*ICE*

iTrader: (48)

I searched but no help, already installed coilover and got some negative camber in front. I am in the process of installing front A arm but got stuck on how to remove it... Any help?



Thank you!

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

Straighten out the cotter pin wrapped around the bolt. Then pull it out from the bolt and unscrew the nut underneath.

winchman

You'll need a ball joint removal tool. The lower end of the ball joint it tapered where it fits into the upper end of the axle assembly. You can't break it loose without the proper tool to put lots of pressure on the end of the stud. Leave the nut loose on the threads after removing the cotter pin to keep from damaging the threads.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Why are you trying to remove the balljoint ?

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (15)

In general this is absolutely correct.

However, I think he is just trying to remove the upper A-arm so he will not need a ball joint remover since the ball joint is not pressed into the spindle/knuckle. It is pressed into the upper A-arm itself. A hearty whack with a 16oz hammer was all I needed once the pin and nut were removed. My SPL arms came with their own new ball joints so there was no need to remove the stock ones from the stock arms.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (15)

Oh and be careful with those spring compressors. I bought identical lookin ones off amazon for about $40 and the "safety pin" bent like cheese. Ended up not even needing spring compressors on either the front or rear suspension of the Z.

*ICE*

iTrader: (48)

Problem is, once the pin was removed, I can't get the nut out. It just keep on spinning when I use the socket wrench to remove it. So once i figure how to get the nut out, just get a hammer and bang the **** out of it until both parts separate?

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

I took mine off last week. If that nut is spinning all the internals of the arm are spinning too which = broken arm (I'm assuming). The big nut underneath just came right off for me. I would get the grinder out and have some fun since I believe the OEM arm is useless anyway

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

Once that nut is off one good bang of the hammer should knock it out of the spindle. Then just unscrew the other two bolts attaching it and your done. Should take 2min to get each arm off. Hardest part for me was jacking it up and getting the wheel off

bimmertech

iTrader: (10)

if the nut is spinning/not loosening then that means the ball joint has lost its pressure with the upper part of the spindle.

you simply need to apply pressure to the upper part of the balljoint to reapply that pressure with the spindle. this will keep the balljoint from spinning and allow the nut to loosen. i would recommend placing a pry bar on the top of the balljoint and leverage it against the inner strut well, all while loosening the nut. or the use of an impact may be sufficient as the nut is not a lockint nut and once freed will come off easily.

since this is the case, after the nut comes off the balljoint should easily come out of the spindle--most likely pop out on its own as the force from the bushings will pull it up on its own.

Kroc

I signed up to tell you this:

I did the same job on my G35.
The tool you will need is a Picklefork.
Purchase or Rent it at an autozone or something similar in the area.
Put the picklefork in the join, take a mallet and bang bang bang the fork as hard as you can around the bolt. You will put pressure on the ball joint so the nut will come loose.

Took me about 3 days on my G to figure this out.

R350Zz33

iTrader: (4)

weres ur BFH use it they fix everything but headlights and windows

tsar

iTrader: (9)

If he's not planning on re-selling his stock a-arms he could just use a pair of pliers or a robo-grip or something similar to grip the rubber covering where the arrow is point in the picture. If you squeeze hard enough you'll grip the metal rod underneath and that will allow you to unscrew the bolt without the whole thing spinning around.

*ICE*

iTrader: (48)

thx i'll try that

Thermal1

iTrader: (23)

^ That or the pickle fork (which is a rental tool, so you don't have to buy one)

This won't help you get the nut off, but I have one of these:



Useful for separating balljoints, less chance of damaging the boot compared to the pickle fork.

*ICE*

iTrader: (48)

finally got these b!tches out!!!!

All those tools that were recommended were failed at the job, I had to figured out my own way to do it.

All you need is to remove the you inner bolts near the struts, then flip it outward, tilt it upward or downward to put pressure on the balljoint, then remove the nuts.
These pics will explain everything!










This is will be a great guide for anyone that is lowered on coilover and want to switch out the front cambers.

gorillagoggles

iTrader: (2)

Wow man that looks like one hell of a process. I just installed my Ichiba A arms with my KW's and when I undid that bolt the A arm popped right off. Hopefully you have better luck puttin it all together

*ICE*

iTrader: (48)

yes that is normally the process, but once you lowered maximum on coilover with stock A arms and drive around for about 50 miles, the balljoint most likely will break right away

teh215

iTrader: (8)

So is this:

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

ICE, please carefully inspect your brake lines for any cracks and your abs lines..........from that pic, you didnt remove the brake or abs line from the strut mounts and you are pulling on them quite badly!

you may not have a leak in brake fluid now?? but if you did give it a tear, then a tear can turn to a failure down the road......

-J