JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

Finally getting myself started on going from my tein basic setup to something better
Recently remember rubbing grease off my rear strut and telling myself i would deal with the blown strut later
currently have stock spring bucket in back
ive dropped the rear= 1.5" front =.5" to .7" maybe
with the drop and no toe bolts and the Bigger tires my toe is visually off
-by a lot

my suspension feels top heavy in the rear
because of this and a broken swaybar bracket in front right "allready ordered"
do i need to buy those rubber sleeves for the new motordyne sways
or do i need to stretch them of my damaged nismo sways"

Ive got motordyne sways on the way to be set at full stiffness
25mm spacers for the rear
265/40/r18 "stock width rims" for the rear 245/40/r18 front

heres what im considering...
getting kinetix a arms for front and rear with new stock bushings
"to fix camber, allow me to drop a little more in front"

either going for the spl Midlink to fix my toe issue And keep my rear progressive stock style "tein basic" i have and buying 1 new strut and guessing which one had leaked, or..

Going for a true coilover setup , and getting different rear coilovers
and buying a Adjustable toe arm

Do I need to buy rear camber arms for the true coilover set up or
is that for the stock "progressive" set up only, Do i need those or will rear A-arms adjust my camber enough to have a 3.0 degree camber?

With a true rear coilover set up is there anything obvious that im missing with this set up?

Is this worth it or should i get the $490 SPL midlinks and 1 new rear tein
basic strut "big difference with a drop that ill use driving daily yet agressive"

Should i get Tein rear coilovers? any other opinions whats reasonable?
Price match vs keeping rear set up "basic" with good toe

"looking for something track worthy, yet i will be driving on the street 99% of the time"

So far i have spl rear bushings, quaife diff w/ 4.083 gears stillen headers
cats and true dual, m/d spacer, injen short ram with RC2 air filter


cover that?

JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

And i allready have the spl endlinks that i was gonna need to replace
the ones that cringe/crack/pop when i go down a drive way
a result of my damaged sway bar bracket in the front right

JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

-and 20mm spacer for front...

JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

Will this justify keeping the rear progressive set up i have
"my springs are green though tein basic - this may be stock?"

JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...mount-mod.html

this is what i was talking about in the above post

JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

anyone? anything?

adamciya350

6 posts in a row all OP


c-c-c-combo breaker!!

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Get good springs with good shocks or a set of quality coilovers. Also why do you want the sways set to full stiff? Do you want the car to handle like ***? Do you really know how sways work , let alone the rest of your suspension.

JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/...php?cPath=1_13

what would you recommend for stiffness, anyone

ive got a a tanabe 4 point underbrace to stiff up the front and protect my cats

stock strut bar, no solid rear subframe bushings and no solid bushings in the front. only new end links for the rear

is there a adjustable arm for the rear sway bar?

doug_z

iTrader: (10)

first what u need to do is to figure out what u want to know because you just put a lot of information out there yet what is the real question

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Sway's are about fine tuning a setup's handling to get the at the limit behavior your want. If he's set to full stiff and has found what he likes, no one can tell him he's wrong. Given the tiny 25mm diameter of his front bar, it really should not be a mystery that he's went with full stiff. Bigger issue is the wisdom of knowing that the rear bar is are a more nominal diameter and what that means to the big picture. I simply amazes me what parts get bought without finding out actual specs and making a sound buying decision because you played the field being a truely informed buyer.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

If you read, he has the bars on the way and they are not installed, and i'll bet with his current setup and street tires full stiff front and rear will be wrong . Also i'm sure reading his posts you will notice he doesn't have a clue about anything suspension related.

JOMZSHAKES

iTrader: (1)

Thats why im here-

So, im leaning towards stance gr+ coilovers and waiting to save up cash.
will a full coilover setup give me any more troubles other then having to buy a toe arm and camber rod for the rear,
and something about buying a rear upper knuckle?because they wear?

I have no clue what setting i should be aiming for for stiffness i just want it to be lower then what i have, and balance out the set up

1.5 diff
4.083 gears
and a utec tune with my bolt ons

ride quality can be comprimised, i want a performance stance, not
slammed

any other ideas on a good coilover set up that would be better
i dont need constant height adjustments or anything over $2,000.
just something to balance my mods, and get me on the track

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Just cruise out to the track then , thats all thats needed. Then buy brakes and tires and mod as needed.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

holy bat man!!! okay OP thats way too many questions.........if you take your time and read through the Suspension 101 thread you should understand the Z's suspension way more and have the answers your looking for suspension related:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html

be sure to physically get under your car and ensure you know what your looking at, and what I'm referring to in that thread..........if you still don't get it, have a good mechanic buddy help point everything out to you or a friend just help you read through it all while looking at the car.

ask any remaining questions on that thread please.

-J