Weld SPC Toe Bolts?
07-12-2010, 07:51 AM
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Weld SPC Toe Bolts?
So I'm going to be installing the SPC toe bolts here soon...got them in this morning and WOW they do wobble. I was wondering...would there be any downside to welding the bolt side washer on permanently (similar to how the OEM toe adjuster's bolt side washer is static)?
Just to clarify...I'm talking about welding the bolt to one of the washers...not to the car in any way..
Just to clarify...I'm talking about welding the bolt to one of the washers...not to the car in any way..
07-12-2010, 07:55 AM
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^ yeah i know what your saying...to make the head side of the SPC bolt like the head side of the oem bolt...
sure you could, but welding unknown material diminishes strenght...
-J
sure you could, but welding unknown material diminishes strenght...
-J
07-12-2010, 08:10 AM
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FWIW, I would imagine only putting a bead around the top half of the bolt head, where the washer's at its thickest.
07-12-2010, 09:27 AM
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review what the OP is talking about here on my suspension 101 thread where i talk about "bobble" here on my post 19:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293599-post19.html
PIC:
So hes asking if its okay to put a bead of weld on the head side "AT LEAST"..
OP, go for it...if done with a minor weldment, not so intrusive on the metal it should hold up...
OP, also note from post 19:
FIXES:
Okay, in my mind the ONLY two baller status/no fugging around fixes are:ITEM 1. Use lock out washers and toe arms (must have true coilovers)
or
ITEM 2. Lock out washers and the SPL PRO MIDLINK to adjust toe....(if using OEM style coilovers or if you have springs)
BUT, for those of us out there that find this bolt to be straight up hell and dont have the means to do either item 1 or item 2, you can try a few things!
SPC TOE BOLT FITMENTS FIX #1:
1. Measure the gap between the flat section of the bolt and the flat section of the washer!??? lets just say its .050 gap!
2. Source some aluminum that is .050 and cut it down to a strip and run it the length of the bolt along the top of the flat section of the SPC bolt!
THIS will keep the bolt from having wiggle room and from over powering the flat section of the SPC washer.
SPC TOE BOLT FITMENTS FIX #2:
1. Make another set of off-centered eccentric washers that are about .125 thick and put ONE on the oem bolt - sliding it all the way down to the head side up against the welded existing oem eccentric washer. Drill a countersink in "Your" eccentric washer and put a screw through it INTO the oem washer, which already has a hole for this screw in it!! -- about dead center.....then use a lock washer and nut...done!
Ensure the head of the countersink is flush to YOUR washer .000/-.005 ---> As in - make sure its flush and not sticking up past your washers surface as that will be the cars subframe mating side.
Then now, you lost some length on the bolt, but I believe you will be fine, and if need be source a shorter nut! or flip a prevailing torque lock nut.....
I highly recommend prevailing torque lock nuts. The nut needs to be M12x1.25 for the oem bolt!
ALL of this is all based on if you can make an eccentric washer with the V notch in it for the NUT SIDE!!....or have a local machine shop that can do this for you????
And of course the other one on the head side just needs at least a 15/32 hole (wiggle it a little) in it to fit the M12 bolt.........maybe even 31/64ths....???
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 07-12-2010 at 09:29 AM.
07-12-2010, 09:37 AM
#6
Welding won't work for that issue. You'll just focus the load onto the welded part of the bolt and, as per your previous post, you'll lose any of the hardness/heat treat from the weld heat exactly where you're focusing the load. Probably better to use a hardened shim to take up the slack.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-1095-...strips/=7xiod5
EDIT: I guess we had the same idea...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-1095-...strips/=7xiod5
EDIT: I guess we had the same idea...
Last edited by betamotorsports; 07-12-2010 at 09:38 AM.
07-12-2010, 09:52 AM
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J's correct...I was hoping the bolts to be less crap than the 101 indicated, but he was spot on...
I think I'll just install as is without messing with them...what I'm doing with these bolts and lowering springs is just a cheap temp fix anyway until next year when I'll get the SPL midlinks and coilovers, and will do lockouts then. I can't take the 2+" gap on my rear wheels any more..drives me nuts just looking at it. The weld thing was just an idea...although sounds like a stupid one
I think I'll just install as is without messing with them...what I'm doing with these bolts and lowering springs is just a cheap temp fix anyway until next year when I'll get the SPL midlinks and coilovers, and will do lockouts then. I can't take the 2+" gap on my rear wheels any more..drives me nuts just looking at it. The weld thing was just an idea...although sounds like a stupid one
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