I participated in my first Track Day (Thunderhill, NorCal) over the weekend. I ran my very close to stock 04 performance 350Z harder than its ever been run before and loved every second of it. All day long I was passing the likes of NSXs, S2000s, Evo's, Mustangs, and various other cars. I was never challenged to pass by someone behind. I say this not to toot my own horn but to give an idea of how hard I ran the car (ok, maybe i'm tooting a lil LoL).

Around my 5th lapping session the "BRAKE" dashboard light started to come on. The same light that appears when you pull your e-brake.

In addition, during my 6th session the "VDC OFF" light came on as well as the "SLIP" light. These lights constantly remain lit now.

I suspect that this has something to do with the breaks. Right before my track day I installed Hawk HPS pads, ATE super blue, had the back rotors turned, and the front rotors replaced. I drove around on this setup for 4 days before the event. I believe I also did the proper exercises to bed the pads.

I did a little inspecting when I got home from the track and found that my rear rotors are badly scored with peaks and valleys tracing around the center of the rotor face. The new front rotors held up fairly well (raybestos advanced tech).

I'm hoping after turning the front rotors again and replacing the rear rotors the dash board lights will turn off. Any one experience this?? Have any advice on the problems and fixes?

I'm not looking for advice like "get a bbk" or "buy XYZ brand [insert product]" cuz chances are those products will disqual me from my auto-x class.

I want to know what tripped these lights, how to fix, and how to avoid tripping them on my next track day.

Thanks.

 

You might have more luck addressing this to the Track/Autocross forum.
Glad you enjoyed your track day. The Z is really in it's element on a proper road course. Your lights came on because the VDC isn't used to that kind of driving and thinks something is wrong. The yaw sensor gets angry. The best bet is to turn off your VDC before entering the track, though the lights will still come on sometimes, especially if you drift or spin. After you shut down and restart a few times, the lights usually go out. You can also pull the VDC fuse for the event. Have you tried disconnecting the battery overnight to see if that resets the computer? Have you driven a significant # of miles since returning from the track?
You may get the same problems when running tires that are all the same size instead of staggered. At any rate, the ABS works regardless of the VDC, which is to our benefit.
The rear brakes are enemy#1 at the track. They just weren't cut out for the task. There are plenty of great recommendations on the "track pad database" in the track forum. The HPS pads are the minimum that you can get away with IMO. I picked up a spare set of rotors for track days so as not to screw up the ones for daily driving. As much as I drift and do DE's, I've never had the lights stay on for more than a day though.

 

1) Low brake fluid.
2) Worn out brake pads (too thin).

 

Glad you enjoyed yourself. HPDE should be everyone's “first mod.”

Sorry but I don't know how to fix the light.

 

I always turn off the VDC before every track or autox session.

I've noticed before that the VDC/SLIP light comes on sometimes even when turned on. I've found that usually if you turn off the car and start it again the lights reset.

It's different this time as the lights stayed on all the way home from the track (90 miles) and remain on. I've thought about disconnecting the battery but i'm sure the lights will come on again cuz the problem isn't addressed.

The car hasn't left my garage since getting home Friday. It's not my DD so no worries there.

 

That should be on speed dial.

 

I think i'm well on my way to buying more than one set of pads and rotors. I was actually pretty disappointed in the brakes. Fade and breaking distance was increasing with each session. I was using HPS pads and they just don't cut it after 2-3 sessions.

Agreed about enemy #1 is the rear brakes. My back OEM rotors look like they are destroyed.

 

Whats up dave.
It's not cuz of low brake fluid. That was the first thing I checked. I'm still halfway between min->max.

I hope its not cuz of the pads ... those were new pads dammit. LoL

 

no add fluid. the light will go off.

 

I'll give it a try to check it out. I'll still need to get some rear rotors. The OEM ones are garbage. I had to replace the front ones w/ my first break job and the rears are trashed after the track.

I would hope for more from Nissan.

 

It's been pretty commonly reported that low fluid will cause all the lights to trigger, especially if the pads are worn. What's you describe isn't exactly what I'd expect it to happen under, but it never hurts to check the obvious first.

 

ok ... i'll add some fluid and see if the lights go out. before the track day my fluid level was max. now its 1/2 way between min and max. I wouldn't think that would be low enough to trigger but i guess maybe it is.

we'll see...

 

I had the same prob....my fluid was low

 

If ALL the lights are on, then it might have something to do with the ABS control unit. check the connection near your brake fluid box, and the connector leading directly into the aluminum block that all the brake lines are feeding into.. your recent brake fluid flush, hopefully did not damage and of the wiring (brake fluid eating through the rubber coating) of the ABS control unit.

another check is to see if the sensor on the axels are still where there are supposed to be, you might have somehow knocked them off with going off track or hitting something that bounced back up..

also here is a line from BRC-97 on the warning lights.
"ABS, EBD SYSTEM
In case of electrical problems with the ABS, the ABS warning lamp, VDC OFF indicator lamp and SLIP indicator lamp will turn on. In case of electrical problem with the EBD, Brake (EBD) warning lamp, ABS warning nlamp, VDC OFF indicator lamp and SLIP indicator lamp will turn on. Simultaneously, the VDC/ TCS/ABS become one of the following conditions of the Fail-Safe function.
1. For ABS trouble, only the EBD is activated and the condition of the vehicle is the same condition of vehicles without TCS/ABS equipment.
2. For EBD trouble, the EBD and ABS become inoperative, and the condition of the vehicle is the same asthe condition of vehicles without TCS/ABS, EBD equipment"


see attached, this will tell you where all the sensors for the ABS/TCS/VDC system are..

 

I filled up the brake fluid reservoir and the lights all 3 lights didn't come back on when i started the car again. You guys were right... I did appear to be the brake fluid.

Chebosto ... thanks for pointing out the brake fluid spillage problem. I did overflow the reservoir inlet the first time i poured fluid. I thought I had it all cleaned up but there was still a very small amount inside the connector housing. I cleaned it up so hopefully there is no further problems.

All lights are out now! Thanks guys!

 

just to clarify, those pictures you attached are for a Right hand drive spec 350Z...

-J

 

glad you got it figured out....

-j

 

HA. i guess ur right.. that came right out of my 03 manual..

looks like nissan flipped the image..

 

I got the VDC & SLIP light while driving tonight. But in addition, I got the SES light as well. I turned the car off, SES light was on....other lights were gone......drove down the highway and the VDC & SLIP came back on. My rear rotors have some grooves in them as of lately (new pads are fairly new though). I have my battery disconnected right now. Brake fluid is the next check.

But my question is...would any of this set off the SES light???

 

hope you didnt fill up on brake fluid before changing your pads if they were also worn down.

I had those lights on as well, my pads were worn down and my fluid was low.. new pads and a dash of fluid and they all went away.