Changing rotors/pads/fluid/lines soon, bleed all last?
#1
Changing rotors/pads/fluid/lines soon, bleed all last?
Quick question or two,
I have searched and read multiple HOW-TO's. Would the people who have done a 4 wheels rotor/pad/lines and swapped fluid recommend bleeding each caliper as you get finished with each rotor/pad swap, or just do all 4 and then go around in the order specified in the FSM and bleed the brakes? Or does it matter?
Also, in order to swap the fluid, I assume that I could just use the bleeder valve on each caliper to pump out the burnt fluid with the brake pedal, watching the level in the resivior of course as to not get air in the brake cyl. If you did this on each wheel, would the system then be "flushed"? Or is there more I need to do?
Thanks in advance for your time!
Neil
I have searched and read multiple HOW-TO's. Would the people who have done a 4 wheels rotor/pad/lines and swapped fluid recommend bleeding each caliper as you get finished with each rotor/pad swap, or just do all 4 and then go around in the order specified in the FSM and bleed the brakes? Or does it matter?
Also, in order to swap the fluid, I assume that I could just use the bleeder valve on each caliper to pump out the burnt fluid with the brake pedal, watching the level in the resivior of course as to not get air in the brake cyl. If you did this on each wheel, would the system then be "flushed"? Or is there more I need to do?
Thanks in advance for your time!
Neil
#2
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Wait till you swap all the parts first and then bleed last. You will need two people to do the bleeding to be absolutely sure there are no air bubbles remaining in the system. Read this.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml
#3
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You should bleed each corner of the car as you finish the installation of those parts. That way, if you have a problem getting a firm pedal, you will know that it's the corner you are working on now that is the source of the problem. If you wait until you've changed pads and lines at all four corners, it will be harder to get enough pressure in the system as you pump the pedal. And you won't know, until the last caliper, if you've gotten all the air out of the system. And if it's still soft, you'll have to go back and do all the other corners again.
Finally, if you work each corner to completion, you don't need to get the car up on jackstands and get all the wheels off at the same time. So if you get an unexpected call from the wife, reminding you about that wedding you have to attend in two hours, you can just wrap up that corner, button up the car, and have enough time to get where you need to go. If the entire car is in pieces and you don't have a spare ride (or can't leave the car unattended in that condition), then you're kind of screwed if something comes up.
Here are some instructions for effective bleeding: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm. As dklau33 mentioned, you're better off with two people performing the bleeding, rather than using any of the various "1-person" bleeding techniques.
Finally, if you work each corner to completion, you don't need to get the car up on jackstands and get all the wheels off at the same time. So if you get an unexpected call from the wife, reminding you about that wedding you have to attend in two hours, you can just wrap up that corner, button up the car, and have enough time to get where you need to go. If the entire car is in pieces and you don't have a spare ride (or can't leave the car unattended in that condition), then you're kind of screwed if something comes up.
Here are some instructions for effective bleeding: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm. As dklau33 mentioned, you're better off with two people performing the bleeding, rather than using any of the various "1-person" bleeding techniques.
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