Those with KW Variant 3...what settings are you running?
05-05-2009, 12:39 AM
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Those with KW Variant 3...what settings are you running?
Just got some KWv3s installed, and still trying get that perfect setup for dd. Roads are pretty harsh out here in LA, but I don't want to set the compression to full soft since I'm relatively low (G sedan, fronts have plenty to go, rears almost all the way down).
05-05-2009, 02:17 AM
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they only way you are going to get the ride you want is to adjust it and drive until you are satisfied. using another person's setting will do you no good since what feels good for them is just that, good for them
05-05-2009, 09:43 AM
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I understand that, but just wanted to see how members were adjusting their settings. I've adjusted the compression 1/8 turn softer from the recommended settings. I'm a little weary on going softer on the compression because I don't want to bottom out the shock. Maybe some can chime in on this issue.
05-05-2009, 10:09 AM
#4
Sound's to me like whoever sold you the setup oversold and should have set you up with the Variant 2. To be fair I don't have the total picture of what you were after in a new suspension to make that comment totally stick.
What you ended up buying and are now asking is a text book reason why I recommend that people buy dampers after having seen shock dyno's. If I was able to see dyno's done at full soft, mid and full stiff, I could get you pretty close to what you want settings wise. Otherwise doing things by feel is pretty iffy. I do have variant 2 dyno's and that setup is better kept at half way or lower. I would guesstimate that a Variant 3 set around 1/2 way on compression would be close to a Variant 2's normal preset compression setting, again a "guesstimate".
DA shocks can be very difficult to setup productively under the best of circumstances. As a daily driver setup given how the Kw's are valved and sprung you should be able to get what you want. I will however caution about over doing the settings. Most twin tube shocks being unable to generate force with ease, tend to over emphisize rebound forces as a bandaid around this.
IMO start at full soft and test. Generally the first change you'd want to make is compression and test. Get the car to that point where your everyday bumps and rises are dealt with, but not over dealt with. Once you have compression set, make any rebound changes if needed. I would not set compression or rebound past the half way point given what your looking for.
Just to say it, in your testing, if you get to the point where you have bounce, consider backing down the compression before you consider raising rebound. And you'll want to make certain your ride height isn't set so low that some ride issues might be bumpstop related, establishing how much bump travel you have at static isn't a bad idea.
What you ended up buying and are now asking is a text book reason why I recommend that people buy dampers after having seen shock dyno's. If I was able to see dyno's done at full soft, mid and full stiff, I could get you pretty close to what you want settings wise. Otherwise doing things by feel is pretty iffy. I do have variant 2 dyno's and that setup is better kept at half way or lower. I would guesstimate that a Variant 3 set around 1/2 way on compression would be close to a Variant 2's normal preset compression setting, again a "guesstimate".
DA shocks can be very difficult to setup productively under the best of circumstances. As a daily driver setup given how the Kw's are valved and sprung you should be able to get what you want. I will however caution about over doing the settings. Most twin tube shocks being unable to generate force with ease, tend to over emphisize rebound forces as a bandaid around this.
IMO start at full soft and test. Generally the first change you'd want to make is compression and test. Get the car to that point where your everyday bumps and rises are dealt with, but not over dealt with. Once you have compression set, make any rebound changes if needed. I would not set compression or rebound past the half way point given what your looking for.
Just to say it, in your testing, if you get to the point where you have bounce, consider backing down the compression before you consider raising rebound. And you'll want to make certain your ride height isn't set so low that some ride issues might be bumpstop related, establishing how much bump travel you have at static isn't a bad idea.
05-05-2009, 01:24 PM
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Thanks for your input Gsedan, much appreciated.
KW told me to leave the compression as recommended (1 full turn from full hard up front, 0.75 turn from full hard in the rear, compression range is 2 full turns), and adjust the rebound only for a comfortable setting, if my ride height is too low. The reason I chose V3 over V2, was to adjust the low speed compression for a comfortable dd setup. I've been adjusting the compression softer by 1/8th of turn, and then stiffening up the rebound to the recommending settings, and then going softer from there.
Just wanted to see what settings the others with V3s are running.
KW told me to leave the compression as recommended (1 full turn from full hard up front, 0.75 turn from full hard in the rear, compression range is 2 full turns), and adjust the rebound only for a comfortable setting, if my ride height is too low. The reason I chose V3 over V2, was to adjust the low speed compression for a comfortable dd setup. I've been adjusting the compression softer by 1/8th of turn, and then stiffening up the rebound to the recommending settings, and then going softer from there.
Just wanted to see what settings the others with V3s are running.
05-11-2009, 07:23 PM
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this is what I did
I bought kw3, installed them really low, they rubbed on my 19" te37's so I raised it little by little all around until they would only rub on the most extreme bumbs, then I rolled the fenders so they would not rub at all. My rebound is set three clicks from maximum stiffness (closed) I have three clicks clockwise until it stops on the front and back. For compression I have it set at three turns (clicks) from closed, or full clockwise rotation. I have lived in L.A. and know I could not get away with these settings there. In my part of jersey the roads are pretty good, I like the stiff ride, the car is not wasting time bouncing around and the turn in feels great. It seems kW's philosophy is to concentrate on valving and keep spring rates tame. Read my other post and check out the prob I am having. And I would not recomend anyone lowering their car they way I did. I just could not afford to pay someone and do not have any friends that know about cars, so this is probably the reason I am having the problem I discuss in the other thread. I should have taken ride height measurements before I started so I know how much it was lowered, but I was sure to make them the same from left to right. The surface I had to work on was not flat enough either anyway. I think am going to try and take it to specialist and have it corner balanced.
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