Machining Rotors with every pad change??
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Just went to the dealership yesterday after getting back from ZdayZ and they claim I need to have the front brakes done. They want to charge me 300+ before taxes
. I tell them ill do it myself and thanks but they also claimed i need to have the rotors machined. I personaly have never heard of having to have the rotors machinined (sp?) every time i change the brake pads.
I have brembo brakes if that makes a difference and he also told me new pads would be ruined the second they touched the new rotors if i didn't have them machined so im thinking dealership scam...whats new.
Any advise would be great.
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I have brembo brakes if that makes a difference and he also told me new pads would be ruined the second they touched the new rotors if i didn't have them machined so im thinking dealership scam...whats new.
Any advise would be great.
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If the steering wheel isn't wobbling when you brake and there are no visible groves/pits in the rotors, you don't need to machine them....
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Originally Posted by vo7848
If the steering wheel isn't wobbling when you brake and there are no visible groves/pits in the rotors, you don't need to machine them....
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Originally Posted by Chaser720
I figured he was full of ish.
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Originally Posted by davidv
I turn the rotors before installing new pads. The problem is that rotor specs allow minimal wear. If you have, say, 40,000 miles on the rotors, then turn them, they will be out of spec.
i would turn the rotors if you are putting a diff pad on it. ie going from stock to axxis. if you are putting a stock pad back on it then don't worry about it.
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The OEM Brembo pads are very rotor friendly. My rotors had 37,000mi on them before I sold them and they had approx another 10K to go and the rotors were perfect. That was with one track day at sebring with 670HP. I wouldn't resurface the rotors unless there was some reason to. I would jsut throw a new set of pads on there and chaneg the fluid if it's never been changed.
JET
JET
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You should machine the rotors because of the different pad materials. There is a layer of brake material on the rotors from the old pads, the essence of how brakes work. You could get noise if you don't resurface them. The thinner the rotor, the less heat it can absorb, the worse it works....I always just replace the rotors...not economical, but it maximizes performance.
I have the stock non-brembos using HPS pads and Powerslot rotors
I have the stock non-brembos using HPS pads and Powerslot rotors
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I dunno 'bout our Zeds, but I sold a Maxima with 6O,OOOk+ on it, & I never had to machine the rotors or get new calipers. All it needed was pads. If you
let the stealership steer you, you'll end up with a few hundred dollars less in your bank account!---did I say "hundreds"? How 'bout thousands???! Just don't let the rotors get "grooved" by the indicators--if I'm using the right term--that produce the high-pitched shriek when they're worn out.
let the stealership steer you, you'll end up with a few hundred dollars less in your bank account!---did I say "hundreds"? How 'bout thousands???! Just don't let the rotors get "grooved" by the indicators--if I'm using the right term--that produce the high-pitched shriek when they're worn out.
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Turning rotors is a scam.It is only needed if you have a pulsation in the pedal from uneven pad deposits on the rotors. Even when changing from one pad brand to another that thin transfer layer will wear off in a short time as the new pads bed in.
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Turning your rotors every pad change will degrade them faster and cause them to heat up faster and longer which in turn will cause them to warp and then you will need to replace them.
Just change your pads if you see no visible wear marks and have no unusual feedback when applying the brakes.
Just change your pads if you see no visible wear marks and have no unusual feedback when applying the brakes.
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No machine, just change the pads a little early to save your rotors. If there are no visible gouge or marks on the rotors you should be good. I changed my pads at 25k, the pads were probably good for another 5k miles but better a little early than a little too late. I am at 51k and have a slight wobble during hard braking, so time for new rotors, I will do the pads too so they match fresh for fresh. Stock Brembos.
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I have replaced pads without turning the rotor and gotten pulsing (remember: it's after the change you can get the pulsing from not turning, not only a preexisting condition). and the two other times I have changed the pads and turned the rotors I did not get pulsing through the life of the pads.
and this is without having pulsing before changing the pads any of the times.
I would turn them if you can. it costs 10 bucks a rotor or thereabouts. it's worth it, they are consumable anyway, so if it means you replace the rotors 1 pad change shorter, so be it.
and this is without having pulsing before changing the pads any of the times.
I would turn them if you can. it costs 10 bucks a rotor or thereabouts. it's worth it, they are consumable anyway, so if it means you replace the rotors 1 pad change shorter, so be it.
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WOW, some of these reponses are just funny, YES always turn/service/machine your rotors. Yes you can get away with it, but there is a tradeoff both ways. Turning the rotors does two things; 1. It beds your new pads in faster without excess heat which helps prevent early glazing of the rotor. Glazing will eventually occur on the rotors but your broken-in pad will be ready to work with it. An already glazed rotor needs more foot time to stop which means heat for longer period of time on unseated pads. You need to create a new mating surface with every pad to get best efficiency(lack of brade fade). This will also decreases the chances you warp your rotor and you can warp the stock rotor without much difficulty with lots of heat from not bedding the new pad. This increases the life of each pad but decreases the life of each rotor (because you are servicing the rotor). However after about 3 turns you should replace the rotor anyway, but you should definitely be able to get 2 turns out of it so long as you replace pad prior to the warning (piece of metal that scuffs the rotor). After servicing the rotors twice you have already gone through 3 sets of pads (stocks pads plus a set for each servicing). At which point you should have money to either upgrade your brakes or are able to afford new OEM rotors. Either way I wouldn't trade off a lack of brake fade for a mere 10 bucks a rotor sevicing