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SPC A-arm nut

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Old 11-25-2010, 02:56 AM
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JDMStanced
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Default SPC A-arm nut

Sorry for creating too many threads. i got too many questions in different topic to ask.lol
First of all, These spc A-arms were used for about 5000 miles and the alignment was done in Discount tire Center.
I tightened my *** to unbolt the top adjusting nut but it won't move at all. I did use a breaker bar but that thing is so dayuum tight. The stupid alignment guy probably didn't use a torque wrench and tighten the **** out of it. The reason i'm trying to remove is beeause i need to change the caster to 0.
Any tips on removing this? I sprayed PB so we'll see what happens tomorrow.

How do you guys manage to use a torque wrench on those nuts without removing the two bolts that hold the arm? The wrench is too big to fit under the fender.
Old 11-25-2010, 06:26 AM
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BoomerZ33
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that sucks my bolts weren't as tight as yours when i swapped my arms. if the bolt is just rusty try a hammer or chisel to chip away some of the rust. Or something a little extreme, try heating it up with a torch then freezing it. It should loosen up.
Old 11-25-2010, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BoomerZ33
that sucks my bolts weren't as tight as yours when i swapped my arms. if the bolt is just rusty try a hammer or chisel to chip away some of the rust. Or something a little extreme, try heating it up with a torch then freezing it. It should loosen up.
I goggled what torching is and it looks very extreme lol. It shouldn't be rusted because it's less than a year old in CA.
Would heat gun work instead? haha
Old 11-25-2010, 10:12 AM
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terrasmak
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Unbolt the lower shock bolt and allow you suspension to droop more, it will give you a much better angle on the nut. You probably have the shock body lowered to much.
Old 11-25-2010, 04:36 PM
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JDMStanced
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Unbolt the lower shock bolt and allow you suspension to droop more, it will give you a much better angle on the nut. You probably have the shock body lowered to much.
i disconnected the a arm with the coilover. It's so damn tight..still haven't got it
Old 11-25-2010, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 350zRiot
I goggled what torching is and it looks very extreme lol. It shouldn't be rusted because it's less than a year old in CA.
Would heat gun work instead? haha
lol true. forget the torch it's not like you're soldering pipes. the heatgun might work even tho it gives off less heat.
Old 11-26-2010, 04:01 AM
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1ROUGHNIGHT
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Same thing happened to me... do NOT use heat!!! It will cause the bolt to snap in half... you need air tools... once the nut is off your goN to need to chase it(rethread it). Its the only way to do it, trust me and good luck.
Old 11-27-2010, 03:18 AM
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i used PB blaster and WD40 but none of them worked..)
I can see my HF breaker bend so i couldn't go any harder.
Old 11-27-2010, 04:04 PM
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Here's my drop.
I'm going to raise the fron tjust a little and lower the rear just a little.
The reason is that i can't turn my steering fully cause the tires touch the fender.
Attached Thumbnails SPC A-arm nut-img_0636.jpg   SPC A-arm nut-img_0638.jpg  
Old 11-27-2010, 04:06 PM
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Does anyone know how i can use these or have used it? Do i have to have existing bumpstops?
Attached Thumbnails SPC A-arm nut-img_0641.jpg  
Old 11-30-2010, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zRiot
Does anyone know how i can use these or have used it? Do i have to have existing bumpstops?
According to SPC those are shock style spacers for your bump stop. They are provided because they are aware of clearance issues with the A-Arm they sell, in some cases it bottoms out inside the fender (example lowered 1.5" on soft springs) that causes a lot of peoples clunk sound (not their exact words but after talking with them and dealing with this problem thats the easiest way to explain it).
Old 11-30-2010, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Sn8keEyez
According to SPC those are shock style spacers for your bump stop. They are provided because they are aware of clearance issues with the A-Arm they sell, in some cases it bottoms out inside the fender (example lowered 1.5" on soft springs) that causes a lot of peoples clunk sound (not their exact words but after talking with them and dealing with this problem thats the easiest way to explain it).
could you show or tell me where our bump stops are?
Old 11-30-2010, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Sn8keEyez
According to SPC those are shock style spacers for your bump stop. They are provided because they are aware of clearance issues with the A-Arm they sell, in some cases it bottoms out inside the fender (example lowered 1.5" on soft springs) that causes a lot of peoples clunk sound (not their exact words but after talking with them and dealing with this problem thats the easiest way to explain it).
could you show or tell me where our bump stops are?
Old 11-30-2010, 10:19 AM
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On the shock shaft
Old 11-30-2010, 02:54 PM
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Sn8keEyez
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Those spacers go on the shaft between the body (main shock) and your bump stop. Heres some photo reference for you without the springs and dust boots. Photo 1: shows why you would need those spacers if you are getting a clunk(bottoming out) which is what happens on my setup at the point you see in the picture leaving space before bump stop engages, if not then I wouldnt worry about the time and effort to put them on as they are ONLY needed for this reason. Photo 2: shows custom spacers I had made which are higher quality but it was necessary as the shop I had install my A-Arms threw them away (the SPC spacers) plus they would not have been tall enough.

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/IMG_0006.jpg

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/IMG_0249.jpg

Last edited by Sn8keEyez; 11-30-2010 at 02:58 PM. Reason: info
Old 11-30-2010, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 350zRiot
The reason i'm trying to remove is beeause i need to change the caster to 0.
so you wanna change the "caster" to zero??? being that factory caster is 8.1 degrees, i doubt thats possible with the spc arms...??

I hate the spc arms...crap IMHO...

-J
Old 11-30-2010, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
so you wanna change the "caster" to zero??? being that factory caster is 8.1 degrees, i doubt thats possible with the spc arms...??

I hate the spc arms...crap IMHO...

-J
not the factory caster to 0. i meant 0 caster on the SPC arm. Last time i put installed, i shifted around the plate thing for more or less factory caster.
All shops are charging me $50~100 on top of the 4 wheel alignment because i have aftermarket, SPC, a arm -_-
Discount tire center wanted $300 for 3 yr alignment. What the heck. And they couldn't even get my car on the rack lol.

Last edited by JDMStanced; 11-30-2010 at 11:38 PM.
Old 11-30-2010, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Sn8keEyez
Those spacers go on the shaft between the body (main shock) and your bump stop. Heres some photo reference for you without the springs and dust boots. Photo 1: shows why you would need those spacers if you are getting a clunk(bottoming out) which is what happens on my setup at the point you see in the picture leaving space before bump stop engages, if not then I wouldnt worry about the time and effort to put them on as they are ONLY needed for this reason. Photo 2: shows custom spacers I had made which are higher quality but it was necessary as the shop I had install my A-Arms threw them away (the SPC spacers) plus they would not have been tall enough.

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/IMG_0006.jpg

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/IMG_0249.jpg
You mean where the black thing is squeezed in in the first pic?
Old 12-01-2010, 08:24 AM
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Sn8keEyez
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I dont think so, not at the very top. Here I redited the photo for you, the spacers would go in between the yellowish bump stop and cylinder portion of the shock. In between the two pieces inside the red circle in the link below. Again, if you are not getting a clunk or know for sure you are not bottoming out inside the fender with the A-Arm this is not needed. It will take you time to put those spacers on because you have to completely remove the shock or coilover if you have them and tear them down to where you only have the shock with no spring and no spring perch to be able to put those spacers on. The spacer slides down the shaft of the shock once you have them torn down and then you put in all back together. So basic steps would be: you get shock off car, you remove spring and spring perch, you slide bump stop off from shaft, slide on amount of spacers you think you need (equal on both sides of car), then slide bump stop back down on shaft on top of spacers, put spring and spring perch back together, and reinstall everything back on to car. A good amount of work and ONLY NEEDED IF YOU ARE BOTTOMING OUT ON THE A-ARM INTO THE FENDER, otherwise put them away if you want to save them in case you ever do. You can also check out this link: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-vs-spl-2.html, that talks about the clunking with some possible fixes from Jasonz with some additional photos. Other people have the problem on all brands of coilovers and some dont, also a few seem to have it with SPL arms also. But use the link or search for references to that

http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/a.../IMG_0006a.jpg

Last edited by Sn8keEyez; 12-01-2010 at 08:39 AM. Reason: info
Old 12-01-2010, 08:35 AM
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WHen i go down the dip and as i go up at pretty high speed, i hear LOUD clunk. It might be from the coilover but i'm not sure.
I'm really tired of adjusting the preload so many times to get to how i want it so adding the spacer won't happen soon I just wanted to know what and how the spacers are used.


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