When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just installed some BC Racing BR Series (True Rear Conversion) to my 2004 Enthusiast. I lowered the car about an inch or so from OEM Height and it visibly cambered my wheels a bit, which I expected. I am planning on bringing it to get an alignment as soon as the spring settles a bit. I understand that lowering a car makes it nearly impossible to get back to OEM specs without the use of additional components. My question is, will I be able to get close enough to an acceptable alignment without camber arms or any other additional adjustable pieces? And if not, what are the downsides of driving with the car outside of specs other than tire wear? Hoping to check with an alignment shop to see how close I can get before purchasing more parts, but if they are necessary then it must be done. I know I can not get a definitive answer without having the alignment specs in front of me, just looking for some general info from people who have lowered their car before. I am willing to raise the car a bit if this will help, but I'd like to keep it as low as possible without going too far outside of alignment specs. I have attached a picture of how the car sits now with the coilovers installed.
Going with a true rear coilover requires the use of an adjustable camber arm anyways, so you shouldn't have any worries there. Toe may be your only issue, and if its only 1" or so, factory hardware alignment components should work fine.
Going with a true rear coilover requires the use of an adjustable camber arm anyways, so you shouldn't have any worries there. Toe may be your only issue, and if its only 1" or so, factory hardware alignment components should work fine.
So just to clarify - If I were to get Adjustable Front Upper Control Ams and Rear Camber Arms, I should be good? I am currently running with nothing right now. With just these two things, the alignment shop should have enough room to adjust to get me into spec right? Or do I need the toe arms too?
Most alignment shops won't touch front camber since it's not adjustable from the factory, might need to find a tuner shop to do it
Got it. Assuming I do find someone who is willing to do it, would these components allow them to get me correct? Or is the toe absolutely necessary too? I just ordered the FUCAs and rear camber arms. Just want to make sure I don't have to go back and order another part after bringing it to them. Thanks in advance, I am still learning the ins and outs of suspension for this car Much appreciated
Got it. Assuming I do find someone who is willing to do it, would these components allow them to get me correct? Or is the toe absolutely necessary too? I just ordered the FUCAs and rear camber arms. Just want to make sure I don't have to go back and order another part after bringing it to them. Thanks in advance, I am still learning the ins and outs of suspension for this car Much appreciated
Yes and no. Keep in mind that every aspect of the alignment has to work together. CCT - or caster, camber, toe. One adjusted "right" without the others correct is worthless because one affects the others.
True CO's in the rear at about 1" drop throws camber out by as much as 0.6° to >1.0° whole degree which is not a big deal with adjustable rear camber arms. But.... what it does to the toe while correcting with camber arms is another thing. You have two options: toe offset bolts (which are included if you order the SPC rear arms or separate here.) OR, since you have nothing in the spring buckets any longer, remove them and substitute in adjustable toe ARMS like these. (Not an endorsement, just the concept.) This latter solution (spring-delete toe arms) is the best way with true COs due to their offering more adjustment than bolts. But offset bolts will do the trick on a budget, especially if the car isn't totally frog stance cambered. Just from the pics, I'd *guess* at about 3.0° total camber, if that.The SPC camber arms and bolts each have a couple degrees of adjustability, more than enough to bring your car back into spec.
Put this way, one of my Zs (non coilovers) had -20mm springs and put the rear camber at roughly 2.4°. Had ZCG set it at outside edge of accepted range (~ -2.1°) for my use in the hills; while preserving tire wear.
FUCA's up front address CCT adjustment beyond factory toe-only adjustments.
Yes and no. Keep in mind that every aspect of the alignment has to work together. CCT - or caster, camber, toe. One adjusted "right" without the others correct is worthless because one affects the others.
True CO's in the rear at about 1" drop throws camber out by as much as 0.6° to >1.0° whole degree which is not a big deal with adjustable rear camber arms. But.... what it does to the toe while correcting with camber arms is another thing. You have two options: toe offset bolts (which are included if you order the SPC rear arms or separate here.) OR, since you have nothing in the spring buckets any longer, remove them and substitute in adjustable toe ARMS like these. (Not an endorsement, just the concept.) This latter solution (spring-delete toe arms) is the best way with true COs due to their offering more adjustment than bolts. But offset bolts will do the trick on a budget, especially if the car isn't totally frog stance cambered. Just from the pics, I'd *guess* at about 3.0° total camber, if that.The SPC camber arms and bolts each have a couple degrees of adjustability, more than enough to bring your car back into spec.
Put this way, one of my Zs (non coilovers) had -20mm springs and put the rear camber at roughly 2.4°. Had ZCG set it at outside edge of accepted range (~ -2.1°) for my use in the hills; while preserving tire wear.
FUCA's up front address CCT adjustment beyond factory toe-only adjustments.
Thanks for the response. This was a really good breakdown for someone who is still grasping the whole idea of a lowered suspension. So I ordered the Z1 Front upper control arms and Z1 Rear Camber Arms. I'm imagine there are higher quality options but this is what I can afford right now (unexpected costs), without ordering some Chinese rep stuff off of Ebay . As long as I get the rear toe arms in addition, this should give me everything needed to adjust and get me back to where I want to be correct?
My first suspension upgrade was Tein struts, shocks, springs, with about 1 in lowering, and did not see that dramatic front camber shown in your photos. I don't see any reason why you should be showing that much negative camber by just lowering an inch. I've since upgraded to other parts but are you sure your front hardware is not already adjustable, by a prior owner perhaps?
07-05-2024, 12:59 PM
BC Racing BR Series Technical Info
Much appreciated
