Just installed hotchkis springs on my Z. I did the rears today and planned on doing my fronts tomorrow but the drop looks great and even now... can I leave it like that or is it bad to only do the rears? thanks in advance

 

I would also do the fronts.

 

I think the balance of different spring rates would really mess up handling something fierce. I'm thinking it would almost be dangerous, someone who knows a bit more may chime in. But thinking about it, it sounds bad.

 

Do the fronts. Drop the bad boy.

 

haha ok thanks guys. in the rear my passenger side has a 2.5 finger gap and my driver is at 1.5...will this level out? i have not driven it yet..

 

Do the fronts also, I was thinking the same thing when I got my GF210s, but once I put the fronts on the next day, 2x the difference. For the better.

And the gap issue.... are they brand new springs? If so, they take time to "settle" or "seat" or look freakin awesome.

But 2.5 fingers could be a BIG gap or a small one. how many american inches we talkin here?!

 

about 1.2inch passenger and .75 driver

 

hmmm, 1st thing i notice is.... You have tiny fingers!!! try moving the car in your driveway/garage... I know it might not be the case but your shocks could be a lil more worn from always having someone sitting on em... thats an extreme case but maybe? Id say give it a couple days, and if it doesnt change.. who cares? the better lookin side is on the driver's side!!!!

Jp, maybe the springs werent installed onto the spring mount 100% into their "seat" if the spring was twisted a bit it could give it a little more gap?

Both are unlikely, but idk what to tell you, Its not major, but I know how I am with my car.... Post pictures too!

 

I just put in some Hotckis springs...here's some food for thought. Yes you will have to roll your car once you pull it off the jack stands to get the wheels and suspension to settle. As far as alignment, the front was very close. No camber adjustment, so it is what it is unless you buy a camber kit. Mine was at -1.4. The front toe was within spec, but had it adjusted anyways. The back wheels needed the toe and the camber adjusted. With the eccentric bushings at 90 degrees rotated from the horizontal, you'll see -2.0 to -2.1 on the camber. That's the best you will get without a camber kit. I ended up with a tight two finger wheel to fender gap all the way around. Good Luck.

 

^ Mine came within stock specs, I didn't have any other mods except the springs and rims.

 

I can't get the fronts in! I have taken all the nuts and bolts off needed but the strut will not slide forward to be pulled down... do I need a spring compressor to get the spring out of my car?

 

you could use a spring compressor to get it out. Did you remove the cotter pin from the castle nut or did you remove the A-arms completely?

 

I removed the end link but that is all. I can't slide the fork forward to create space to wiggle it out

 

I had the same issue last weekend. I chose to remove the upper control arm via the two inner mounting bolts. You can move the top of the strut forward or back to gain access to the bolts assuming you have removed the three top mounting bolts. This will allow you more than enough room to remove the strut. I was told that the easiest way was to remove the upper suspension ball joint nut (and cotter key) and separate the joint. Your choice, but either way it works. Once the struts are out, use a 17mm socket wrench to initially loosen the the top retaining nut on the upper mount. Use your spring compressors to compress the spring until the tension is off the mount, and then finish removing the nut. You'll have to use an 8mm wrench to hold the strut shaft while you loosen and then remove the nut. When installing the new front springs, I was able to apply a little pressure and start the nut by hand without using the spring compressors. Tighten up the screw as much as you can using the 8mm wrench to hold the strut shaft and then finish torquing the nut with your 17mm socket. You may wish to torque this nut once it is mounted in the car. A lot easier than wrestling with it out of the car. You can also loosen the nut (one turn max, but don't remove) before you remove the strut. Good Luck.