str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

So I am wanting to get rid of my ABS system.

There are 2 lines coming in from the master cylinder (primary and secondary) to the ABS module. Then the 4 hardlines out.

Does anyone have a diagram of hose the brake fluid flows inside the ABS module? The BRC section in the FSM doesnt show anything.

After some reading, it doesnt seem as simple as T-ing the MC line to a 4 way distribution block.

Anyone know how to do this?

**Also, if I just wanted to test the car without the ABS, could I just unplug that top grey harness (shown in the pic)?

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

What are you going to use to control the F-R bias?

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

you can use a cheap simple valve for that
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...ioning-Valves/

there seems to be a pressure sensor on that ABS module as well. is that for the brake light, or still part of the ABS? either way, easy enough to tap a block for another 1/8NPT

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

If you look at the beginning of the BRC section, you'll see a diagram labeled "Hydraulic Circuit Diagram". That's about the most detailed thing in the manual covering the whole system.

Are you building a full blown race car? Otherwise, why would you want to do away with ABS? Surely you're not over-driving it on the street.

Wait - you have a G35. Nobody builds a racecar out of a G.

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

BTW - if you want to test "no ABS", pull the fuse. It's what guys do when they want to do burn-outs and not have the system pull the power because the brake and throttle are depressed.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

i think my ABS brain is messed up. it pulses the ABS every time i stop when the speed gets under 20mph

Tried basically everything with no dice. Been messing with this problem for about 2 years. Ready to just yank the whole system. doesnt throw any ABS codes either. that ABS computer is ~800$ and cant even find one from a wrecked car.

very unnerving with 900whp.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

What size tires are you running? Front and rear, ABS can do weird things if your stagger is off!

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

Does your car have VDC or TCS? Have you tried replacing all the wheel speed sensors? That's got to be easier and cheaper than pulling the ABS pump/controller.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

its done it for as long as i can remember. no change when i use stock stock tire, normal 255/275/40, or even my 275/305/35 comb0 i'm on now.

if all i have to do is run each MC into a proportioning valve, it will only cost about 150$ to bypass the ABS all together. I know I def get codes when the sensors arent right due to spacing, unhooked etc. VDC

idrive_MD

iTrader: (8)

you can do what I did, but it will disable your VDC and ABS.

Disabling VDC, for real, page 6 with pictures.

I'll be honest, I thought I did this successfully on my G35, but for some reason or another I'm not getting the prefered results, which might actually benefit you. It would just require you to do excatly what I did though....I state my issues here on the start of page 9.

Pages 6-9 are what you want to read.

Ideally the switch override would allow the stock VDC switch to function normally, but once the override switch was turned to an open position (breaking the connection, aka switch off) the VDC/Slip lights would be activated completely disabling the VDC system while keeping ABS and your brake lights. For some reason or another, my setup isn't working like this. my VDC/Slip lights are on permenately meaning I have no VDC. When I activate the override switch, my ABS turns off completely as well.

As you'll see in the thread, its kind of a mystery as to why this is happening to me. We've narrowed it down to a problem with the specific switch I used and/or possibly the wiring I chose.