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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 09:57 AM
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I am currently running (per my sig) a Racing Brake 4 piston front (13 inch two piece rotors) and 2 piston rear (13 inch two piece rotors) BBK. I have been reasonably happy with the kit, however, it eats (and I mean eats) pads at the track. I do about 5-6 HPDEs a year and the pads usually do not last for more than a couple of 15-20 minute sessions. This is with Racing Brake track/race pads. No, it is not operator error. I am not a novice - I have been tracking cars for about 6 years (WRX, Miata, S2000). I also run tracks in Michigan - where I never see speeds in excess of about 125mph. All of my previous cars did NOT have upgraded brakes and I have never had a problem like this.

I am thinking that the front calipers are simply not up to the task, although I am no engineer, so I can't be sure. Racing Brake has been completely awesome throughout the whole process - I have nothing but great things to say about them in terms of customer service, etc. I am probably going to try some more aggressive pads, but I may end up returning the kit.

So, if I go that route, I am looking for some advice in terms of where to go next. I like the 370Z/Akebono kit in terms of price and rotor size. I also like the the Wilwood 6/4 kit. What do you guys run - I know that Stoptech is always an option, but those kits are so damned expensive - especially for a 4 wheel kit. Any advice is appreciated.

Last edited by lbk16; Jul 28, 2009 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 10:04 AM
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Have you tried any other pad compounds such as Hawk DTC70 or PFC01 and considered adding brake ducts to aid in cooling?

Accellerated pad wear is usually down to running the pads past their maximum operating temperature. Using pads with higher max temps or ading a cool air stream can help to increase pad life quite a bit.

Last edited by StopTechErik; Jul 28, 2009 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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I have not - the last compound I tried was Racing Brake's ET800 pad. (http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/rb_pads.asp) As far as ducting - not really. Not sure how that is typically accomplished on a Z.

Although I do track the car, I don't really consider HPDEs to be heavy duty track use. I really do not see huge speeds at the tracks here in Michigan. I may jump up to a more aggressive pad - but my last set were toast in less than 50 miles.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Try the ET900? StoptechErik is absolutely correct.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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That's probably the next step - but still. I am not sure why the ET800s, wore so quickly.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 11:00 AM
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• AP Racing Brakes

o Front: 6 Piston Calipers
o Rear: 4 Piston Calipers

• AP Racing Two-Piece Rotors

o Front: 14.25"; Slotted; Drilled
o Rear: 13"; Slotted; Drilled

/Thread.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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Regardless of what you think of the aggressiveness of your track use is, your pads disagree. Step one is to go to a better pad. Id recommend going to something that is more proven and has lots usage behind it like the Hawk DTC70, assuming you can get them in that pad shape. If you find your wear rates reduce signifincantly, there you go. ET900s may also work, but I personally know nothing about them which is why I would recommend a well known, proven pad.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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Erik, I hear you. The front calipers take the same pads as a Nissan 300zx or 2006-2008 Subaru WRX. Currently, Racing Brake sells a DTC60 for the front and a DTC60 for the rear (only matching set). Since I really have never run race pads before, is the DTC60 a good compound?
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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It doesnt have as much bite as the DTC70 and is normally used on the rear with the DTC70s up front. If you can get the 70's you should, if not the 60's will still likely be an upgrade to what youve been running.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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Hawk does not make the DTC70s for this particular caliper. The DTC60s certainly have a higher peak operating temperature than the RB800s.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 02:18 PM
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it is your pads.

this is one of the issues with off brand brakes ... the pad selection is very limited.

try to find a pad with a higher temp range for your use at HPDE's. i'm partial to the endless ma22b.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JZurita
• AP Racing Brakes

o Front: 6 Piston Calipers
o Rear: 4 Piston Calipers

• AP Racing Two-Piece Rotors

o Front: 14.25"; Slotted; Drilled
o Rear: 13"; Slotted; Drilled

/Thread.
you can have 12 pistons and 15" rotors but if your pads suck you're still going to have issues.


im on the DTC70s right now, <3 em. (be sure to love the dust too) but a bit too much for the street...
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JZurita
• AP Racing Brakes

o Front: 6 Piston Calipers
o Rear: 4 Piston Calipers

• AP Racing Two-Piece Rotors

o Front: 14.25"; Slotted; Drilled
o Rear: 13"; Slotted; Drilled

/Thread.
^
LOL @ this... i did 2 sessions on the crappy mintex that $tillen ships with the kit...


carbotech xp12 front and xp10 rear is what i run now.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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I spoke to a Racing Brake engineer this evening - he claims that if I remove the backing plates in front I should see a substantial (his words) reduction in heat and, as a result, better cooling and less pad wear. Make sense? I thought the backing plates directed air to the rotor. I am at a loss - Racing Brake wants me to try this before they are willing to entertain a refund. I am wondering if I should switch to the DTC60s and go from there. BTW, the calipers are not "off brand." There are ton of WRX and Evo guys running RB stuff. The caliper takes the same pad as the 2006-2007 WRX (4 pot) and 300ZX, so there are ton of pads available - just not the DTC70s.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JZurita
• AP Racing Brakes

o Front: 6 Piston Calipers
o Rear: 4 Piston Calipers

• AP Racing Two-Piece Rotors

o Front: 14.25"; Slotted; Drilled
o Rear: 13"; Slotted; Drilled

/Thread.
While it's certainly a good kit, it is not going to solve his pad issue. Not to mention the replacement parts for AP (especially the rotors) are through the roof. The Mintex 1155 pads they give you work fine on the street. They absolutely are worthless for even a good blast up and down Bear Mountain however.

I'm with Erik on this one...you need to look into a harder core track pad, such as the Blues, Endless MA22DS3000, etc. You may want to check with Racing Brake however as to the makup of their rotors to ensure it can cope with such a pad.

Also, what tires are you on?

Last edited by Z1 Performance; Jul 28, 2009 at 05:28 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 05:34 PM
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I am running Direzza Z1 Star Specs, in stock size. (225s up front and 245s in the rear). Racing Brake seems to think that if I remove the backing plates, I should be able to run their ET700 pads. They do sell/recommed the DTC60s for use with their kits.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 03:55 AM
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Something I forgot to mention yesterday - based on the pictures that I sent to Racing Brake, they think that the rotors were overheating as well. They primarily attribute this to lack of airflow caused by the backing plates.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 04:30 AM
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I'd recommend looking into Carbotech pads as well. Their XP8 and XP10 pads have very high MOT's but can still be used for daily street driving.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 07:07 AM
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Removing the dust shields should certaInly help to get more air to the inside of the rotor which will aid in cooling, but I would still recommend going with the better proven pads like the DTC60s.

Last edited by StopTechErik; Jul 29, 2009 at 07:09 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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If they use the stock Z32 pads, that's not much contact patch. Most Z32 owners that track their cars upgrade, as the stock system is not good enough for such a heavy car (~3350#). If it were my $, and I do track a 350 as well, I'd get the Stoptech front only kit. You don't need a 4-corner set for track days. A good set up front with an aggressive rear pad and you'll be set.

Does the rear RB Brake kit use stock Z32-sized pads also? If so, I have lots of pads from when I tracked my 300 that worked well (PFCs, etc.)
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