If you want more bite, just get more aggressive pads for the stock calipers.
If you want less fade, get better 2pc rotors with better cooling properties. SS lines and better brake fluid will help as well.
If you want better general feel, SS lines and DOT4 brake fluid.

 

I'm betting a lot of what you are feeling is just perception, i.e. the placebo affect. You upgraded your brakes so you work them harder than before. Unless you did real measurements before and after, you'll never really know for sure.

Check out this brake comparison test...

http://www.zeckhausen.com/testing_brakes.htm

 

It's comments like this that show how little many folks know about braking. And in turn the value (or lack of in some cases) fitting aftermarket brakes.

More pistons is no guarantee of more clamping. A single piston slider with 4" of piston area vs a six pot caliper of the same area makes no more clamp load.

While rotor size does alter the leverage portion of the braking torque equation a 'greater friction surface' has little to do with stopping distances- as piston quantity does not either. The larger diameter rotor provides more leverage for the clamping to effect itself on but then often less pressure (ie. area) is required to achieve the same net result.

You can stop 60-0 in the same distance on a 10" rotor and a lot of piston area and pressure or you can do it on a 14" rotor with less area and pressure. Assuming the max deceleration is achieved at the point of lock up in both instances the with the same tire, same weight car, same surface the true differences are going to be reaction time and thermal capacity. Obviously the larger system works in a more efficient manner is all.

Big brakes shouldn't be touted as the end all of braking distance. We'll leave that to the tires which are producing the 'stick' on the road surface. What big brakes do offer is a lower duty cycle through improved efficiency, quicker reaction times, better modulation and usually superior choice of track duty (and often larger or thicker for longer life) pads over oe parts.

 

The hardest thing to learn in racing is how to brake properly. Ask any pro driver.

IMHO, your time and effort should be spent learning how to do that before spending money on a BBK. If you're not capable of repeatedly braking at the limit, lap after lap, and not overheating whatever brake system you have on the car, then a BBK is just a waste of money.

The stock brakes on any of the 350Z years will work on a race track with proper fluid, pads, lots of air to the rotors, and a driver who knows how to brake.

 

truf. I always brake too lightly so I get horrible vibrations over time. Its tough to control the car, brake right and transition into turn especially when you're still a new student.

 

ROFL, you have no idea how many people I have talked to AT track days that are convinced that pistons = stopping power. Even "experienced" members making commentary about 'science' are grossly misinformed.

If anything, a hugely overzealous multi-piston (see 8 or 12) setup w/ gigantic 15 plus inch rotors adds loads of unsprung weight to each corner. This combined with likely improper brake balancing and street tires usually equals LONGER braking distances.

And as stated the ultimate factor in stopping distance is TIRES...as the local genious david says, he was skidding to a stop w/ his new brakes...ie the limiting factor was the tires ability to handle the braking power. I've run fully heated Toyo R-888s with a 'small' BBK on a Lotus Exige and could lock them with no effort whatsoever.

Chances are unless you are building a true track car, BBKs are rather pointless for stopping distance, as there are many better ways to reduce it (lower weight, better tires, better suspension). Most people get them for looks. Now if you want less fade, its about proper heat management and BBK has characteristics that make them better for that as stated above.