^Describe the play more and you may get people to bite

...lateral play, longetudinal play, play between the actual rubber in the bushing and the race in the arm itself? Or play between the bolt and the race in the bushing?

 

The play is between the red bushing and aluminum subframe. Like if the brass sleeve and bushings were about 1/16" it would be a tight fit. Maybe it's designed like that on purpose so the bushing doesn't bind up...Seems like everyone who installed these arms should be able to see what I'm talking about...no driving issued here though so far so good

 

ok, i need right now the lca bushings, we do have options for those, i was wondering why nobody has refered to the prothane brand, are they bad? They have lifetime warranty and the sell full sets that include every bushing you'll ever need. Also the energy suspensions too. How do these 2 brands compare to whiteline or SpL in terms of quality?

Also in recent posts jason, you were recomending the mix of solid and urethane bushings to someone in this thread. My car needs the lca bushings as of now, (havent checked if it needs the radius or compression, but will change it anyways) and the differential ones, which i thought of replacing them with whiteline, but then i saw those 2 brands stated above, and then saw that they carry those "full sets" that include everything. Basically they seem like a good deal on the long run. Just wanted to know what to use, quality in mind tho. I want the bushings to last as long as the car. My car is DD, no track at all, just hard pulls on highways or something like that. so some advice please, thanks...


just in case, here are the links:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...p?prod=7.18108

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360625928919?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I bought the kinetix branded set of the A arms, the rear camber and tractions arms, i mounted everything except the tractions, if you want them PM me, they're new. I just mounted them, saw the pain in the *** of alignment and that i didnt needed them and removed them.

 

I have only one thing I can try and help you with. That kit may end up being OK for the rest of the car but if you read back through this thread and believe that it is full of good advice, do not use urethane bushings on the LCA. Either use stock bushings again or use SPL spherical bearings if you can afford them. Urethane bushings do not allow your LCA to pivot through its entire range and you will end up damaging something else. Like I think he said stressing out the steering rack and other possible stress on things you don't want. Plus you will not get full arm travel. Go back and look at the beginning of the Front suspension arm section.

 

I did read all that, but i wasnt speaking about the compression arm, i was talking about the tranverse link. anyways, my car is a daily driver at stock height, the reason of putting urethane is to upgrade my suspension and make it stronger for the bunch of potholes and crappy roads that exist here... I can get the spl, but i dont like all those noise complaints i read neither.

 

Sorry for bringing this thread back but had a question. I'm on OEM style coilovers with almost every spl part you can think of besides some bushings, endlinks, Midlink and locknuts. I'm at a modest height due to front bumper being too low. So I'm not Mr. Slammed. Anyway, is it still a good idea to get the midlink and locknuts? I will be doing the occasional autox so I don't know if OEM bolts will slip with any change in height. Also, I have the Nismo wheels with +30 offsets 9.5 all the way around. Thanks in advance.

 

In your case I would stick to OEM toe bolts or run SPC toe bolts if needed.

 

Awesome...I'm staying away from spc as I don't really feel like having "craptastic" alignments after some spirited driving or racing. I'll just leave that OEM then. Thanks for the input.

 

Hey Jason, this thread is seriously awesome, but my one complaint is the lack of coverage on the radius/traction rod in the first few pages.

As a part that's widely and commonly sold, and just as frequently purchased by folks who think they 'need' it, I always wished there was more information about what it's for and how it's supposed to be adjusted. Of course, the common guy lowering their Z probably won't need it or even care for wanting an adjustable one. But shouldn't we at least put this information out so people understand what they do, and how they can affect your suspension ride?

I'd be happy to provide some details around the radius arm, if you don't feel like explaining it or editing anywhere, and then you can just review and copy and paste that info into the first two pages somewhere...?

 

Just installed new endlinks and sways.

Did i installed the endlink correct? Does the threaded part go on lower control arm or top part connected to sway? or does it matter?



My bushing and bracket are not flush with swaybar flange/lip is that ok?

 

Doesn't matter, but I would say they are probably threaded way to far out. Then as far as sway bar bushings go, perfectly normal and fine.

 

Yep.....bushing flange ok.

but ya, threaded way to far out. remember u have to install them on flat ground, and since car is low, then it needs to be done on a lift...

u cant install one, then lift the car and install the other one side at a time, the car needs to be on a lift, or u in a pit, or something like that.

-J

 

This is the level of suspension knowledge I needed. Thanks for all of this!!

 

lol yea i have car on stands with wheels off right now so i had to thread out that far in order to fit lower arm hole. If i place front on ramps is it safe to remove endlink from lower arm? It wont be hard to remove because of tension?

Same applies to rear?...Has to be on ground or ramps?

 

In the air the endlinks should come out pretty easily, on level ground they also should come out easily. They should be set on level ground to have no load when installed

 

I am trying to figure out the forces involved in the front suspension geometry. After I wore out the OEM compression arms, I've gone through many compression arms from Oreilly. They either have the bushings tear or wear out the ball joint in a much shorter amount of time to the point it is so loose it rattles. I splurged last time and got OEM arms and SPL bearings. Still wearing out the ball joint on the arm though. I don't see many people having this problem on the arm, only that it is common for the OEM bushings to tear. So I am thinking that I am missing something. And the only thing I can think of is something else is worn too but I cannot figure it out.
If you have a list of things to check or for me to understand I can get my service records out and talk more detail on age/shape of other parts. I replaced a lot of bushings up front when I did the SPL/OEM upgrade so start off as fresh as I could. I'm trying to relate other parts being worn vs. wear at that small ball joint - if there is any relationship at all.

I also have been trying to find an alternative to using the stock piece and getting an upgrade (for lack of better term, a race quality piece) but can only find every other arm/link on the car, not the compression arm! This thread is a great resource and shows about everything you can upgrade and the compression arm only gets bushing/bearing upgrade - nothing "nicer". Some of the upgrades for the rear suspension are high quality stuff. I've been searching for actual 350z race car pictures to see what they do differently on the front end and am coming up with no help there either.


Don't feel like putting out the money again for it to last <1yr. All Oreilly parts ended up being free replacement and then a return, so I had money to put towards OEM arms BUT after changing arms each time there is alignment check and probably go ahead and do an alignment each time at a fair cost as well. Spent more on alignments the last few years than parts!

Please help!

 

Hi i bought a kit of coilovers mono rs godspeed i know they are not the best but i already pay for it and i installed them... the problem is the my z still hitting and bouncing a lot. .. can u tell me how can i adjustment them? Thank s

 

How low is the car and how much travel do you have.

 

Years ago they had full ramps to drive up on a lift. Now it is the Finger type. So no load on the wheels like there was. I would use a pit like in some of the oil change places to set height and rod lengths. Even load that way. Make sure you rock the car side to side, front to back to get the slack out of suspension.