preload or stiffer preload
02-28-2011, 04:28 PM
#1
preload or stiffer preload
heya! it's almost time to get an alignment done 
Last time the alignment was done, corner balancing was done also on my Stance gr+ TRUE type. I'm experiencing suspension travel shortage with SPC a arm.
Before the alignment, i'm thinking of going Single Exhaust, Kinetix a-arm and stiffer spring rate or stiffer preload.
i have some questions for you..sorry for too many questions.
1) After searching around forums, i came to conclusion that increasing more than 2k spring rate without getting shocks revalved is insufficient (causes the shocks to blow in future(?)) If this is true, my only choice would be increasing spring rates by 2k. How much difference would i feel with 2k increase? With the suspension travel shortage, would 2k have so much effect on rate that there will be significant less chance of hitting the wheel well?
Or
should i simply tighten up the preload about 1.5 inches more?
2) If i were to get stiffer springs, do you recommend getting both F&R 2k increase, or just the front? Stance gr+ true type has 12k front and 5k rear.
stiffer front spring rate is usually seen on most race cars, right?
3) About corner balance, would i need to get the corner balance done again after switching out my stock exhaust to single exhaust due to weight reduction?
4) Let's say i either change the spring rate with stiffer springs or tighten up the preload, would i need to get the the corner balance done even though i set up the height pretty close to where it originally was? I autoX so corner balancing is important but idk if little off on each corner is significant.
please answer my Qs as many as, and as informative as possible
Last time the alignment was done, corner balancing was done also on my Stance gr+ TRUE type. I'm experiencing suspension travel shortage with SPC a arm.
Before the alignment, i'm thinking of going Single Exhaust, Kinetix a-arm and stiffer spring rate or stiffer preload.
i have some questions for you..sorry for too many questions.
1) After searching around forums, i came to conclusion that increasing more than 2k spring rate without getting shocks revalved is insufficient (causes the shocks to blow in future(?)) If this is true, my only choice would be increasing spring rates by 2k. How much difference would i feel with 2k increase? With the suspension travel shortage, would 2k have so much effect on rate that there will be significant less chance of hitting the wheel well?
Or
should i simply tighten up the preload about 1.5 inches more?
2) If i were to get stiffer springs, do you recommend getting both F&R 2k increase, or just the front? Stance gr+ true type has 12k front and 5k rear.
stiffer front spring rate is usually seen on most race cars, right?
3) About corner balance, would i need to get the corner balance done again after switching out my stock exhaust to single exhaust due to weight reduction?
4) Let's say i either change the spring rate with stiffer springs or tighten up the preload, would i need to get the the corner balance done even though i set up the height pretty close to where it originally was? I autoX so corner balancing is important but idk if little off on each corner is significant.
please answer my Qs as many as, and as informative as possible
02-28-2011, 05:10 PM
#2
dude,
have you tried stiffing up the dampning?
And to be honest, if you want to be competitive, you need suspension travel. So that means you need to raise the car up have full movement of the suspension. Not a whole lot, just enough.
And to answer your question, if you mess with preload, you mess with ride height, so in turn you mess up your corner balance, and will need to redo it . d
have you tried stiffing up the dampning?
And to be honest, if you want to be competitive, you need suspension travel. So that means you need to raise the car up have full movement of the suspension. Not a whole lot, just enough.
And to answer your question, if you mess with preload, you mess with ride height, so in turn you mess up your corner balance, and will need to redo it . d
02-28-2011, 05:27 PM
#3
dude,
have you tried stiffing up the dampning?
And to be honest, if you want to be competitive, you need suspension travel. So that means you need to raise the car up have full movement of the suspension. Not a whole lot, just enough.
And to answer your question, if you mess with preload, you mess with ride height, so in turn you mess up your corner balance, and will need to redo it . d
have you tried stiffing up the dampning?
And to be honest, if you want to be competitive, you need suspension travel. So that means you need to raise the car up have full movement of the suspension. Not a whole lot, just enough.
And to answer your question, if you mess with preload, you mess with ride height, so in turn you mess up your corner balance, and will need to redo it . d
I hardly ever hit bumpstop on autox course unless there's sudden steepness change. The clunking from hitting the wheel well is very annoying while DD driving. I think that my spring rates are little soft because there's too much of diving forward action under hard braking.
That's why i asked, after i adjust the preload and adjust the height close to back to original height by turning the shock body, if i need to get the corner balance done again.
02-28-2011, 05:33 PM
#4
I dont think your spring rates are soft at all man, Im running 14f 12r , and i think there pretty hard,.
are you shocks preloaded now? or are they set to no preload.
And yes as soon as you move the suspension just a bit, your corner balance will be off again. Not be alot, but it wont be perfect like the way the shop set it.
and i cant comment on the annoyed feeling...
are you shocks preloaded now? or are they set to no preload.
And yes as soon as you move the suspension just a bit, your corner balance will be off again. Not be alot, but it wont be perfect like the way the shop set it.
and i cant comment on the annoyed feeling...
02-28-2011, 05:46 PM
#5
I took the car to where i got it corner balanced, West End. Darren adjusted preload and everything. He told me the preload was readjusted to where he felt by hand is right. No ruler was used to measure the spring length lol He knows what he's doing. I think they have enough preload to hold the springs in place.
I doubt i can feel the little difference..before i got the corner balanced done, and after he readjusted the preload, the corner balance machine thing was showing all three corners were balanced and last one was only off my little. (This was BEFORE he worked on balancing the corners. )
Annoyed feeling.......like you always have to watch out for little bumps or dips on the freeway. If you miss one, BAM! your teeth chatter, your boobies drop down hard and feel miserable.
Which a arms do you have again? your car is pretty low and weird that you can't feel me on clunking
I doubt i can feel the little difference..before i got the corner balanced done, and after he readjusted the preload, the corner balance machine thing was showing all three corners were balanced and last one was only off my little. (This was BEFORE he worked on balancing the corners. )
Annoyed feeling.......like you always have to watch out for little bumps or dips on the freeway. If you miss one, BAM! your teeth chatter, your boobies drop down hard and feel miserable.
Which a arms do you have again? your car is pretty low and weird that you can't feel me on clunking
Last edited by JDMStanced; 02-28-2011 at 05:48 PM.
02-28-2011, 07:16 PM
#7
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Raise your car, very simple. I'm running the same spring rates 12.4k front and 5k rear and i don't have problems. 0 preload in the rear and maybe 4mm up front.
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02-28-2011, 07:20 PM
#8
Let me get this straight.
You are losing suspension travel due to the SPC A-arm hitting the shock tower, correct?
Your solution is NOT to increase stiffness, but to eliminate the problematic component.
Using stiffer springs will wear out shocks due to heat generated from higher frequency of suspension movement. You can minimize this effect by turning up the setting. You do not necessairly need to get revalved dampers unless you are running out of damping at the maximum settings.
You are losing suspension travel due to the SPC A-arm hitting the shock tower, correct?
Your solution is NOT to increase stiffness, but to eliminate the problematic component.
Using stiffer springs will wear out shocks due to heat generated from higher frequency of suspension movement. You can minimize this effect by turning up the setting. You do not necessairly need to get revalved dampers unless you are running out of damping at the maximum settings.
02-28-2011, 07:54 PM
#9
Let me get this straight.
You are losing suspension travel due to the SPC A-arm hitting the shock tower, correct?
Your solution is NOT to increase stiffness, but to eliminate the problematic component.
Using stiffer springs will wear out shocks due to heat generated from higher frequency of suspension movement. You can minimize this effect by turning up the setting. You do not necessairly need to get revalved dampers unless you are running out of damping at the maximum settings.
You are losing suspension travel due to the SPC A-arm hitting the shock tower, correct?
Your solution is NOT to increase stiffness, but to eliminate the problematic component.
Using stiffer springs will wear out shocks due to heat generated from higher frequency of suspension movement. You can minimize this effect by turning up the setting. You do not necessairly need to get revalved dampers unless you are running out of damping at the maximum settings.
Is 2k increase in rate large to wear out shocks faster?
Last edited by JDMStanced; 02-28-2011 at 07:56 PM.
03-01-2011, 07:56 AM
#10
Funny how this seems to be a recurring theme from all you've talking with regarding handling. IMHO, in all your threads you're trying to apply band-aids to fix a more fundamental problem with your front suspension. Having driven your car at an autox your basic problem is not enough front suspension travel.
03-01-2011, 01:31 PM
#11
^^i thought about raising the car but it's not really something that i want to do. I'm not going full autox mode right now. the car has to look good for DD.
i think 12K front is not stiff for me anyways so adding up 2K would help with hiitting wheel well less times
i think 12K front is not stiff for me anyways so adding up 2K would help with hiitting wheel well less times
03-01-2011, 05:18 PM
#12
It is possible to have a slammed 350Z that also handles well with abundant compression travel.
- You would need reduce ride height from the lower coilover bracket to maximize compression travel. Most coilovers have the capability to provide adequate travel. People who do corner weighing generally don't fine tune suspension travel for you. You go in with a predetermined ride height, they adjust corner weight, you pay them and get out of the shop.
- Get rid of the SPC camber arms
- Reduce bumpsteer with roll adjusters and adjustable tie-rod ends.
I have driven a slammed G35 that has adequate compression travel to ride comfortably. The Z/G wheel well is HUGE and allows for slamming as long as the suspension allows for such travel.
- You would need reduce ride height from the lower coilover bracket to maximize compression travel. Most coilovers have the capability to provide adequate travel. People who do corner weighing generally don't fine tune suspension travel for you. You go in with a predetermined ride height, they adjust corner weight, you pay them and get out of the shop.
- Get rid of the SPC camber arms
- Reduce bumpsteer with roll adjusters and adjustable tie-rod ends.
I have driven a slammed G35 that has adequate compression travel to ride comfortably. The Z/G wheel well is HUGE and allows for slamming as long as the suspension allows for such travel.
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