotor that we offer in slotted or drilled can also be ordered blank

You are very unlikely to have any issue with the slotted or drilled unless you plan to track the car, then go with slotted.

 

i posted a thread the other day with similiar questions but with no
response-i just installed aerorotors on front(slotted) and some track
pads and i am very happy so far-i was considering getting 1 piece
slotted for the rears with track pads-i do autocrossing about 7-8 times
a year and about 2-3 road course track days a year-will this be a good
setup to use or should i go with aerorotors in back as well?
oh yead i ordered stainless lines f+R also.

 

Well…….I just placed my order for the Stoptech Stage II upgrade kit with Z1 Performance. I’ve spent the last……8 days now (lol)……searching the board, talking to different my350z members, searching the board, talking to vendors, searching the board again to learn more about what Z guys were saying about brake performance, wear, longevity, blah, blah, blah, and I think this kit should be a pretty good fit for me.

I wasn’t in the market for 2-piece rotors. If I were to get really serious with this car, then I could justify the increased cost, but I plan on staying n/a and the majority of my driving is straight, flat and under 4k, ha ha. And instead of ordering rotors and pads from different companies, I was able to get a complete setup, with fluid and new s/s lines for about the same price.

My biggest concern was finding a comparable to stock setup that I wouldn’t have to be replacing rotors every 15-20k miles.

StopTech/Kolia – I was told by the dealer that the rears were worn beyond the point where they could be turned. It could’ve been a sales pitch, but I doubt it. I used to work at their sister dealership next door and the writer did offer me (3) different options (Direct O/E Replacement ($1686 LMAO - and (2) Aftermarket Options).

If I wind up doing a track day, I’ll just swap out the pads – or beat on my buddy’s Miata instead

 

Cool!

Worn beyond turning mean "If I turn them and remove material, I'll be under the minimum thickness". It doesn't always mean "You ARE under the minimum thickness"...

 

Exactly.


What's funny.......is that for the past couple of weeks I'd park on an incline and unless I wrenched the e-brake back all the way, the car would roll back. I kept thinking "WTF is wrong with this thing?!?!?!" So, when I brought it in to have the dealer look at a few other warranty items, I asked if they would do a courtsey adjustment on the e-brake.

So, when the S.A. called to tell me that the reason the e-brake wasn't holding was because the rear brakes were toast , I think he was trying his best not to laugh.

 

Really ?

He (and you) did (do) know that rotor thickness has nothing to do with e-brake performance since the e-brake uses a separate drum style system within the rear rotors ? Just checking...

 

Hmmmm.....................No?


More than likely, they prob. pulled the wheels off first to check the brakes and then didn't bother looking any furthur once they saw how worn they were. I don't know. Just a guess.