Rotors / Breaks
#1
Rotors / Breaks
Two things:
One, my garage where I take my Z said I need new rotors and brakes on the front end. Now....I don't feel any in the front end nor do I feel anything in the brake petal. I did however look at my front rotors and there is a little lip on them. Does that mean I need new rotors? They told me they can't resurface them or turn them anymore. 75k miles on the car.
Second, what are good rotors and brakes to buy for my Z? Any suggestions?
Thanks
One, my garage where I take my Z said I need new rotors and brakes on the front end. Now....I don't feel any in the front end nor do I feel anything in the brake petal. I did however look at my front rotors and there is a little lip on them. Does that mean I need new rotors? They told me they can't resurface them or turn them anymore. 75k miles on the car.
Second, what are good rotors and brakes to buy for my Z? Any suggestions?
Thanks
#2
This needs to be moved to the brake and wheel section. But good brakes with very minimal dust for DD is the Hawk Pro Ceramic Brake pads and I would go with Stoptech rotors, both decently cheap.
#7
The "lip" on your rotor is not really a problem. The brake pads do not go all the way to the outside edge of the rotor, so over time a "lip" will develop there. Opinions may differ, but I don't think the lip is an issue at all.
The statement "they can't resurface them or turn them anymore" might be the truth. At some point, continual resurfacing will make them too thin and weak and dangerous. Most rotors usually have a stamped thickness spec somewhere along the edge or the back of the rotor showing the minimum thickness. Once you grind it down to that point, you need new rotors. Hopefully your brake shop knows that thickness spec and is actually measuring it.
There's also a school of thought that resurfacing brake rotors is completely un-necessary unless they are warped. You could just keep replacing only the pads virtually forever. Sure, if you are racing for money, resurfacing them frequently is a good idea. But on a street car it really isn't all that necessary. If you have a shop do your brakes, they are probably going to resurface them everytime. ... It's just part of the package. It helps them sell rotors and helps them gaurentee their work.
Since I do that stuff myself, I'd probably just put new pads on it and keep on rollin.
The statement "they can't resurface them or turn them anymore" might be the truth. At some point, continual resurfacing will make them too thin and weak and dangerous. Most rotors usually have a stamped thickness spec somewhere along the edge or the back of the rotor showing the minimum thickness. Once you grind it down to that point, you need new rotors. Hopefully your brake shop knows that thickness spec and is actually measuring it.
There's also a school of thought that resurfacing brake rotors is completely un-necessary unless they are warped. You could just keep replacing only the pads virtually forever. Sure, if you are racing for money, resurfacing them frequently is a good idea. But on a street car it really isn't all that necessary. If you have a shop do your brakes, they are probably going to resurface them everytime. ... It's just part of the package. It helps them sell rotors and helps them gaurentee their work.
Since I do that stuff myself, I'd probably just put new pads on it and keep on rollin.
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#8
If they are a trustworthy shop , they are probably just letting you know the rotors are at minimum thickness.
Personally i suggest centric rotors (blanks ) and EBC greens for street use. They will also serve you well for canyon runs.
Personally i suggest centric rotors (blanks ) and EBC greens for street use. They will also serve you well for canyon runs.
#10
Originally Posted by Get_Zwole
Still looking through the owners manual at breaks havent found what your thread is titles about?
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11-11-2015 08:40 PM