SPL V2 Front Arm Help!!
Hey all! I purchased a set of the new SPL V2 arms the other day. Install was easy but in having a problem with the drivers side. It is squeaking very loudly! Sounds like metal slipping against metal. Almost like a tinging sound! Comes from only the drivers side. Were the arms suppose to come with some rubber washer of some sort?
I took the wheel off to have a look. The car kept making the noise as it was being jacked in the air. Every turn of the jack there was a loud tinging noise. Once the wheel left the ground the noise stopped. So this rules out the sway bars as the culprit. Then we piled wood under the rotor and had about a two foot piece of 2x4 under it and using leverage on the pile of wood we compressed the suspension up and down and up and down. The noise continued.
I then removed the only nut holding the arm to the wheel assembly. Now the arm was disconnected from the wheel assembly. Tried moving the arm up and down to see if the noise was coming from where the arm met the chassis. It was fine, no noise. Then with the arm disconnected I tried using leverage and compressed the suspension again with the 2x4. No noise! So this would rule out the coil over.
NOW I'm guessing the noise is coming from where the arm meets the wheel assembly (the part where you have to grind the humps) and tighten with the nut to 40lbs according to SPL's website instructions. I'm thinking it is not seated in there properly but I don't know how this is possible since I checked it 3 times and MADE SURE it was seated right in there. Should I slap some grease over that shaft that seats in the (hump piece) and try it out?
Another problem I'm having with the arms is that the drivers side camber is -2.5 with all shims in and the passenger side is -1.9 with all the shims in as well. Don't understand this since each side is lowered equally (checked by measuring distance from bottom of fender to top of the lip of my wheel, and both sides were equal distances (about 2.25 inches))
WHAT SHOULD I DO!!
I bought these arms thinking they give the most positive camber adjustment. And I'm running -2.5!!! with all the shims in WOW
What could I do to get into better specs. My mechanic that does my alignments said he has seen some Z's with aftermarket adjustable bolts to adjust camber?? He pointed on my car where they would be. It was a bolt on the chassis near the very bottom of the car. Not really sure what piece of the car it is connecting
Any help would GREATLY BE APPRECIATED
sorry for long post but detail is needed in issues like this
I took the wheel off to have a look. The car kept making the noise as it was being jacked in the air. Every turn of the jack there was a loud tinging noise. Once the wheel left the ground the noise stopped. So this rules out the sway bars as the culprit. Then we piled wood under the rotor and had about a two foot piece of 2x4 under it and using leverage on the pile of wood we compressed the suspension up and down and up and down. The noise continued.
I then removed the only nut holding the arm to the wheel assembly. Now the arm was disconnected from the wheel assembly. Tried moving the arm up and down to see if the noise was coming from where the arm met the chassis. It was fine, no noise. Then with the arm disconnected I tried using leverage and compressed the suspension again with the 2x4. No noise! So this would rule out the coil over.
NOW I'm guessing the noise is coming from where the arm meets the wheel assembly (the part where you have to grind the humps) and tighten with the nut to 40lbs according to SPL's website instructions. I'm thinking it is not seated in there properly but I don't know how this is possible since I checked it 3 times and MADE SURE it was seated right in there. Should I slap some grease over that shaft that seats in the (hump piece) and try it out?
Another problem I'm having with the arms is that the drivers side camber is -2.5 with all shims in and the passenger side is -1.9 with all the shims in as well. Don't understand this since each side is lowered equally (checked by measuring distance from bottom of fender to top of the lip of my wheel, and both sides were equal distances (about 2.25 inches))
WHAT SHOULD I DO!!
I bought these arms thinking they give the most positive camber adjustment. And I'm running -2.5!!! with all the shims in WOW
What could I do to get into better specs. My mechanic that does my alignments said he has seen some Z's with aftermarket adjustable bolts to adjust camber?? He pointed on my car where they would be. It was a bolt on the chassis near the very bottom of the car. Not really sure what piece of the car it is connecting
Any help would GREATLY BE APPRECIATED
sorry for long post but detail is needed in issues like this
Summary.
SPL v2 arm is making loud tinging noise
Think its coming from shaft part of arm.
Should I grease it and see how it goes
Specs are off badly -2.5 and -1.9 camber ???
all shims are in.
SPL v2 arm is making loud tinging noise
Think its coming from shaft part of arm.
Should I grease it and see how it goes
Specs are off badly -2.5 and -1.9 camber ???
all shims are in.
Hey all! I purchased a set of the new SPL V2 arms the other day. Install was easy but in having a problem with the drivers side. It is squeaking very loudly! Sounds like metal slipping against metal. Almost like a tinging sound! Comes from only the drivers side. Were the arms suppose to come with some rubber washer of some sort?
As for the adjustment, the arms with all the shims in is about the maximum that will fit under the wheel well "pocket", extending the arm any more will cause the arm to bottom out against the outside of the wheel well pocket. If you are dropped more than 2 inches in front, this is going to be the limit of what is physically possible for camber adjustment through the upper arm. Also check to see if your lower control arm bushings are still in good shape, that will have some effect on camber.
Last edited by kuah@splparts.com; Dec 16, 2009 at 04:37 AM.
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will these upper arms help me out with my negative camber that i have on my car already?? i just have springs and im running -2.5 + camber and its killing the purpose of my tracking......
pretty much what im asking. will it balance it out and fix the negative camber?
pretty much what im asking. will it balance it out and fix the negative camber?
If I'm not mistaken these arms will only add 1 degree in the positive direction. So you would be looking at -1.5. You may be able to squeeze a little more positive camber if you slightly extend the ends of the arms that connect to the chassis
I have SPL A arms in my Z today, and i have the same trouble like you. With all the shims should have +1º than stock but i have as stock, -0,5º.
The steering wheel is also harder.
I don´t like SPL A arms, not what i expected.
But from Spain it is difficult to return.
The steering wheel is also harder.
I don´t like SPL A arms, not what i expected.
But from Spain it is difficult to return.
Last edited by cockpit66; Apr 22, 2010 at 04:10 PM.
Are you lowered?? If you are, lowering your Z naturally brings the camber lower. So by lowering your vehicle lets say your are now at -2.0 degrees. Adding the SPL V2 Arms should bring you to -1.0 degrees of camber in the front. You are currently at -.5 degrees. Which is damn near flat. You prob. want less than -.5 degrees of negative camber in the front. Anything greater than -2.0 degrees makes the Z fun and exciting while still not eating your tires alive. -3 is even funner as for handling but then your tires will wear much faster
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