Since you are paying for labor...if you have the $$ for shocks then the answer is get new shocks. My vote is for the Bilsteins.

If you dont want to spend the extra $8-900 or so for B8s or Konis right now, and don't mind paying for labor again later on ($3-400?) then you'll be fine running the stock shocks for the time being.

 

Very few members will have experience with both Koni and Bilstein. I have the Bilstein B8 shocks and really like them.

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...coil-over.html

 

Ive also run both, I prefer the Bilsteins. I had several leaky Konis replaced hassle free (I do my own work), and even though that was traced to a bad batch of shocks (or so the story goes) it still needs to be said. Bilsteins for me have been rock solid.

 

Feels like so long ago, but as it happens I ran Koni SAs with RSR springs for a few years.

 

Right, so if I was going to get Bilstein shocks then would I get the B6 (HD) or the B8? It seems that the RS-R springs would not lower enough for the shortened B8s?

This says that the 'ideal' operating range for the B8s is 30-50mm, but the RS-R springs only lower about 15mm: http://www.bilstein.de/en/products/search-service/faqs/

 

I have ran Koni's on my Z and Bilsteins on a C6 Vette and an 05 Magnum RT.

The Koni's improved handling on my Z by a wider margin than the Bilsteins did on the other two cars.

*BUT* the Bilsteins improved BOTH handling and ride on both cars. The Koni's hurt ride quality in the Z.

My recommendation:

Street = Bilstein
Track = Koni sports AKA"yellows"

 

So if I lower my car do I need to get the front compression rod bushings? Reading this entire post (information overload) it seems like that is a critical thing to replace if lowering the car as they will tear otherwise, correct or unnecessary?

(by lowering I don't mean slamming like .6-1.2" drop)

 

So, I have a bad habit of posting threads without doing enough research But I have worked on it and with this topic I have done all the research and found nothing! So, I have Tein Street Basis and I highly recommend them. Very good ride quality for entry level coils and still feel amazing. Anyway, in the front I have them about 3/4 the way down with more room to go lower but being a daily driven car in Colorado (3 inches of snow on the ground as I type) I felt i should keep it at its current height for the winter. But the rear needs to be more low. There is still a wheel gap and isn't sitting right. The passenger rear sit higher than driver left but they're both all the way down? The slight camber I have is more negative camber on the right side also and could that be because it is higher of the right? Therefore correcting some natural camber on the left? All in all here are my main questions: My coils are all the way down and I need to go lower after the winter. What do you recommend? Taking out of one of the perches or slightly cutting the springs? I am kinda against cutting the springs because it defeats the purpose of coils. Also how can I make the amount of camber I have equal on each side do I need adjustable camber plates or arms? And lastly, what will i have to do for the car to sit right? Thank you all SO much!!
-AJ

 

I couldn't find any reviews on this product...I was either gonna go with the Tein street basis coils(650) or the sport comfort(1900)...is the extra $1200 really bringing $1200 worth of performance and comfort.

 

They will go out, they really don't even last that long at stock height

 

Please help!!

 

Toe bolt question? I drill the part that attaches the spring cup, not the camber or toe arm ? and Im supposed to drill on the passenger side alone 2 Pills? and factory exhaust seems to be in the way of drilling, I should be removing that?

 

Yes the pill must be cut out, if not, the toe bolts do nothing the stock bolts won't do.

I only do the insides, all 4.

I use an two different grinders when I do it, clean it with a round file

 

Would it work without filing it? And how easy is it to cut through?

 

Our cars are easy. Have to be careful not to take to much material. A g37x has a steel subframe. I'm yet to find a decent way to grind them. I have a g37x to do this Saturday. Any tips with grinding the steel?

 

I'm getting H&R coilovers with camber kit, however I'm trying to find how much i should drop it by and negative camber. Any suggestions? It's going to be daily driven with occasional hard driving on roads, and I'm trying to get it pretty aggressive without having issues like scraping bumps or crazy tire wear. (06 350z)

Help is appreciated guys!

 

I have adjustable toe arms and camber arms. Drilled the pull out , Installed the toe bolts and still have a horrible toe in, the problem is in the rear and pretty much negative toe. The front of the wheels tilt towards middle of the car. (Not leaning in like camber )

 

My Time Attack class required that I run a 1-way adjustable shock, so I switched to the Ohlin DFV Road & Track coilovers.

Front spring rate is 100N/mm (562lbs/in), while the rear is 55-70N/mm (310-392lbs/in) slightly progressive. I have a bunch of OEM [or even NISMO although I think they're too high (and also progressive)] rear springs I could use. What do y'all think is ideal? Was thinking 455lbs/in from my KW Clubsports, but am open to order as well.

 

I am in the market for coilovers but i have a few questions, probably sounds noobish but i was wondering if G35 coilovers and front Camber kit from a coupe fit on a 350z? The person I am buying from says they will fit but maybe he just wants my money anywho just want to confirm that they fit. Also the coilovers are stance gr+ true coilovers. So would i be able to keep my stock spring cup thing? or do i have to buy the toe arms to replace it and in doing so, toe arm also acts as a camber kit? please help me my350z

 

Well, you don't state what years we're talking here but assume the Z is '03-08 and the donor G-COUPE is '04-07 then yes, they should fit. Is this a full set of four? Not sure from your wording...sounds like front only...

What "spring cup thing" are you referring to? You mention something about the front but there are no "spring cups" up front other than what's on the shock/spring assembly.... and that's being replaced with the coilover with it's own spring perch.

As far as camber kits are concerned, with the amount of lowering you're doing, 90% probability you are going to need a pair of adjustable UCAs up front and camber adjustment rods out back to affect the necessary camber adjustments as there isn't any now.

That is, unless you don't care about actual handling improvement nor tire wear and are just going for stance.

Here's my question.... why is the guy selling the setup?