Hi,

So, I'm going on another trackday and have decided to switch to a better brake fluid. However, I'm having problems on two fronts. One, the Motul "handbook" says the RBF 660 brake fluid doesn't work with magnesium cylinders and components...

And the guy at the Nissan dealer told me that my Brembos (Grand Touring) have magnesium in their caliper alloy. So? What do I do? Wouldn't the brake fluid attack/slowly corrode the calipers?

The second problem is... how do I bleed my brakes? There are 2 bleeders per caliper. Which ones to open, interior/exterior? What's the order?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Use Motul 600 - that's what is most commonly used here.

Check out this post...

https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...-vs-660-a.html


When you bleed, you do both screws (one at a time, inner then outer).

 

Motul 600 is almost the same as 660. It has the same notices on it. Including the magnesium warning. Also, I have read the other thread about using Motul with 350Z brakes. However, nobody mentions the magnesium warning. I'm still on the fence about it.

Regarding bleeding, thanks. I'll know what to do.

 

Conventional wisdom is bleed furthest from the brake master cylinder and inside, then outside. I've seen authoritative sources that contradict this though for other cars (e.g. Mitsu Evo), but not the reasons why. The conventional way does work and is safe, even for track use. Key thing is having a firm pedal in the end meaning no air trapped in the line.

 

Thanks for the help with the bleeding.

However, I'm still at a loss with the magnesium do or don't with the Brembos. I'm still on the fence whether to change with motul rbf 660 or not... I've reread the warning on the bottle and it states that it shouldn't be used with magnesium parts.... so... do the brembos really have magnesium in the caliper?

 

No need for 660 , 600 works great. 660 and one of the castrols were designed for people in limited classes on cars with tiny brakes. It may be needed on a Non-Brembo Z if you were racing it.

 

Motul 600 or even ATE Superblue has been more than sufficient for me w/ 1600F track pads (Hawk DTC60) and peak rotor temps estimated over the 1200F mark (i.e. I've overdriven 1000F pads in the past - brake fade, warped rotors). Have you given some of these a try already?

I'd skip the 660 because potentially damaging the Brembos or worse, having them catastrophically fail on the track down the road.

 

RBF600 should be more than enough~~

 

I'm guessing RBF600 would be simpler and no hassles, I was asking about the 660 because I can get it for free from a biker friend. He uses it in his racing bikes and has loads (I think he got some sort of sponsorship deal) of boxes of Motul stuff, but not the RBF600

I searched around and didn't find a spec that says the 660 shouldn't be used on cars. However, if hive-mind popular-350z-knowledge says "skip it", I will... just that it was free...