jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Hi guys, please bear with me here as suspension upgrades are pretty new to me, but I have done some research and would just need some suggestions before buying the last pieces.

Well so far I have the SPL rear mid links and front and rear end links.

Planing to buy list open for suggestions:

Hotchkis Swaybars
SPL Front and rear Camberkit
Whiteline bushings front, rear and rear subframe.
Megan racing coilovers

Things I'm looking at is SPL front upper arms and tie rod ends

I will use the car mostly on the street and only take it to the track now and then for a few laps, so I'm mostly looking for good street set-up that can be turned up a bit for the track.

Thanks Micael

hellsoldiers08

iTrader: (3)

hmm the ones for a 1g? i heard something bad about them...(i think someone correct me if im wrong)

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

I have to assume you talking about the Megan coilovers ?? well I'm looking at the street ones and not the racing version, not sure if it makes a difference or not.

Micael

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

that's alot of awfully nice stuff and some very low end coilovers

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Well if I put it this way, will the Megan coilovers do the job for me for what I will use them for or ??
I have another car that I can put all the other stuff on, but if so what should I get for this car or what would I need for a pretty decent set-up, any suggestions ??

Thanks Micael

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

you have to define your goals and budget in greater detail

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Well budget is always up in the air, so I don't want to have to spend more than I need on this set-up.
My goal is a set-up that handles well on the streets and that I can take to the track at times, just for the fun of driving, I know my SPL parts are good, so if I do them and then some BC coilovers maybe ?? or what about SPC, is that any good ??

Thanks Micael

CORNELL

iTrader: (3)

definately go with SPL parts. you also have to consider how low you plan on dropping the car. if you want to use a "true" coilover set-up. don't waste your money on parts you will regret and replace later, it ends up costing twice as much as doing it right the first time

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

My thoughts, exactly.

Even chose SPL (good call) over SPC but still wanting Megan Coils? No bueno.

Dont cheap out on the most important part of your suspension list. Look into some KW Variant 1's if you just want a street setup, or something of at least equal.

GuardDrgn86

iTrader: (3)

with having the spl midlinks you can rule out going with a full coilover kit but like many suspension parts you get what you pay for. which ever kit you decide to purchase certain springs may not fit the spl midlinks. i know for a fact that the springs that come with the megan street kit do not work with the midlinks. swift springs however work fantastic.

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Thanks again
So are the SPL midlinks as good as they say or ?? I just read a lot about BC coilovers and they seem good for many, any thoughts about them ??
And is there any of the SPL parts that I don't need for what I will use it for.
Swift springs, can I use them with any coilover or ??

CORNELL

iTrader: (3)

you can actually purchase SWIFT spring in various sizes(widths and heights) and spring rates. the midlinks drop weight and give you adjustability, but if you go with a "true" coilover set-up you should have got the bucket delete arm. "true" coilovers put the rear spring on the strut elminating the need for the rear bucket midlink. a lot of brands are making coilovers in both stock and "true" configurations

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Ok, thanks, well maybe I will go with the mid link arm on this car and do the delete on the other car I'm working on. Anyone else recommends "True" coilover set-up for the rear ??

Also do I need the endlinks for this set-up or should I save them to the other car which will be more a track car ??

Thanks Micael

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Definatly go BC or better for your coilovers. Ditch the midlink idea, besides they can't be used unless you run true copilovers. Grab a set of SPL camber arms and toe bolts and i wouldn't bother with the front camber kit unless your looking to run the track all the time.

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, so I think I will go with the BC or Stance, looks like they are in a good price range and people have said so many good things about BC.
Well I have the mid links already and they should go with the non real coilovers in the rear, so I guess i better just get coilovers that fit that, anyone else disagree with that ??
So camber arms and toe bolts for the rear and nothing more for the front ??
What about the endlinks ??

Thanks Micael

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Most of the time your front camber will be around -1.5 when dropped around 1 inch, if you track your car you want the camber. Even for a street driven car , that much camber is perfectly fine and will only take a couple thousand off your tire life. Without the camber, you will really cut your tire life short on the track. Endlinks are nice, but not needed till the stockers fail, i have 60k miles on my stock endlinks with aftermarket bars. The work just fine unless your running the stiffest settings on your sways, something not needed unless your running r compound tires.

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Thanks again for that explanation. Learning something good everyday
Ok, so I leave the end links for my other car then that will be more of a track car.

Micael

kuah@splparts.com

iTrader: (10)

This is incorrect, the SPL PRO midlink retains the spring in the stock location, using industry standard 2.5" ID springs, and provides ride height and full range of toe adjustment (not through the slip-prone eccentric bolts). By using 2.5" ID springs, the customer can easily buy different length and rate springs, providing full tunability of the rear ride height and spring rate.

For those with true coilovers, we offer an alternative "toe arm" that eliminates the spring bucket.

jmicaelk

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for that, so if I use the midlink, what else do I need to be able to adjust my suspension ?? I'm a bit confused if I still need toe arms or not ??

Thanks Micael

kuah@splparts.com

iTrader: (10)

The toe arms are used instead of the midlink when you have "true coilovers" (ie. relocate rear spring over shock) in the rear. So you can use the midlink with the rear spring in the stock location, or toe arms if the rear spring is relocated, but not both.

You will need rear camber arms together with the midlink (or toe arm) to adjust your rear camber and rear toe. I would recommend the eccentric lockout kits we offer to eliminate the eccentric bolts if you see any track time, since the stock (or aftermarket) eccentric bolts have tendency to slip and change your rear alignment.

For the front you will need the front upper arm if you want to adjust front camber. Some people have said this is overkill for a street car, but on the track, the 350Z/G35 benefits from running a lot of camber in front (-3deg or more). Our v2 front upper arm will allow you to add more negative camber for track days, then take it out for street use, by simply adding/removing shims.