How to remove rear rotors?
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: USA
Originally Posted by kvp35
I just replaced my front rotors and pads, replaced the rear pads because I couldnt get the damn thing off? What is the little rubber thing (looks like a flat head should go in there?) I ended up pushing the **** in and left it there because I couldnt get the damn thing off. The rotors look ok....it is normal to get a little pulsing when you put all new pads on or is something warped? I bed them in 60-10mph stops a few times till the smell of brakes made me sick a little smoke...it works well but I want it to be smooth like when I got the Z any suggestions?
Your new brakes shouldn't vibrate if installed correctly.
More unnecessary beating up on you rear rotors. I'm going to quote the entire post, rather than link to it, so everyone can easily see that there is no need to get violent on your rear rotors...
From this thread, post #5. https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....70#post3173770
From this thread, post #5. https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....70#post3173770
You need to loosen the parking brake shoes. There is a little rubber plug on your rotor. Align this plug so it is at 11 or 12 o'clock. Then remove the plug. Now, with a flathead screwdriver, you need to turn the adjuster to loosen the parking brake shoes. If you do this, the rotor will come off freely just as the fronts. I see too many threads of people pounding away, when that is totally unnecessary and probably damages your parking brake system and rotors. The FSM is your friend:
Once you have replaced your rotor or completed whatever work you are doing, you need to re-adjust the parking brake. From the FSM:
Cheers
Once you have replaced your rotor or completed whatever work you are doing, you need to re-adjust the parking brake. From the FSM:
Cheers
^^^ I'm trying to remove my rear rotors right now and adjusting the parking break does absolutely NOTHING. I followed the write-ups, stuck the screwdriver into the hole in the rotor, turned the little wheel the proper direction... Those rotors might as well be welded on there. I'm really not sure how much more hammering they or I can take... I'm off to try some more....
***HALLELUJA - I FOUND THE SOLUTION - Basically take a sledgehammer, wrap the end in a towel and hit the outside edge of the rotor at a slightly inward angle. I'm talking a big *** sledghammer. No ***** *** rubber mallets for these rotors.***
***HALLELUJA - I FOUND THE SOLUTION - Basically take a sledgehammer, wrap the end in a towel and hit the outside edge of the rotor at a slightly inward angle. I'm talking a big *** sledghammer. No ***** *** rubber mallets for these rotors.***
Last edited by Bret86944; Oct 12, 2008 at 10:56 AM. Reason: added a solution to my problem - i love when that happens
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: 808
I just replaced a rear wheel stud and had to remove my rear driver side rotor. I followed the instructions the guitman32 posted up and the rotors came off with just a little wiggle. There was no need to beat the crap outta my car with a sledgehammer...reading all of that was scaring me. The hardest part was getting the brake caliper bracket bolts loose. Thanks guitman!
I just replaced a rear wheel stud and had to remove my rear driver side rotor. I followed the instructions the guitman32 posted up and the rotors came off with just a little wiggle. There was no need to beat the crap outta my car with a sledgehammer...reading all of that was scaring me. The hardest part was getting the brake caliper bracket bolts loose. Thanks guitman!
I read this thread because I could not get off my rear rotor, even after adjusting the parking brake. I found another suggestion using the bolt and nut to push the rotor off from the back and it worked!
here is what I did: bought a bolt (2 inches length), two washers and a nut to fit it. Cost me about $1. Put one of the washers through the bolt, then the bolt through the hole that the caliper screws into with the open end towards the rotor. Then the 2nd washer and then screw on the nut. Hold the nut so it doesn't move and turn the bolt. The bolt will soon reach the back of the rotor. Continue to screw in the bolt and the rotor will POP off. Note: I was replacing the rotors so I didn't worry about the indents the bolt made in the rotor, but putting something hard between the rotor and the bolt will help.
I attached a picture with the rotor off and the bolt in the top hole where the caliper goes. Hope this helps someone who has the same problem.
here is what I did: bought a bolt (2 inches length), two washers and a nut to fit it. Cost me about $1. Put one of the washers through the bolt, then the bolt through the hole that the caliper screws into with the open end towards the rotor. Then the 2nd washer and then screw on the nut. Hold the nut so it doesn't move and turn the bolt. The bolt will soon reach the back of the rotor. Continue to screw in the bolt and the rotor will POP off. Note: I was replacing the rotors so I didn't worry about the indents the bolt made in the rotor, but putting something hard between the rotor and the bolt will help.
I attached a picture with the rotor off and the bolt in the top hole where the caliper goes. Hope this helps someone who has the same problem.
Mine is having the same problem... I have cross drilled and slotted fronts but the rears are stokk cuz i gave up i might have to try this gear pulling thing... ive never used or heard of that before. thanks 
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 187
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From: Southern Oregon
When I had to remove mine: banging didn't work, PB blaster and other substitutes didn't work. Torch did the job. Heat up the studs and around them. Within 2 min I noticed the rotor was creeping down the studs. No drama.
I'm replacing my rear brakes right now too, so pads and rotors. My rear wouldnt come off either, then i performed steps 1 and 2, and boom it came off easy. NO HAMMERS NEEDED.
Now im stuck on how to adjust the parking break once everything is back on
Step 1:
Step 2: (if needed)
paraphrasing Chia
here is what I did: bought 2 bolts (3 inches length) and a nut to fit each. Put a bolt into the caliper holes so the bolts go into the rotor. Hold the nut so it doesn't move and turn the bolt. The bolt will soon reach the back of the rotor. Continue to screw in the bolt and the rotor will POP off. Note: I was replacing the rotors so I didn't worry about the indents the bolt made in the rotor, but putting something hard between the rotor and the bolt will help.
Now im stuck on how to adjust the parking break once everything is back on
Step 1:
Step 2: (if needed)
paraphrasing Chia
here is what I did: bought 2 bolts (3 inches length) and a nut to fit each. Put a bolt into the caliper holes so the bolts go into the rotor. Hold the nut so it doesn't move and turn the bolt. The bolt will soon reach the back of the rotor. Continue to screw in the bolt and the rotor will POP off. Note: I was replacing the rotors so I didn't worry about the indents the bolt made in the rotor, but putting something hard between the rotor and the bolt will help.
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