ty8993

I recently bought my Z a week ago, and I am getting really bad vibrations from braking, due to warped rotors, im gonna DIY this installation because I honestly cant afford the installation cost im still recovering from buying the car.

I was hoping to get slotted rotors to prevent future warping, but it may be to expensive, what rotors do you guys recommend for a college kid on a budget?

And if I were to DIY am I looking to spend around $600?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

How do you know the rotors are warped? Do you have the equipment to measure run out?

Cheap rotors? Got you covered: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ml#post7950972

lbz

iTrader: (14)

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/350z12a04

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...ategory=Rotors

ty8993

Im not positive the rotors are warped, but i mentioned the vibration to the people who did my 150 point inspection before i purchased it and they said that the rotors would need to be replaced soon. ill go get the paper tonight and read exactly what they wrote

davidv

iTrader: (2)

That is not necessary. 90 percent probability rotors and pads will fix your problem.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

deleted

Entaille

iTrader: (16)

grats on the upgrade, david

Parker01

iTrader: (1)

It's isn't likely warped rotors, I had an insane vibration under braking after a track day that felt like warped rotors but after doing some research I came to the conclusion rotors don't warp. I run the same rotors on the street and track only swapping my brake pads and ended up getting hard spots on them. Since only the front get really hot I took the front rotors in and had them machined down... $40 bucks later the vibration was gone and the car felt like it was new again.

You can do a DIY brake job for $400 USD pads and rotors included.

Parker01

iTrader: (1)

Oh and one last thing, don't put doing the brake job off and live with the vibration. Just think of all the havoc that vibration is delivering to your front end... bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings and all will suffer from it worse than you do.

ty8993

I have considered this, and it has become a financial priority, I am just current strapped for cash, but it will be the first thing I do.

I only need to replace the front ones right?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

while you're looking, you might as well pull the rear wheels off and see what the pad looks like out back as well

ty8993

So you recomend these?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/350z12a04

Because I think thats what Im goin with

ty8993

I bought Napa pads and rotors and went to my buddies house to replace them.

But no matter what we did we could not get the caliper bolts off to remove the caliper, so we couldnt finish the job.

We soaked them in lube and used the rubber mallet on the torque wrench to no avail.

But I really dont want to pay anyone to do this for me so I am going to try and get one of my friends shops so I can use a lift and get up under it to get more leverage.

Any more ideas?

gregom

iTrader: (3)

I take the bar that comes with my hydraulic jack to slide over my socket wrench to get more length, which equals more leverage... Usually works for me on tough ones. Sometimes its in a real tricky angle though.

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Bolts on the rear of the calliper? Those are a headache. A breaker bar is helpful. Long breaker bar.