jseabolt

I need to replace the brake pads soon on my wife's '03 pretty soon. That should be a no-brainer. The rotors look like they need to be turned.

Question 1:

From memory last time I had the front wheels off the front rotors are held on by a spindle nut and cotter pin like any other car. On some cars like Fords, there is a torque procedure for setting the bearing preload when re-installing the rotor. E.G. : rotate the front wheel forward while torquing the spindle nut to 30 ft lbs, then back off the nut and torque to 15 ft lbs and install the castle nut and cotter pin. Do Nissans require such a procedure? If so what are those specs please.

Question 2:

This car has nearly 100K miles on it. I don't know the history of the brakes. What is the minimum thickness the rotor should be before turning? That would tell me if they are worth turning or if I should buy new ones. And what's the minimum thickness after turning?

Question 3:

Do Nissans require a special type of wheel bearing grease or can you use the run of the mill high temperature bearing grease for brake rotors? Like Castrol?

Question 4:

For some odd reason this car generates allot of brake dust buildup on the front. The car has killer brakes but it makes me wonder why my wife can drive the car 100 miles and the rear wheels look clean but the front wheels are black. Is this normal or did someone install a high performance (or cheap) set of pads on the front?

I've just never seen a car generate this much brake dust. I know the dust has to be related to the type of pads that are on it. I just don't know what type of brake pad would cause this must brake dust.

Thanks.

surfcity40

Brakes forum. Wait I needed to reread that. Nevermind.

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

Moved to proper forum

1) No, our rotors just sit on the studs and are held on by the wheels and lug nuts.

2) 100K, I can almost guarantee they are way past specs. My first set was gone at 15K, the second around 28K.

3) No special grease for rotors. Pads and other sliding surfaces can get high temp brake grease.

4) OEM pad are notorious for brake dust. Get some aftermarket pads, something like the Autozone, Oreily's house brands.

If you want the full details, download a factory service manual... CLICK HERE

It will have all torque specs, removal and install instructions.

There are also a number of DIY threads in the DIY forum...

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy-459/

they will tell you how to change brake pads, rotors, calipers, etc.

quietkilla6

iTrader: (1)

so he got the direct link and i got the lemme google that for you?
haha

ReV2Red

iTrader: (9)

the brake rotor torque is your wheel torque, so it depends on your lug nuts. The stockers run at around 80ft/lbs and my volk duraluminum i run at 70 ft/lbs.

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

Try the link

jseabolt

Sorry didn't realize there was a section just for brakes. I haven't made too many posts on here.

jseabolt

That's what I needed to know. Thanks.

I've owned Fiats for years (<1983 Pre Chyrsler takeover ones) and they use an odd setup. The wheels are held on with bolts (like VWs) and the rotor is held on by two alignment pins for the wheels. Once the caliper bracket is removed, the rotor just falls off provided it's not rusted to the hub. One good thing this setup is the bearings are made into the hub instead of the rotors. So new rotors cost about $15 and are generally cheaper than having them turned.

I just assumed since I saw the cotter pin and spindle nut 350Zs used the same brake setup as most other cars like Fords.

I'll try the Autozone pads. I've used them many times on other cars before and never had any issues with them.

R350Zz33

iTrader: (4)

remember to get the warranty if u get the duralast change the pads before they go bad and you will never buy pads again lol.