BBK Advice
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Yup. The RB Caliper does use a stock sized Z32 pad - that is what I was afraid of -- that although I have a decent sized rotor (13 inch), the caliper/pad is simply not large enough.
i would suggest sending an email to Mike @ jr@ctbrakes.com and getting a set of xp10 fronts and xp8 rears.
I'm afraid to ask you what the full RB set costs. I could have sold you a full set of Z32 calipers and rotors for super cheap! The 240SX guys love using the fronts. I do have some track pads for the rears (I bought STs for the front) if you are interested.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Its actually not that bad - I think I paid ~2800 for the kit. Although the RB calipers take Z32 sized pads, the calipers are not the same as Z32 calipers (which I have on my WRX). The RB Calipers are forged and super lightweight. The rears are completely different. Too bad you don't still have track pads for the front. Hidnsight is always 20/20 - if I had it to do all over again, I might not go the same route. I would probably pick up either the Akebono 370Z kit or a Stoptech kit for the front and a larger rotor kit for the rear. For now, I think I am stuck with removing my backing plates, crafting some ducts and hoping for the best -- its that or sell the kit.
Last edited by lbk16; Jul 29, 2009 at 10:12 AM.
Its actually not that bad - I think I paid ~2800 for the kit. Although the RB calipers take Z32 sized pads, the calipers are not the same as Z32 calipers (which I have on my WRX). The RB Calipers are forged and super lightweight. The rears are completely different. Too bad you don't still have track pads for the front. Hidnsight is always 20/20 - if I had it to do all over again, I might not go the same route. I would probably pick up either the Akebono 370Z kit or a Stoptech kit for the front and a larger rotor kit for the rear. For now, I think I am stuck with removing my backing plates, crafting some ducts and hoping for the best -- its that or sell the kit.
My StopTech BBK for my Z32 was the second installed on a Z32 and the first track tested. Here we are at Buttonwillow in 2003. The guy with the red Izod is StopTech's co-founder and engineering-now-general manager, Steve Ruiz. At the time, I was working with Matt at StopTech as my technician, but Steve wanted to oversee the testing and the instrumentation directly to monitor knockback. Those were some good times!
You should still start with a good set of pads and go from there. If your pads dont have an adequte temperature range you will be able to overheat them fairly easily on street tires.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Farmington Hills, MI
That's my plan. Going to go with the DTC60s, I think. Erik, if I wanted to use the DTC60s in the rear, do you have another suggestion for race pad up front? Say a Carbotech XP10? I have a huge range of pads to choose from for the front - but I am limited in terms of pads for the rear.
Go with DTC60 front and rear, should be just fine. I used to run Hawk HT10s front and rear in my STi with a 332mm front BBK and they were great. DTC60s are just the next generation of HT10s.
Also, I hate to tell you, but you can get StopTech kits for a lot less than retail. When I was looking, the RB stuff was only a good deal when you compare MSRP to MSRP. I looked at the RB kits before I found out about the deals you can get on StopTech. Of course, StopTech prices have increased since I bought mine.
I doubt the backing plates will make that much difference, but it is good to hear that RB is working with you on the issue.
A good alternative is the arizonazcar.com kit. Thats the one I'm going to get this month. Cheaper than both kits, uses a forged caliper, many many pad options and very cheap replacement parts.
As with all 2 piece rear brakes. Adding a hydraulic line lock costs 35 dollars. You can always purchace a rear wilwood kit (wilwood makes their own kits now) with a 1 piece rotor that retains the stock rear drum.
If you're racing on street tires, you dont really need a rear bbk. A good set of race pads on the stock rear will treat you nice.
If you're racing on street tires, you dont really need a rear bbk. A good set of race pads on the stock rear will treat you nice.
As with all 2 piece rear brakes. Adding a hydraulic line lock costs 35 dollars. You can always purchace a rear wilwood kit (wilwood makes their own kits now) with a 1 piece rotor that retains the stock rear drum.
If you're racing on street tires, you dont really need a rear bbk. A good set of race pads on the stock rear will treat you nice.
If you're racing on street tires, you dont really need a rear bbk. A good set of race pads on the stock rear will treat you nice.
I used to use the 4 piston ST fronts with PFC-01 and the 2 piston ST rears with DTC-70's on my twin turbo G with r-comp tires when I tracked my G. Never had a problem with fade. I'm sure the larger rotors made a difference, but the PFC-01's in front really helped as well. Along with almost everyone else on this thread, I recommend trying different pads before you give up on your current rotor/piston setup.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Farmington Hills, MI
Thought I would bring this one back to life. I ended up removing the dust shields/backing plates in the front. I switched to fresh rotors (since my previous rings were trashed) and and Hawk DTC-60s all around. What a HUGE difference. I ran five, 20 minute sessions at Gingerman Raceway (www.gingermanraceway.com) and I experienced no fade whatsoever. The brake torque was amazing - so much better than the Racing Brake pads that I was using. In addition, I have plenty of meat left on the pads. Looks like I will be keeping my Racing Brake setup for the time being. I have suggested that Racing Brake make it clear on its website and in its materials that for track use the dust shields/backing plates be removed to allow for maximum air flow.
Thought I would bring this one back to life. I ended up removing the dust shields/backing plates in the front. I switched to fresh rotors (since my previous rings were trashed) and and Hawk DTC-60s all around. What a HUGE difference. I ran five, 20 minute sessions at Gingerman Raceway (www.gingermanraceway.com) and I experienced no fade whatsoever. The brake torque was amazing - so much better than the Racing Brake pads that I was using. In addition, I have plenty of meat left on the pads. Looks like I will be keeping my Racing Brake setup for the time being. I have suggested that Racing Brake make it clear on its website and in its materials that for track use the dust shields/backing plates be removed to allow for maximum air flow.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
liqalu04
Engine & Drivetrain
31
Jan 2, 2022 12:58 PM
Colombo
Forced Induction
35
Nov 9, 2020 10:27 AM
seagrasser
Zs & Gs For Sale
6
Oct 11, 2015 03:27 PM





