JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

* money..........

like anything else...all in due time.......i have tons of other mods not listed...thats just main suspension mods.......I have somehow always spent my money elsewhere...........18ft car trailer, 18 wheels for the car for drifting, R comps on a dedicated set for autoX that never come off, small trailer for those R comps for autoX events, canopy so the wife is comfy and in the shade cheering me on.......good god i don't even want to think about it anymore....

-J

NismoZ_840

iTrader: (3)

Great write up! Learned a ton and now understand why the stock Z doesn't hold an alignment. Thanks again for taking the time to write this all up!

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

exactly verbiage.........i will go back and add it where i can... the Z doesnt hold alignment well stock for stock and age and time on it....

I am very happy to finally get mine to do so....

-J

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

my Z does that all the time...

anywho


OK OP,

as a my350z.com member I want more for absolutely nothing

break it down in price range...as you would spend money without custom mods...

i.e. if you had $2,000 or #3,000 or the works to lower your Z

do it...do it now

nothing serious just, you get a thank you after you complete task at hand...

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Okay im semi lost in the question?? or if your joking, but if your asking my opinion on what would i buy if i had X amount of money.......as in what would i suggest for you.......

I wouldn't unless i knew exactly what you were looking for and wanting to do with the car......too many vairiables......daily driven, wanna slam it, wanna track it, want a 1 to 1.5 inch drop and great handling?? what the hell is great handling to you???? get what im saying.....plus i dont research coilovers all day long..........those are better answers for our vendors who can really answer

there are too many to suggest.......but I hope i made this thread with some semi clarity to help people decide on their own...........and of course questions are welcome...

If anyone has coilovers, post clear and concise details:
1. pic
2. where purhased
3. true or oem style rear?
4. rebound adjustable
5. height adjustable at lower lug body or spring perch only or both?
6. current height you ride at?
7. over all impression? daily driven, track, etc?
8. etc..etc......it can get long!

-J

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

wasn't joking...I want what you have.


To clarify what I was asking, most kinda wanna know with a certain budget what can be had. I know you can't recommend parts you haven't used, and rightfully shouldn't.

granted you gave your current setup...if money were no object what would you go with or seen on other Z cars at some auto x's...

thanks again for everything you have done and all the retarded/kinda pm's you have received...

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

oh man, my aim was to point everyone on a much clearer path.....there are tons of different camber arms out there, tons of upper control arms, etc....its too hard to give my definitive answer....

Camber:
If anything i would REVIEW POST #4 - read what i said about camber arms again here:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...adjustment.jpg

Toe - again review post #4 and Post #19.

Front UCA's:
I gave a low cost option with the kinetics unit - POST #7, yet Im hard core track so I bought SPL front upper control arms a lub dem.....

yep, wouldn't want too...

oh the possibilities......if money were not object i would be making my own coil overs or building a hybrid between others......I have sourced parts to make your own coilovers! its possible......Im actually considering doing it for my 4x4 Xterra for its front coilovers, since its only fronts!

But if i had to buy, it would probably be top dollar units...., Topline aragosta, etc........if money were no object i would want to lighten the Z in the process and get fine tune adjustable coilovers....



-J

J's 350z!

iTrader: (12)

wow great write up this whole time I was adjusting the stance coils at the top I didnt know that was the preload and not for height. Whats a good preload setting for the front?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

well, you would have to read the instructions that came with your stance coilovers "if" they came with any, etc.....

but for the most part, it should never be loose while the car is on the ground....

second....who knows??? its up to you....get the car at a height you like, drive it around and see......

its impossible to answer not knowing if its for daily driving, autoX, etc.....if you have some weight added up front with TT kit...etc..

its more of a test and try it out.......

it took me about a year of testing before i found a spot i love my coilovers to set at.. I have measurements, etc all written down for what im doing track wise...

-J

kuah@splparts.com

iTrader: (10)

Keep in mind that this part does not move at all, the forces from the suspension arm are transmitted to the subframe by friction (normal force of the bolt stretch * coefficient of friction), so there is no movement that can cause "the thread to dig into the aluminum". The only critical criteria is that the bolt be strong enough that it can be torqued down properly. Regardless, we had already switched a different bolt that is only partially threaded:

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

^ much better to at least have a shank bolt......

I will confirm though that the threads will eat into the aluminum......ive seen it on many Z's....ill try to obtain a pic...

Would you like me to update the thread at post #20 and remove the first pic and add your new pic with the new bolts you sell them with..??

-J

J's 350z!

iTrader: (12)

My car is pretty stock other than intake and exhaust. I have it low and about to go lower but i was lowering by using the top part of the stance coilovers and putting that down. But never adjusted the bottom part this all makes sense now. This weekend im going to mess around with it when i add my Wheel spacers. Its my daily driver i just like my car slammed

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

so all stock but coilovers and slammed??
what size wheels?? offset and spacers? and what tires?

so NO:
- no rear camber arms
- no spc toe bolts
- no front upper control arms???

how bad is your alignment???

Im not calling you out, im guessing you will get the needed things in time, but I would love to get a slammed cars before alignment specs to show/prove where it willl be at X amount of ride height/drop?

-J

J's 350z!

iTrader: (12)

i have 19x9.5 + 17 fronts rear 19x10.5 +24 fronts are 225/35 hankook k110 v12 rears are 255/35 potenza re05010mm spacer going up front 15mn rear. I have spc rear camber and toe bolts. No front upper arms. I have about -1.8 camber in rear. front i have to check alignment sheet i forget. Im about 1 1/2" drop about go alot more just was in transition from old front bumper ings long nose went back to stock front. Thats why im not completely slammed yet but will be soon. No worries i was the one that originally asked lol.

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

Jason, Would you do an alignment first then corner balance, or vise versa? Thanks.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Okay, so most likely your gonna go out of spec when you go lower doe to the limits of the spc toe bolt in the rear.......you can sacrifice more negative camber to help it, but please get back to us on what it comes out to with the components you have...

if anyone else slammed can post their sheets, components and spec along with pics of the car "slammed" then please do..
-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I think thats a better answer for some of the vendors/shops on the site that offer those services...........

but my answer would be that alignment first then corner balance, then alignment again and preferably the same shop do both.....

I wouldn't corner balance unless i had adjustable coilovers and endlinks along with every adjustable suspension component to include aftermarket bushings so the alignment and specs will HOLD!!!.............

Also, endlinks are to eliminate pre-load from swaybars versus sacrificing/adjusting height, preload, etc at the coilovers during corner balancing......thus why i say have it done by the same pro shop....

-J

J's 350z!

iTrader: (12)

I'll post some pics once i lower my car this weekend and add the spacers

I know im going to be out of the stock settings im planning on running somewhere around -2 camber rear. The front will see what happens ill adjust the height with the bottom coil part maybe mess with preload lol

jonnylaw

iTrader: (3)

Great Post/Thead. Suspension is one area that I need to pay more attention too! I'm still trying to figure everything out, but had some questions if you wouldn't mind answering:

The only suspension compenents I currently have on my car are Nismo suspension for cpv35 (non-adjustable oem-rear type) and Stillen sway bars on medium setting. I think the drop is like 1-1.5 inches--not sure. Had an alignment done on oem 19's and tires after suspension and sway bar install. This was a couple of years ago

The last time I had an alignment was 6k miles and a few months under 2 years ago however. Also, I live in the midwest, so I am swapping summer/winter setups 2x a year.

Currently, I have my winter set on the car-OEM 18's with Dunlop sport m3 tires--225/45/18 (f) 245/45/18 (r)

I am about to swap over to my new summer set-Volk ce28n 19 in. 9x9.5(f) and 9x10.5(r) with Bridgestone re050a pole position tires--255/35/19 (f) 275/35/19

I am thinking maybe I should get an alignment done and whether I need/should upgrade some components for this, but some q's:

1. You mention that an alignment should be done anytime you switch wheels. Does this mean I should be getting an alignment 2x a year with my wheel/tire swap?

2. The alignment machines the shops around me use is a Hunter alignment rack. It uses sensors that mount on to the wheels (metal to metal contact). Do wheels get damaged from the sensors like this? I don't want to scratch up my new Volks!

3. I was going to get an alignment with my winter wheels on before swapping over to my summer set to avoid any damage, but it sounds like that would be pointless and the alignment should be done with the set of wheels you are going to be driving on?

4. With the nismo suspension (non-adjustable) and my wider Volks, would it be recommended to buy aftermarket components for a proper alignment? (e.g. camber kit). I am not setting up my car for track use at the moment and would just like an alignment that is close to oem settings that will give good and even tread wear and driveabililty. So I'm not sure exactly what I should upgrade to acheive this.

Thx!

edit: From what I understand, the nismo suspension was made to work with factory components, and I'm not sure if I even need the spc rear camber bolts.

Also, can you please explain how changing from one set of wheels/tires to a different set requires a new alignment? I'm being told by some nissan/infiniti techs/ntb that I could get an alignment on my winter set which is currently mounted, or my oem 19's, then mount my Volks and I should be good to go without a change in the alignment. The reasoning given was that swapping wheel/tires does not affect suspension geometry?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

No problem...

Im not familiar with that suspension??? but i see you say "" (non-adjustable oem-rear type) ""

also, do you have your previous alignment sheets you can post??

noted..

noted..

noted..

k.....

I mentioned that an alignment should be done, because on post #3 i show the difference between OEM 17's and OEM 18's.......WHY, because the sizes are different.....notice that here:

notice how the Factory service manual data mentions TOE specs for "18 inch wheels" over 17's....

That's because if you use a tire calculator on your tires between the two different tire/wheel sizes you mention ARE in fact different.

compare "Tire A and B" using the calculator here:
http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html
I think you will see your 19's are actually smaller than your 18's.......

ALSO, you really have to review the toe ranges::::

FRONT - TOE range is less than 1/10th of a degree......about .08
notice - ["max .08" minus "min 0.0" = .08 range] - pretty small there.....

REAR - SAME, less than 1/10th of a degree ...about .06
notice - ["max .106" minus "min 0.043" = .063 range] - pretty small there.....

I highly doubt between your two wheel sizes you will be in spec........and the only way your gonna know for sure is to do the alignment on both.....which, like i mention for a Z doesnt hold alignment well anyways........so yes to answer a question, i think an alignment 2 times a year is NOT ob-surd...

oh dear.............

I can semi understand that, but i semi also dont............they are wheels......and it is what it is........just because they make high dollar wheels doesnt mean every shop out there has ways to accommodate them...

if you really dont wanna scratch your wheels find an aligmment shop that has the plastic tip inserts that go over the metal clips.......I have seen them.......but at the same token.......it was not the basic of shops either...

hint hint - call high end shops..........you paid big money for volks......and if you dont want them scratched......then you gotta pay big money for alignment from a place that can do it with out scratching them, etc....

it is what it is.........

As an enthusiest and swapping wheels due to season and due to aftermarket wheels and styles, etc.......thats why i mention at the bottom of post #26
that there are lifetime and alignment specials you can buy as well to do multiple alignment shops...........not sure if they are available in your area, but you can look into it..

exactly, especially if the tire calculator shows the tires/wheels are different in physical size...

it all depends on ride height, how low the car is and how your wheel/tire selection throws that off......if you cant get into alignment specs with your factory components then great, but if not, then the compenents you need are at the beginning of this thread...

probably dont if that suspension is the factory suspension and factory height or very minimal drop.....minimal of about .5 inch drop with 19's, etc




i hope that helps...
-J