hi everybody
as some of you know i still have some trouble wiht my stop tech bbk.
(the pads rubbed all the time at the surcfae of the rotor).i bleeded the fronts again--> pedal feel after teh bleed was better than before.but iīm still not quiet sure if the problem is solved.
i even meassured the surface temperatur of the rotors and both seem to be the same hot.
so know here are my questions:
are these rotors warped???or still ok??

front right rubbed the most at the beginning:

front left didnīt rubbed at all(i guess):




so i marked today my rotors with a pen and drove the car out of the garage just to look how bad they rubb.boht marks where nearly erased on some spots( not the hole line).is this normal???? i guess not. could anyone do me a favor and do the same thing on his rotors and post some pics???

next question do you think that it could be a wrong routed brake line?cause i couldnīt route the brake line as mentioned in the manual, cause otherwise they were to short. ??????

and last but not least, do you think it could be because of the banjo bolts???
because stop tech sent me a wrong one for the front with the kit.lucky enough i had some banjo bolt over from my race bike which where same diameter but i think they where a little bit longer then the one delivered with the bbk.

what i also noticed was on my last test drive all off the sudden the brake pedal felt kind a wierd.first it was like "normal" and then it was pretty loose (no couldnīt be pad knockback since i was driving on a straight road and had to brake becasue of the traffic).

could anyone help cause i have to pass TUV (carb) and such as things are i wont pass it.

 

No one will be able to tell you if the are warped based on pictures...Warpage is measured in teeny tiny increments.

Put them on a lathe, then you'll know if they are warped.

What exactly is the problem your experiencing? If its pedal feel- you likely have air in the lines...or the ABS module (god I hope you didn't get air in there.).

A warped rotor is going to give you a shimmy when you get on the brakes, esp at higher speeds.

 

Based on the pics, I'd say one side(rotor/1st picture) was not bedding in properly just from looking at the resin left over on the rotor. As we have told you many of times, you're rotors are highly unlikely to be warped. Keep in mind, the pads are always rubbing alittle bit, even when your foot is not on the brake pedal. Your rotors should always look like the 2nd picture, after driving.

Did you put a pen marking across the entire surface of the rotor on the 1st pic? I would use a black permanent Sharpie Marker on the rotor in the 1st pic, then drive it a few miles to determine if certain parts of the rotor are not making contact with the pads. It could be a simple fix, like just replacing your pads.

As far as your brake line goes. You must be talking about your front brake line. The Stoptech brake line is too short to fit through the factory fastener that is located on the "knuckle assembly"(the long metal peice that connects your rotor to the upper control arm). You have to remove the factory metal fastener with a 10mm socket and relocate it higher up on the knuckle assembly. This also requires you to kind of bend the fasterner a bit with some pliers to manipulate it so the brake line will feed through it....

 

those are warped, of course that is using my keen eyesight and judging from pictures of rotors still on a car with the wheel on. time for you to buy new ones i'm afraid

 

ok warped was maybe the wrong word....thermal shocked, would be better...maybe

 

The only way to know is remove them and check run-out.

 

I'm gonna go with NO

 

Why didn't I remember that. Yes, that is correct. According to my Stoptech tech supplier publication. On page 3, section 5.2 sub-section A, it says that exact rotor means they have thermal shock. Yup, you should go ahead and order another set...

 

your kiddin rigth .....????

 

How about you ship your brakes to me, I'll slap em on my car and see if I have any problems. I'll keep you updated!

 

just trying to show off teh bbk & wheels? lame. yep, those looked warped alright. time to get new ones. lol.

 

Runout specification is 0.0028" max, while most techs have runout gauges.
No TRUE performance driver should be without one!

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/STO-3D103.html

A better way to fix warped hubs before you attack warped rotors:
http://www.brakealign.com/pages/diagram.htm

 

You don't have enough manliness in you to warp them. What's the next problem we can help you fix with your new brakes?

 

Why is there rust on the rotors and how do I removed it?

 

yeah pretty funny......noooooot!!!! this forum sucks more and more

 

Noooo.... It's pretty much always sucked this much!