I never saw a pic of this combo, so I was a little leery of hearsay....I took the plunge.........and they DO fit

Feeling frisky, as I watched the snow melt, I guessed that Winter is over, so time for the Wonderful 040's.......

All I had to do was remove the OEM wheel weights (PITA), which rubbed the caliper, and reapply aftermarket stick on weights closer to the outer rim.

 

A little closser

 

good to know, i was also leary.... thanks

 

Actually, I now have about 3/16" clearance!

 

Another, close up:

 

That is scary to me. It just seems like it should have some room to breathe.

 

The rule of thumb is that you want at least 1mm of clearance between the calipers and the back of the spokes.

If you want to find out if your wheels will fit without spacers, you can download the following template and print it out, then cut along the dotted line. Insert it into a (dismounted) wheel and rotate it 90 degrees to make sure it clears both the barrel and the spokes.

350Z 332mm brake kit template

EnthuZ - I haven't installed a 350Z kit under this particular wheel before. Would it be OK if I borrowed your photo for my web site? I'm building a wheel library for each platform. Here's an example of one for the BMW E39 5-series and M5 platform: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bmw_instal...photos.htm#E39

Thanks!

 

1 mm is very risky in my opinion.

OEM spec(s) range from 3 to 6 mm at max grown dimensions. (Largest caliper casting + heat)

Also by moving the balance weights, you have effected the dynamic balance of the wheel-tire assembly, but I doubt this will cause too much noticeable vibration.

 

On my MR2 Spyder, I couldn't fit my fingernail between the wheel spokes and caliper on my SSR Comps. Never had any rubbing issue. I was weary at first though!

 

I've been doing this for a long time and I've been doing it with race cars. If a track car doesn't have problems with 1mm of spoke to caliper clearance, then a street car certainly will not. I don't think I would be comfortable with 1mm clearance from the top of the caliper to the barrel of the wheel and, perhaps, that is what you are describing. In that case, we are in agreement, although 2mm is the rule of thumb there.

The weights in this particular case were transplanted outward in the same radial plane as they were originally located. The distance was probably no more than 1/4". While technically, you are correct, the real world effect of this is typically negligible since 1/4" easily fits within the error of your average human operator who stuck the weights on in the first place. Assuming the wheels were perfectly balanced before, it would make sense to remove a tiny bit of weight prior to moving them outboard by 1/4" but if you actually calculated the amount, it would be smaller than the minumum step in weight sizes.

 

Yes, I moved the weights outwards about 1/2", and I do not feel any vibration at all. The wheel spokes clear the caliper about 5/8" or 14mm. I feel comfortable with the set up. The 3/16"(4mm) clearance between the caliper and the wheel "barrel" is more than adequate. Geese, the caliper would have to balloon, say, 30% to cause an issue!

DZeckhausen, feel free to use the pics as you please. My Pay Pal account is:........J/K

 

For Dynamic Balance, Lateral placement is important (not as important as radial, but important just the same.) But the wheels on my car are not dynamically balanced right now, and I no objectionable vibration, so I think the Z is not particularly sensitive to this.

On clearances, I would want more on a road car then a track car... You would be surprised what can make its way between calipers and wheels...

Sound like you are in good shape.