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Installing Front Upper A-Arms - Any Recommendations ?

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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 07:28 AM
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Default Installing Front Upper A-Arms - Any Recommendations ?

I did a quick searches in the DIY and Suspension sections.

Seems no one has posted information specifically on swapping the front Upper A-arms. Any recommendations on that project ?

I'm hoping I can leave the strut in place and simply loosen all bolt on the A arm to take it out. Is there anything else I'd need to check/do ?
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 07:36 AM
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Its really just common sense and is self explanitory. You will need a fork to separate the joint, though, I have done so many, I generally reverse the nut and give it one quick rap and it pops. Either way, always thread the nut on the new one before hand and make sure there are no burrs.

Good Idea to put a drop of Red Loc-Tite on the mounting bolts

Im quessing you are putting adjustables on ?
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Kolia
I did a quick searches in the DIY and Suspension sections.

Seems no one has posted information specifically on swapping the front Upper A-arms. Any recommendations on that project ?

I'm hoping I can leave the strut in place and simply loosen all bolt on the A arm to take it out. Is there anything else I'd need to check/do ?
If I recall, when I did mine I could not get the bolts out without removing the strut. At the time I had Hotchkis springs on and they have a lot more coils than stock. Its a simple job to do, even if the struts have to come out.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 07:47 AM
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I did not need any fork to separate any joint.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 08:01 AM
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I'm mounting SPL Race spec adjustable Arms.

I does seem pretty straight forward from the Nissan manual. But the have a tendency to take the whole car appart the way they explain it...

Sounds like I'll get to use the impact hammer!

Thanks guys.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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Seems I was able to, on the Z manipulate ( on mine ) the springs to get the bolts out. Prying to the side, extending, so the head would go in the space between the coils etc.
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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I just looked at the car and it seems like it would be much easier to work with the strut out of the way. I won't be able to get the impact driver in there otherwise...
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Old Apr 28, 2007 | 12:20 PM
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When in doubt, Bite the bullit and make an afternoon of it
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Old Apr 29, 2007 | 04:23 PM
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Hurray !

It took us 3 hours to do the install. I had to loosen on strut to get the rear body screw in and out (spring was exactly in front of it...) but otherwise a text book install.

I'm getting it alligned on Thursday. I'll be driving the Civic untill then...

Thanks guys
Attached Thumbnails Installing Front Upper A-Arms - Any Recommendations ?-spl_arms.jpg  
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Old Apr 29, 2007 | 05:06 PM
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Nice looking piece. So you did have to take the one strut out?
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Old Apr 29, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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No not out. I removed the upper mount bolt and then "wiggled" the suspension while my buddy slid the screw in place.
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Old Apr 29, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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Oh ok, sounds like a pretty simple install. Good to hear, because I think I might need to get some new upper A arms. I only have the eibach kit so I hope they can adjust my camber as it sits with the stock ones.
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:38 AM
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for my cusco A arm, i actually had to remove the three upper pillowball mounts from my coilovers to get to the two 14mm bolts that attach the legs of the A to the car,

other than that, it was pretty simple. ..those SPL arms look like they have multiple pieces.

which one do u use to adjust for camber, is the spindle nut spin out via threaded bolt or do you use the legs to push out?
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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 07:56 AM
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The camber adjustment is made at the ball mount. The counter thread will extend both ends at the same time. Pretty neat.

Castor is adjusted via de bearings at the body side.
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Old May 2, 2007 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kolia
The camber adjustment is made at the ball mount. The counter thread will extend both ends at the same time. Pretty neat.

Castor is adjusted via de bearings at the body side.
Hi Kolia!

I noticed on the inside points the bearings are slightly threaded out. You want to start with them fully threaded in, and only thread them out as necessary for caster adjustment. We have specs on minimum thread engagement listed here:

http://www.splparts.com/doc/SPLFCAZ33/default.htm
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Old May 2, 2007 | 08:01 AM
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Cool, I'll be sure to mention that to my mecanic tonight.
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