Z33@TOR

which brake lines do u racers recommand for the track brembos?
thanks

Audito350Z

iTrader: (1)

I use the Goodridge lines available at Tirerack
www.tirerack.com

PeteH

daytona350z

iTrader: (19)

i purchased a set of techna-fit from http://www.splparts.com/

very happy with em

lancerjs

Unitech Racing uses the StopTech brake line kit on the #33 GAC race car the quality is excellent and they fit perfectly

J Ritt

iTrader: (4)

I'm running the StopTech lines as well. They are really nice and well constructed.

raceboy

Stoptech!

MY350Z.COM

iTrader: (2)

Another one for STOPTECH!

Bob Lee rocks!

get the lines at http://www.zeckhausen.com

Victor

SandMan

Stoptech, never had a problem and you do not lose the firm brake pedal feel.

cobrasak

what does the steel braided lines actually do. Does it make the pedal feel more firm opposed to a soft feeling like it is now? Also how could I make the brakes feel firm maybe some pads.

MY350Z.COM

iTrader: (2)

steel braided lines don't expand as opposed to rubber lines.

so you have a firm pedal feel.

cobrasak

Hmm sounds like a worthy mod, and maybe some pads later on

DeeZee

iTrader: (2)

how hard is it to change the lines? ive never tried/needed to?

DZeckhausen

It's actually a misconception that the steel braid is what makes the lines firmer. They are simply there to protect the inner line which is made from extruded Teflon.

The Teflon line does not expand like a factory fabric-reinforced rubber line, however it is very delicate and will fail if abraded or nicked. Thus, the stainless braid is placed over the outside to protect it from road debris or suspension components.

Some brake line manufacturers (e.g., StopTech) also put an additional layer of clear plastic on top of the stainless braid. This serves two purposes. First, it prevents the stainless steel from corroding. (Even stainless rusts eventually.) Second, it prevents small particles of grit from working their way through the stainless weave and attacking the fragile Teflon line inside. The StopTech lines are truely lifetime lines, whereas some other non-covered lines should be replaced every few years.

What do these lines do for you? If you're familier with bleeding brakes, the effect of adding stainless lines is the same as what you would experience getting a few small bubbles out of the system. The pedal is firmer under hard braking and the response is more linear. It's a subtle change, not as dramatic as a 4-piston StopTech big brake kit. But it is noticable. And if you are tracking the car and performing heel/toe downshifts, it gives you a more stable platform from which to blip the throttle, since the brake pedal doesn't travel as far.

If you are unhappy with the pedal feel of your current factory brakes, there are three things you can do to improve upon it:[list=1][*]Install stainless braided lines[*]Bleed the brakes carefully, using every trick in the book to get any air bubbles out (e.g., tapping caliper with a rubber mallet, carefully timed openings of a single bleed screw coordinated with someone pushing the brake pedal, NOT doing a pressure bleed or using gimmicks like SpeedBleeders)[*]Use a brake pad with a higher coefficient of friction, such as an Axxis Ultimate[/list=1]

DZeckhausen

It's not hard if you know what you are doing and have some basic tools, such as a flare wrench. But it's certainly not intuitive! If you've never bled your brakes before, I suggest you enlist the help of a friend who has done this before. If you don't have anyone to call upon, then a shop is probably your best bet.

If you want to tackle this yourself, give me a call and I'll be glad to walk you through the process. I've done it hundreds of times.

cobrasak

I am not sure if you guys have felt the brakes of a boxster but when you mean by fimer feel is that what you mean. My friend has one and that is how I want my brmebos to feel.

jackwhale

Dave: Any more 'tricks' to make certain that all the air is out of the lines and calipers? I'm going to try the tapping to see if more bubbles appear. Can you say more about what you mean by 'carefully timed openings and coordination'.

Would it help to remove the calliper and try bleeding with the caliper tilted at a couple of different angles?

Thanks for the help in the past.