I have nf210s to install on my 2003 Z. I have done searches but can't find a few basic questions that I have (flame me with "use the search" if you must).

1) The brief little instructions in the box refer to "binding the spring" in the areas where the gaps between the spring narrow. The little illustration, seems to show some type of tape of something wrapped around the spring in those areas. Can anyone give me any information on what you wrap or bind with and whatever else I need to know.

2) The instructions also refer to cutting or removing the rubber bumper stop. Do I need to do this? I am not tracking or racing my Z and I don't have a modded engine or anything but a Pop Charger. I am just lowering the ride (18" after market rims) and trying to not to make it too harsh a ride. I do like to drive fast however.

Can anyone help me out on this.

Oh, I have found all the tutorials (I think) from G35Sedan and others that have posted "how to's" on springs installations.

Thanks, I am going to get started as soon as I find out these answers.

 

IMO, carefully pull off the rubber sleeves glued onto your oem springs and slip them onto your NF210's in the exact same places the Tanabe direction's are telling you.

On the bump stops, your out of luck in the front since their is no soft foam to cut, and what bump stop you do have really cannot be cut at all. The rear does have a foam insert that can be pryed out and cut down. In a perfect world you'd be able to trim both front and rear. IMO, I would trim a measured about off the rear, depending on how long the foam piece is.

Here's a snap shot of your front bump stop, it's the entire dust shield and I cut it in half to show how tall the bump stop is. Keep in mind that the foam bump stop to the right in the picture is a cut down Koni bump stop that I am running.

 

CAn I leave the bump stops alone and not even mess with them?

I appreciate your response and pix of the issue. Thanks

Removed and replaced the rear in about an hour. Pretty easy and simple. I didn't alter anything in the bump stop, just put it all back together.

One more stupid thing, the spring does go in with the tighter wound part of the spring as the top, correct? I hope so, they just seemed to fit naturally that way.

 

cutting the bumpstop allows for oem suspension travel, say stock springs compresses 6 inches before hitting the bumpstop, after springs without cutting bumpstop allows only 4.5 inches

 

Springs that aren't part of a coilover system on the Z pretty much install in one way and one way only. By finishing the install it's all but much certain that you installed the springs correctly. Of course how the springs sit in the upper and lower mounts is one thing, all the other things involved in the install is something else.

On the question of leaving the bump stops alone. I'm remembering something about the NF210's, they aren't really any sitffer then the oem springs. So I see a catch 22. Less suspension travel does mean that cutting them is a good idea. However, you don't have stiffer springs so your more likely to need their protection. I dunno, you can't cut the fronts but you can trim some in the rear. I would look at the length of the foam insert on the rear and trim no more then 1/3 of it's length off. Course it's kinda your call.

Tanabe NF210 Series 350Z linear springs 1.2”/1.2”
Spring rates in LBS 314/353

Oem springs 2003/2004
314/342

Oem springs 2004.5/2007
314/427

 

would trimming the bump stops on these not so stiff springs mean the the wheels would likely rub the wheel wells during hard cornering? or is there some other result that's a lot worse than this due to the increased amount of travel?
thanks

chiShi

 

Thanks guys, I did the front end in about 4 hrs., not to meaning sticking points in the install. The tutorials were great that I found on this forum.

I decided not to cut them and keep the safety of the oem size of bumperstop, since the springs aren't really that much stiffer.

Anyway, with the 18" aftermarket wheels, the fender gap is not 5/8" om the rear and just slightly under 5/8" up front. This measure measurement is from the top of the tire at it highest point. Took it for a spirited drive in the Gold Country of Cali and put about 150 miles on them, then measured.

Pretty pleased with the look and with the handling and the ride comfort.

Thanks for the help.

 

If you have a tire and wheel combo that can rub within the suspension's entire travel range, then the the answer would be yes. What would be worse, easing into a corner and the spring rate spikes infinitely as you run out of travel and the bumpstop becomes the spring so to speak. Though as someone that got to hear what tire rub sounds like, ummm you don't want that either. I'm lucky I just pulled my 10mm spacers and problem solved. Guess the real key is be more carefull in making tire and rim choices so we know they can't rub.

 

I too am not installing but having them done...professionally..better then me trust..

I have 19 by 9.5 and 10.5 w/a 22 offset all around..

I dont want rubbing..but I want as less of a fender gap as possible...

My shop is installing tomorrow..should they cut the recommended 15-25 mm..of the bumper stop ?....I dont want to cut up my tires...around corners..

Thx..sorry to jack your thread.

 

Wow, so would you say tht the 4.5" of suspension travel is enough for autox and some track events? I'm planning on maybe autox'ing a few events and definitely tracking a few events (one is a fast track, Thunderhill), and being a relative newbie at all this, I don't want the car to bottom and me go spinning into a wall or something.

 

A friend of mine sold them the land, he runs a hunting club directlly north of the track. At the right time of the year, I'm sure you hear a lot of shotgun blasts when you are there.

 

Thanks for the help, guys. After the install and a week of settling (agressive driving thru the foothills) I now have the following space between fender and the top of the tire: Front 1/2" , Rear 5/8". This is on 18" wheels with 245/40 F and 275/40 R. I need to get some pictures to show you guys how it came out. I will wash the car and take some pix and post this weekend.

BTW, even on the nf210s the handling has improved tremendously.
Questions:

1. should I wait any longer before getting it aligned?

2. Is there anyway to visual tell and or measure the camber the to see if I should add a camber kit prior to taking it to the alignment shop.

3. One more thing, I hear people talking about SPC suspension parts and SPL suspension parts, which ones are the better bang for the buck?

Thanks, again.