Installing Front Upper A-Arms - Any Recommendations ?
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I did a quick searches in the DIY and Suspension sections.
Seems no one has posted information specifically on swapping the front Upper A-arms. Any recommendations on that project ?
I'm hoping I can leave the strut in place and simply loosen all bolt on the A arm to take it out. Is there anything else I'd need to check/do ?
Seems no one has posted information specifically on swapping the front Upper A-arms. Any recommendations on that project ?
I'm hoping I can leave the strut in place and simply loosen all bolt on the A arm to take it out. Is there anything else I'd need to check/do ?
Its really just common sense and is self explanitory. You will need a fork to separate the joint, though, I have done so many, I generally reverse the nut and give it one quick rap and it pops. Either way, always thread the nut on the new one before hand and make sure there are no burrs.
Good Idea to put a drop of Red Loc-Tite on the mounting bolts
Im quessing you are putting adjustables on ?
Good Idea to put a drop of Red Loc-Tite on the mounting bolts
Im quessing you are putting adjustables on ?
Originally Posted by Kolia
I did a quick searches in the DIY and Suspension sections.
Seems no one has posted information specifically on swapping the front Upper A-arms. Any recommendations on that project ?
I'm hoping I can leave the strut in place and simply loosen all bolt on the A arm to take it out. Is there anything else I'd need to check/do ?
Seems no one has posted information specifically on swapping the front Upper A-arms. Any recommendations on that project ?
I'm hoping I can leave the strut in place and simply loosen all bolt on the A arm to take it out. Is there anything else I'd need to check/do ?
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I'm mounting SPL Race spec adjustable Arms.
I does seem pretty straight forward from the Nissan manual. But the have a tendency to take the whole car appart the way they explain it...
Sounds like I'll get to use the impact hammer!
Thanks guys.
I does seem pretty straight forward from the Nissan manual. But the have a tendency to take the whole car appart the way they explain it...
Sounds like I'll get to use the impact hammer!
Thanks guys.
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I just looked at the car and it seems like it would be much easier to work with the strut out of the way. I won't be able to get the impact driver in there otherwise...
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Hurray !
It took us 3 hours to do the install. I had to loosen on strut to get the rear body screw in and out (spring was exactly in front of it...) but otherwise a text book install.
I'm getting it alligned on Thursday. I'll be driving the Civic untill then...
Thanks guys
It took us 3 hours to do the install. I had to loosen on strut to get the rear body screw in and out (spring was exactly in front of it...) but otherwise a text book install.
I'm getting it alligned on Thursday. I'll be driving the Civic untill then...
Thanks guys
Oh ok, sounds like a pretty simple install. Good to hear, because I think I might need to get some new upper A arms. I only have the eibach kit so I hope they can adjust my camber as it sits with the stock ones.
for my cusco A arm, i actually had to remove the three upper pillowball mounts from my coilovers to get to the two 14mm bolts that attach the legs of the A to the car,
other than that, it was pretty simple. ..those SPL arms look like they have multiple pieces.
which one do u use to adjust for camber, is the spindle nut spin out via threaded bolt or do you use the legs to push out?
other than that, it was pretty simple. ..those SPL arms look like they have multiple pieces.
which one do u use to adjust for camber, is the spindle nut spin out via threaded bolt or do you use the legs to push out?
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The camber adjustment is made at the ball mount. The counter thread will extend both ends at the same time. Pretty neat.
Castor is adjusted via de bearings at the body side.
Castor is adjusted via de bearings at the body side.
Originally Posted by Kolia
The camber adjustment is made at the ball mount. The counter thread will extend both ends at the same time. Pretty neat.
Castor is adjusted via de bearings at the body side.
Castor is adjusted via de bearings at the body side.
I noticed on the inside points the bearings are slightly threaded out. You want to start with them fully threaded in, and only thread them out as necessary for caster adjustment. We have specs on minimum thread engagement listed here:
http://www.splparts.com/doc/SPLFCAZ33/default.htm
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