To compress or not to compress
#1
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To compress or not to compress
As you may know I am purchasing some BC racing coils for my Z.......but I am trying to learn as much as I can about the process of getting them installed.....my 1st question is whether or not I need to compress any of the old suspension parts(front or rear), when removing anything. I dont want a spring flying outta control and killing me.
and will I need to compress in-order to remove similar parts, as seen below
and will I need to compress in-order to remove similar parts, as seen below
#2
hatersgonnahate
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if your not removing the front springs from the shocks.......you will not need a spring compressor.
For the rears you use your jack to slowly let the bucket down while the spring uncompresses. Then you push the bucket down and remove.
Fronts will just drop out with the springs still compressed by the top hat. If you plan to remove the spring from the strut then youll need compressors for safety.
For the rears you use your jack to slowly let the bucket down while the spring uncompresses. Then you push the bucket down and remove.
Fronts will just drop out with the springs still compressed by the top hat. If you plan to remove the spring from the strut then youll need compressors for safety.
#3
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Originally Posted by Chris @ Migliore
For the rears you use your jack to slowly let the bucket down while the spring uncompresses. Then you push the bucket down and remove.
Originally Posted by Chris @ Migliore
Fronts will just drop out with the springs still compressed by the top hat. If you plan to remove the spring from the strut then youll need compressors for safety.
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I think using spring compressors is pointless unless you're installing stock springs on the front. I installed Tokico D-Spec springs and shocks on my car and didn't use a spring compressor. You certainly don't need to use one to get the shock/spring unit off the car. Then, once it's off, just lay it in the grass with your foot on the spring and top plate, and undo the center shock shaft nut. Once undone, the spring will extend a bit and shoot the shock, but it only goes about 8 inches or so. Certainly not a big deal in my book. I've used this method for each of the past 4 cars of various makes/models that I've installed springs or coilovers on, and have never used a spring compressor.
Here are the instructions I used roughly. Worked great.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/318335-diy-spring-installation-2-revised-by-yusoslo.html
Here are the instructions I used roughly. Worked great.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/318335-diy-spring-installation-2-revised-by-yusoslo.html
Last edited by nramsey; 07-03-2008 at 06:23 PM.
#7
hatersgonnahate
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^because its easy as pie.
Maybe i can clear the rears up for you
the spring in the rear is not on the strut. It sits in a bucket off to the side. Once you have the car in the air, supported and the wheel off youll see what i mean.
Theres one bolt you have to remove from the lower control arm. Use your jack to push up on the bucket to help remove some tension. Remove the bolt and then slowly lower your jack. The spring will push the bucket down with the jack. Remove the jack, push down on the bucket and pull the spring out.
Remove the two bolts from the top of the strut the rear will be out. Swap in the new parts and install in reverse.
For the fronts:
remove the bolt for the brake line
remove the bolt from the lower control arm.
remove the cotter pin and bolt from the upper control arm. Separate the upper control arm and the front hub arm from each other.
remove the three nuts from the top of the strut.
strut and spring will drop out, work it around a bit and take it out.
Install the new coilovers in reverse and use a new cotter pin.
************Be sure to have both wheels on the front or rear unloaded and off the ground when you are working on either set. Sway bar will mess with ya if you dont***********88
Total time with the right tools and a helper: 3hrs..........tops
tools you need:
17mm socket
17mm wrench
12mm deep
10mm deep
12in extension
tq wrench
cotter pins, pliers
21mm socket for lugs
breaker bar
Maybe i can clear the rears up for you
the spring in the rear is not on the strut. It sits in a bucket off to the side. Once you have the car in the air, supported and the wheel off youll see what i mean.
Theres one bolt you have to remove from the lower control arm. Use your jack to push up on the bucket to help remove some tension. Remove the bolt and then slowly lower your jack. The spring will push the bucket down with the jack. Remove the jack, push down on the bucket and pull the spring out.
Remove the two bolts from the top of the strut the rear will be out. Swap in the new parts and install in reverse.
For the fronts:
remove the bolt for the brake line
remove the bolt from the lower control arm.
remove the cotter pin and bolt from the upper control arm. Separate the upper control arm and the front hub arm from each other.
remove the three nuts from the top of the strut.
strut and spring will drop out, work it around a bit and take it out.
Install the new coilovers in reverse and use a new cotter pin.
************Be sure to have both wheels on the front or rear unloaded and off the ground when you are working on either set. Sway bar will mess with ya if you dont***********88
Total time with the right tools and a helper: 3hrs..........tops
tools you need:
17mm socket
17mm wrench
12mm deep
10mm deep
12in extension
tq wrench
cotter pins, pliers
21mm socket for lugs
breaker bar
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#8
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Originally Posted by Chris @ Migliore
^because its easy as pie.
just two questions come to mind....
1. Should I remove the front sway bar completely, or is just jacking both side off the front good enough.
2. If I get a torque wrench.....how would I know the recomend lbs ft. torque for each part.
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Originally Posted by Chris @ Migliore
dont remove the sway bar.........just have both front tires off the ground or both rears off the ground or all four.
FSM..............what year is your Z.
FSM..............what year is your Z.
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