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Replacing rotors @ 40k Miles

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Old 03-19-2011, 08:52 AM
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Patsfan83
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Default Replacing rotors @ 40k Miles

I did a search and didnt see anything that answers this question but I just went for an install on my pads and was told the front rotors would need to be replaced as well. They said they'll try to resurface the rotors but it will be unlikely they can. The brakes work very well I am just installing new pads because the current ones are pretty worn down and are OEM so I went with some after-market pads. Does it have anything to do with the new pads making different grooves in the rotors as opposed to the older one? Sorry I'm a complete brake noob and just want to know if its something thats mandatory. Thanks guys
Old 03-19-2011, 09:20 AM
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e30cabrio
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I have sub 10k EBC rotors for sale in the classifieds.

fyi.
Old 03-19-2011, 10:22 AM
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terrasmak
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40K on stock rotors, probably close to be needing replacement. Cheap and easy to do it yourself.
Old 03-19-2011, 02:10 PM
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davidv
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Turn used rotors or do not turn turn used rotors? The debate is as old as jesus. If the turn the rotors the new pads have a clean and flat surface to work with.
Old 03-19-2011, 02:45 PM
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dcains
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I wish I could find it, but I had a paper written by the SAE about turning rotors. They recommend that it's just about never needed, and often won't even fix a warped rotor. The conclusion was that uneven braking (pulsating pedal, for example) is the result of pad residue on the rotor. That residue actually improves performance, as long as it's even, and matches the compound of the brake pads. Burnishing/honing is often all that's required, and no metal is removed from the rotor in that process. I like to use EBC pads on all my cars, as the new pads come with an abrasive coating to remove all the old residue from the rotors. Another alternative is to temporarily install a set of racing pads and use those to clean the rotors before installing new pads in a street-driven car.
Old 03-19-2011, 05:54 PM
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lgear080
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New rotors sir.
Old 03-20-2011, 07:55 PM
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I work at a honda service dept, I have seen it every way from Sunday, turn rotors, not turning rotors, replacing rotors, etc. Many times up north here the rotors develop a rust lip on the outside and then start to flake the braking surface of the rotor off as a consequence. 40k is good for a set of rotors these days...My personal rule is forget turning its a waste of money, do I sell it, of course, people cheap out they do not want to buy anything new if they do not have to. My rule of thumb is 2 sets of pads to one set of rotors.

I would replace them. Also, I have been using ebay D+S rotors for years now on many cars and never had a problem with them, last set from alto motorsports I think, they were 170 for the whole set.

Last edited by joepro; 03-20-2011 at 07:56 PM.
Old 03-21-2011, 08:32 PM
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Patsfan83
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They ended up resurfacing the rotors despite telling me it was unlikely they could...I just wanted to make sure it was not one of those unnecessary things shops tell you that you need to do...I went with hawk pads they work very well I drove around the other day and they have a better initial bite than the oem and there is no more squealing but anyways thanks!
Old 03-22-2011, 02:40 PM
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power2rice
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late response but wanted to add that you should use a dial caliper to see if the rotors are in safe tolerances if in doubt. usually rotors last 3 sets of pads worn to about 80% each time. when you go way beyond the safe limit specs it doesn't affect the rotor.. it affects the caliper piston(s) by over extending. when they over extend due to combination of excessively worn pads they sometimes leak and thats when you lose braking.
Old 03-22-2011, 03:51 PM
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bjjbadboy
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i just order r1 drill/slotted rotors and pads off ebay think was like 200 shipped there are alot of other companys out there but heard good feed back about r1. seems all the rotors are from China and just depends on who cuts them etc...
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