WhiteNoiz

I have managed to replace the front rotors and brakes just fine. I had trouble getting the first rear rotor off. I beat on it for a while, then saw the rubber thing that looks like screw, it popped in. I took out a screw that was right behind it thinking it was a screw holding the rotor in place. turned there rotor, and found another one that matched up and took it out. They both had springs under them and popped out into the rotor with the rubber stopper. The rotor is broken free now, but it still wont come off.

Z-ya recommended turning the rear wheels to unlock the e brake. I tried that after re-assembling the brake and rotor. I put some bolts on to keep the rotor square and the caliper on the rotor to make sure it didnt pop out from an increase in pressure or something... I eased it into gear but it was grindy sounding. The rotor may not be very square. I dont know if I even got a full rotation on the rotor, still stuck on there.

Any help would be great, going to have to find a ride to work in the am.

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

just beat the crap out of it with a rubber mallet, i mean beat it!!!

R350Zz33

iTrader: (4)

beat it like a foster parent beats them foster kids

gregom

iTrader: (3)

Yeah just beat it off man! heh...

I'm sure you'll get it. Hey if you need any help call me i'd be willing to come over and hang out and help a little. I replace my brake pads a couple times a year so it's pretty easy once you've done it a few times.

GL... # is 921-8117

WhiteNoiz

Progress is being made. I got one rotor off. Still beating on the other one. I went over to put the new rotor on the other side while taking a break from beating it... found that the drum expanded juuuust enough not to let the new rotor on. I guess I will try turning the wheels by hand and trying to get the e brake to release????

dmroberson

iTrader: (26)

Takes 2 hits with a metal mallet, to the top of the rotor hat... came off easy after that. That's what I did when I replaced my rotors...

WhiteNoiz

I have figured out how to get the rotors off... BEAT EM!!!!

my problem now is getting the ebrake to release. can I turn my car on without the calipers having a rotor between the pads? I dont want to pressurize the system and blow the calipers. If needed I will put the calipers back on and then start the car...

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

NO......play with the linkage of the ebrake.....ensure the handle is down and push on the ebrake pads themselves....use rags, dont break them......

-J

WhiteNoiz

Thanks for the help Jason!

Ok. So the handle is down. So try to squish the drum together? I will give that a shot when I get home.

What about the other side? Still trying to break it free, but it seems like the brake may be holding slightly. I had to work the rotor off of the passenger side.

I should be able to turn the car on and ease it into gear now... Should I try that?

teh215

iTrader: (8)

Get a copy of the service manual. It details the steps needed to take in order to remove the rear rotor. Simply pounding the snot out of it is not the correct method.

WhiteNoiz

I will try to ease the tension on the drivers side rear rotor with the tension screw (hole with the rubber plug) as in the service manual.

As for the other side with the rotor off, I adjused the screw to where it wouldnt adjust any smaller, and still couldnt get it inside the back of the rotor. I havent tried squishing it, well I may have last night, but I dont remember specificly trying that. Z-ya recommended that I turn the wheels because the ebrake is locked on. It was on when I ramped up the car.

So I guess at this point I am wondering if the ebrake is still on, and I cannot get the rear rotors on because the drums are too big, beyond the adjustment screw....

VO...

iTrader: (25)

+1. You have to really beat the $hit out of the rear rotors to knock em' loose...

KornerCarver

iTrader: (2)

This may be a stupid question, but.................was your handbrake off before you started trying to remove the rotor? I don't recall having much of a problem removing my rear rotors.

WhiteNoiz

The e brake was on prior to lifting the car, so from what I understand it is locked on until I spin the wheels to release. I did start the car when both rotor were still on, I was only able to get the wheels to spin maybe one rotation because of the screws that had fallen into the back of the rotor, they were grinding in there so I didnt allow it to spin much (they were just some screws I didnt need to take out that held the brake drum in place, that was off of the side that now has the rotor removed, and I have put the screws back in place). I now have one rotor off, and one on, and the drum seems to be too large for my new rotor to fit on. So I am going to try and squish the drum when I get home. If it wont move. I guess I will try to spin the wheels by hand to release more tension from the e brake, and then as a last resort release tension from the ebrake via the screw under the ashtray.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

WhiteNoiz

Is the adjustment for the ebrake in the car, under the ash tray... is that the long bolt with a nut a ways down it? If so, any hints on getting on that thing? Deep socket wont fit in there, wrench would be tuff...

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I always use my 5 pound BFH when doing rotors.

WhiteNoiz

yea my 1 pound SFH is not quite enough

WhiteNoiz

Thanks bud, I appreciate that. I will take a stab at it when I get home.

WhiteNoiz

Mission accomplished.

Moral, dont ever ever ever pull on the ebrake before you change the rear rotors...

I will have an extra step of re-adjusting the ebrake through the rotor holes soon I imagine...

But, its done, thanks for all the help!!!!!

gregom

iTrader: (3)

Cool glad you got it... I have never worked on drums actually. I did research before doing my brakes though and knew not to use the handbrake, not that I ever use it anyway... kind of pointless on an auto.

Also i'm sure you already know this but be sure to go bed in your new brake pads/rotors. Very important to get the most out of them performance wise. I like to go out to Gowen road in the late evening to do that, huge long straight road with little traffic and you can see ahead/behind you for miles. Then jump on the freeway to cool them once done so you dont sit at stop lights.

BTW if you ever need to replace a power steering rack in a Z... I know how... :P Replaced mine after it was damaged from a wreck. It actually wasn't that bad.