I really bet they have a setscrew that makes the **** come off. Once the **** is off, a simple tool in the hole will be great.

 

I found a guy willing to sell his tein street basis coils for 650$ how much of a drop will I be able to get with these Coils? I don't want it to crazy but enough of a drop to maybe add a little bit of natural camber. Will I be able to do this? Thank you all.

 

Basics will drop the rear between 1.5 to 2 at most, front can easily do more.

 

The silver portion has a a threaded screw that screws right into the top of the coilover. I'd have to find a pic. But I don't think I've seen a tool small enough to mimick the dial assembly as it's not like an Allen key insert or anything that you can use a tool with.

 

Greddy does not offer dampening extenders for the z

 

Just cut the hole bigger, mine are cut to maybe 1.25 inch

 

Hello guys. A guy has offered me a set of Tein Street Basis for 650$. They have less than 2,000 miles on them and I wanted to get a second Input on if I should buy them or not. Of course I'll have to see but what questions and protocal should I take before buying used coil overs? Thank you!

 

If they are indeed 2k miles old, would be good.

 

I have tanabe springs with the rear spring mount mod. I'm in need of new shocks since they are beginning to make creaking noises when turning and going up inclines. The car currently has 123,000 miles on odometer. The car is a daily driver and I would like to keep the car nice and street-able. Is there a setup that you would suggest that would match well with the spring rates of the tanabe springs; I'm looking to maintain a comfortable ride. Also, I've noticed some feathering of the tires up front; I have upper control arms; does it sound like I might need some new bushings up front.

Tanabe GF210 Series 350Z progressive springs 1”/1.2”
Spring rates in LBS 336/375 (only peak rates are published, softer initial progressive rates unknown)

 

I installed these : Bilstein Shocks: You buy one front right and one front left, and two rears (identical)

46mm Monotube Shock Absorber, Position: Front Left
Part Number: 24-101561
Series: B8 (SP)

46mm Monotube Shock Absorber, Position: Front Right
Part Number: 24-101578
Series: B8 (SP)

46mm Monotube Shock Absorber, Position: Rear
Part Number: 24-101585
Series: B8 (SP)

This is a street solution. The Bilstein shocks are very comfortable while providing extraordinary performance and handling.

I shopped and found the best price and service at tirerack.com.

 

^^x2 on the Bilstein shocks. Their high speed damping (which is where most of your ride comfort comes from) is second to none. I ordered a B12 pro kit back in October, but it seems the Z parts are on backorder for a few weeks. Best price I found was JSCspeed (subaru vendor) at $780 shipped for the kit (shocks + Eibach pro kit springs). Sell the springs and it puts Bilstein shocks in D-Spec price range..

 

I searched and only found like one 350z with cx racing coilovers. Megan I've seen some and it goes pretty low, I'm on a budget and I'm try to slam my car anybody know which ones go the lowest between the 2? Like I said not even keeping the car for that long maybe a year or not more. Pictures would be nice if anybody is lowered on either one! Thanks! Going for the static look

 

If your not keeping it long, why destroy it by slamming it?

 

Because I want to.

 

because he is a retard that wants to make his car undriveable

 

He said he is going for the static look (whatever that means), so obviously he's not even driving it.

 

Hey everyone!

I just have a quick question: is it 'smart' to use rs-r lowering springs with the stock shocks (I have a 2006 so I have the "revised" suspension).

I just don't want the to have the stock shocks blow on me 20k miles from now, but looking at the site it does say that they are designed for the stock shocks and given the modest drop (.6" front and rear) I am inclined to believe them even though I know a lot of manufacturers throw out the same claim when it isn't 100% accurate.

Also I have 275/35/19s in the back on OEM Nismo rims (19inx10in with +30mm offset) this drop won't make the rear tires rub right?

Thanks for your help!

 

My stock shocks started to degrade after about 6-8 months with the RS-R springs.

I replaced them before they ever "blew". (No leaks or anything) That time span was mostly track time too.

 

Let me ask you a few questions:

1. Mileage on original shocks?

If you have more than 50k miles on them, dump them. Not saying the stock shocks are "bad", more that you DO stand the chance of wearing them out shortly anyhow. (Regardless of whether you swap the springs or not... just end of useful life.)

Why?

Think about the relationship between the shocks and springs. The shocks are designed to DAMPEN the spring action. The factory matched them together by design. Installing higher rate springs means the shocks will have to work that much harder to do their job correctly. (Hastening a shocking death... Sorry...)

2. What's your goal? Track days? Street performance? Stance?

I ask that to determine how much performance you really want/need for your application.

If you want anything at or above Street Performance, dump them.

First, for the reason cited above in #1. Secondly (also related to #1) is that the positive effect of the aftermarket springs is diminished by using shocks that are trying to go above 100% of their intended purpose.

Besides that, you are going through the labor cycles of installing the springs only to have to tear down the front all over again to upgrade shocks LATER. (Rears are cake but fronts require teardown.)

Bottom Line: You can do it safely - the combination of stock shocks and aftermarket springs will work fine and won't hurt anything - but in the grand scheme of things, it's kind of a useless (IMO) endeavor until you have the "system" working in tandem and at as close to 100% efficiency as possible. (Uhhh, yeah, I'm a software design guy who is OCD about that. Laff!)

Sidenote: Progressive rate springs won't be as quick to kill your shocks. While they are marginally stiffer than stock under moderate load, it's less taxing on the shocks in the first couple inches of compression - where most everyday driving lives.

Good luck and keep us apprised of how it all works for you.

Mic

Disclaimer: This is based on empirical testing (experience and that of others) BUT YMMV depending upon your style of driving, environmental conditions, etc.

 

GREAT response and very helpful! There are just under 55k on the original shocks and my goal is street performance with a few track days/autoX thrown in now and then. I really care more about performance then the looks, but I think a modest drop would help both. I also really don't want anything too aggressive since I don't want to buy a camber kit (toe bolt, a-arms, etc.) or roll my fenders so the Rs-r springs seemed perfect since they are linear and only drop the car about .6".

Does anyone have any recommendations for shocks? It sounds like that is the best way to go especially taking labor cost into account.

I have heard good things about Koni yellows, and Bilstein B8s does anyone have any input as to which of those—or some other shock— would work best for my purposes.

My top two criteria are reliability and performance. I don't think I would ever mess with any adjustment settings.

Thanks!!