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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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Default Brake vibrations

I recently bought my Z a week ago, and I am getting really bad vibrations from braking, due to warped rotors, im gonna DIY this installation because I honestly cant afford the installation cost im still recovering from buying the car.

I was hoping to get slotted rotors to prevent future warping, but it may be to expensive, what rotors do you guys recommend for a college kid on a budget?

And if I were to DIY am I looking to spend around $600?
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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How do you know the rotors are warped? Do you have the equipment to measure run out?

Cheap rotors? Got you covered: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ml#post7950972
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:37 PM
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http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/350z12a04

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...ategory=Rotors
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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Im not positive the rotors are warped, but i mentioned the vibration to the people who did my 150 point inspection before i purchased it and they said that the rotors would need to be replaced soon. ill go get the paper tonight and read exactly what they wrote

Last edited by ty8993; Nov 28, 2009 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ty8993
Im not positive the rotors are warped, but i mentioned the vibration to the people who did my 150 point inspection before i purchased it and they said that the rotors would need to be replaced soon. ill go get the paper tonight and read exactly what they wrote
That is not necessary. 90 percent probability rotors and pads will fix your problem.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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deleted

Last edited by davidv; Nov 28, 2009 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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grats on the upgrade, david
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 06:32 PM
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It's isn't likely warped rotors, I had an insane vibration under braking after a track day that felt like warped rotors but after doing some research I came to the conclusion rotors don't warp. I run the same rotors on the street and track only swapping my brake pads and ended up getting hard spots on them. Since only the front get really hot I took the front rotors in and had them machined down... $40 bucks later the vibration was gone and the car felt like it was new again.

You can do a DIY brake job for $400 USD pads and rotors included.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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Oh and one last thing, don't put doing the brake job off and live with the vibration. Just think of all the havoc that vibration is delivering to your front end... bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings and all will suffer from it worse than you do.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Parker01
Oh and one last thing, don't put doing the brake job off and live with the vibration. Just think of all the havoc that vibration is delivering to your front end... bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings and all will suffer from it worse than you do.
I have considered this, and it has become a financial priority, I am just current strapped for cash, but it will be the first thing I do.

I only need to replace the front ones right?
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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 05:22 AM
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while you're looking, you might as well pull the rear wheels off and see what the pad looks like out back as well
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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So you recomend these?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/350z12a04

Because I think thats what Im goin with
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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I bought Napa pads and rotors and went to my buddies house to replace them.

But no matter what we did we could not get the caliper bolts off to remove the caliper, so we couldnt finish the job.

We soaked them in lube and used the rubber mallet on the torque wrench to no avail.

But I really dont want to pay anyone to do this for me so I am going to try and get one of my friends shops so I can use a lift and get up under it to get more leverage.

Any more ideas?
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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I take the bar that comes with my hydraulic jack to slide over my socket wrench to get more length, which equals more leverage... Usually works for me on tough ones. Sometimes its in a real tricky angle though.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ty8993
I bought Napa pads and rotors and went to my buddies house to replace them.

But no matter what we did we could not get the caliper bolts off to remove the caliper, so we couldnt finish the job.

We soaked them in lube and used the rubber mallet on the torque wrench to no avail.

But I really dont want to pay anyone to do this for me so I am going to try and get one of my friends shops so I can use a lift and get up under it to get more leverage.

Any more ideas?
Bolts on the rear of the calliper? Those are a headache. A breaker bar is helpful. Long breaker bar.
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